Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Looking forward to seeing it go back together now! Always fun to see a project at this stage, especially when you know the builder has the ability, means, and ambition to follow it through to the end. 

Looks nice. Is there a reason you don’t want to put a 4l60e behind it and let the ecm control the transmission? Seem to make more sense to me then a 200 4R because you are going to have to fabricate something to make the tv cable work on a throttle body that never had anything like that? Just my 2 cents.

I was sure you could figure out the TV cable for me.

Isn't the 4L60E case larger and requiring some floor modifications? That is the primary reason.

Have not even considered that or compared ratio's.

I was pretty stuck on the 1996 LT-4 motor doe to the "look" and exact 40 year difference.

Looking for input.

Thanks!

Karl

Thanks for your input.

It is appreciated.

Tranny options included, manual, TREMEC TKX 5 speed.
GM 200R4, had not even considered 4L60E. Not sure why.

Thought was Biskwik would get a TKX with my 427 GM crate motor, eventually.
That feeds my need to shift.

Figured it may be simpler to deal with two (2) pedals in the 1956 LT-4 project.

Thus the Automatic preference.

Current status:
Decisions completed:
Modified Seamless 1956 Chevrolet frame with custom stub frame and all locations to accept Corvette C-4 suspension and steering. (sandblasted and epoxied)
(Builder says frame was actually a 55, but who is counting).
In stock, complete 1995 Corvette C-4 suspension, steering and complete rear Diffi and carrier. (Dana HD 3:42 ratio)
New arrival: 1996 LT-4 motor complete including harness, ECM exhaust manifold, Mass Air flow sensor Etc. 30000 mile unit, all front accessories, starter, flywheel and clutch.
Spare: Complete LT-1 motor, Exhaust system, wiring and body shell. Missing bell housing and multiple ZF transmission pieces. Has Intact coolers, etc.

Awaiting final decision: Tranny

What will work the best, and be easiest to install?

This is a 330 HP bone stock motor, could always be cammed up a bit. Rear differential gear is pretty well fixed, as is tire size.

Intended to be a cruiser, (grocery getter) Remember, When I was 21 I was fearless, at 71 fearful. 
Power and performance from 10 mph peaking at 80 mph.

Really only driven over 100 mph 3-4 times in my lifetime.

I do have a bunch of 4L60E trannys in my spare burbs, just need to change the tailhousings, beef up and build.

Bow Tie Overdrives does have a great site to muck around in.

Open to all ideas.

Karl

 

 

 

 

 

 

WELLLL, I could always go back to three pedals, TKX and hydraulic clutch, may be best match for motor and 3:42 rear gear.
Had a ZF 6 speed from factory.

Karl

Three pedals, (TKX) over $6,000.00 plus, still would prefer Auto.
4L60E (pre 97) had one piece main case, Bell housing included in case.
1997 and newer have 2 piece. Separate bellhousing.
Most everything else is the same.
Both have mechanical cable linkage for shifting.
Meet the drive by wire criteria.

Found a low mileage 1994 early (one piece) core to have built.
Has tranny mount location, (2WD) that works also.

Sooo, LT- 4 computer programmed for manual, can that be re-programmed for auto?
Plan on getting a custom harness to eliminate all extra wires not needed.

Thoughts on Computer?

Karl

THANKS CHRIS!!

Appreciate your vast knowledge and willingness to share.
This will be better project thanks to you.

Karl

96 Impala/Caprice/Roadmaster would be the ideal trans to use I think.
John Delke would know the ins/outs of making the mechanical speedo cable work.

more ambition than brains wrote:

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Thanks again!!!!
To All

Or, Maybe 4l60 out of 1996 Vette, change rear case and shaft?
Karl

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 You already have that trans. May be the most economical route.

67ss wrote:

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https://shiftworks.com/collections/tailhousings/products/1993-97-4l60e-tail-housing-kits

 

This is the tail housing kit needed to run both mechanical and electric speedos.

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 Same tail housing I used on my yellow Buick behind a 4L60E. It will move the tranny mount back about 3 inches if I remember correctly.  

more ambition than brains wrote:

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Derek used to have some 9C1 Caprices (Highway patrol) cars buried in the barn some time ago.
Guessing they are long ago parted out.

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Yeah, I haven't had any Caprices for at least 10 years, but my brother Carl still has a couple.

I think I do still have a core transmission out of a 93 Caprice (TBI 305 car, not LT1) I don't know if that will help you, as I think the 93 was not electronically controlled. If I remember correctly, I think 92 was the last year they called it a 700R-4, 93 changed to 4L60, and 94 became 4L60"E". 

If you want a "fun" torque converter, I still have the one that was in my Chevelle when I had LT1/4L60e.

Edge racing 3000rpm w/ lock-up. It was a pretty expensive one at the time, and I have no use for it anymore.

It may still provide a little creep at a stop. A "stall" converter will behave like any other under normal driving conditions. If you hit the throttle hard from a stop, the engine will overpower the converter until it hits the stall speed and then it will launch.

My '38 has a Grand National converter... 1,800-2,000 stall. I don't even notice it most of the time. If I mat the pedal, I notice it takes a bit to react then I wear out the tires a little. I had to learn the slight delay when I went to Bowling Green. It definitely added to the reaction time until I got the timing right for it to launch as the green came on.

Some Progress.

Ron, Roger and I were all playing this last week.

Mocking up suspension. Actually, went together VERY well.

We were warned some holes needed to be slightly re-sized, bushings are going to be replaced anyway.

Ordered Fuel Tank mount kit from fabricator.

Also, tank, pump filter and pressure regulator from Tanks Inc. in Iowa. 41-48 Chevrolet tank. 18 gallon.

Already here.

Some assembly pictures.

Now i have to put tools away

Karl

 

 

Nice progress Karl!
Good to hear Mitch, that you got back on the Camaro too.

Lookin' good. Keep at it and you can join Me and Bruce at back to the Fifties in the summer. Just throw the body on as-is and the patina crowd will love it...

Ordered Coilovers last Wednesday from Summit racing.
Arrived today. Summit was very efficient.
Did a "will call" at QA-1 Lakeville to purchase Spanners and spring thrust washers.
Now, another opportunity to wreck something.
Assemble and install.

Should be an adventure!

Karl

-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Monday 10th of January 2022 03:24:55 PM

And you even got a nice new Summit sticker for free too!
glad to see the build is continuing to move forward

Roughly assembled.
"Road tested" outside to make room for 4 post lift arrivals.

Current pictures of status, coming along.
Next focus on Fuel tank mountings and transmission crossmember/engine location.

That seems to be the case.

The fuel tank support is also above frame too.
Mounts just behind sway bar.
Kit came with cross bar and two upper straps; all will be welded to frame.
Spare tire well is going away also. 
Tank lower support straps bolt to welded front bracket and rear crossmember.
Went with 18 gallon tank.

I will post some pictures of tank bracket kit when I get closer.
Will rough fit and tack in place.
Both transmission crossmember and fuel tank mounts.

Will make sure drive train has correct angle to differential.
Aaaand, fuel tank clears everything.

Will set body to verify ALL clearances, including suspension, transmission and tank.
Lazlo says wheel housing pinch weld may need to ne notched a little to clear upper trailing arm.

Once all clearances are confirmed, fuel and brake line locations will be determined.

Then body can come back off and head for stripping.

Fun Stuff, thanks for the comments.

 

Karl

-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Friday 4th of February 2022 06:54:14 AM

My friend Roger came over last Wednesday, (before our Beer-30)
Goal was to assemble torque converter, flexplate, transmission into one complete package.
Also install motor mounts on block

Plan was to set in/on chassis and work toward establishing drivetrain angles and crossmember location.

Drivetrain is kind of sitting in there still need to tweak motor mounts to line up with brackets.

Some Pictures:

VROOM-VROOM...

Not ready for prime time crossmember.

Front mounts are in and through bolted.

Crossmember is attached.

Going to play a little more on actual crossmember, this one came in a pile of parts with the Basket case 56 from Iowa.

Still need to dig through my A-Body inventory, and/or look at pre-fabricated one.

Going to focus on fuel tank and mounting for that.

Another friend Greg L. fabricates race Cars, he is also consulting on this with Roger D.

Important part is driveline angle.

 

We will get there.

Having funnnnnn!

Karl

 

 

 

 

-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Thursday 14th of April 2022 09:02:55 PM

Greg Larsen finished up remodeled crossmember.
He is really busy during the short track racing season as he does a lot of fabricating and repairs.

Greg called in some favors and had a local fabrication shop build and Lazer cut plates.
Old plates were removed.
He cleaned everything up and welded everything together.

We can still shave a little off the ends of the rebuilt crossmember to allow some addition tolerance.
Fits nice and tight with material to spare for the "width "shave"

Now back to leveling drivetrain with rear differential.
Then mounting brackets can be welded in position.
Plan to leave a little room or shimming up if needed to achieve the angles we want.

Also, will fit and weld fuel tank mountings.

Still preparing for the season change so somewhat distracted now.
Will do another post for "Frosty Scap and Salvage"

Karl