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jim larson


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Repair to be done that was not expected.
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One screw assembly on front fender exposes a problem.  I got the spinning screw out, saw a possible rust issue, Checked  it out, all is good.  But I thought I should check the pass side, so removed the rocker molding on that side.  Need too take a step back and decide how to proceed.  Hope that most of the back brace is still there.



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 29th of August 2023 03:10:50 PM



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 29th of August 2023 05:00:22 PM



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 29th of August 2023 05:03:07 PM



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 29th of August 2023 05:05:12 PM



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 29th of August 2023 05:06:50 PM



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 29th of August 2023 05:09:02 PM

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Jim L

Lake City
more ambition than brains


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Unfortunately, after 57 years these cars always have multiple surprises.

Are you going to drive this or keep trying to make it younger?

1/4 seams look really good to rocker.

Rockers look decent which is good.

Convertibles have a three-piece rocker there is a stiffener inside inner and outer rockers.

That leaves two lower fenders and failed paint on door.

Perhaps reassemble left side, brush door (even though it will show) move to r/front fender.

No question, to do it correctly, remove fender, cut out affected area, clean rust remaining as well as possible and patch hole.

Remember, Cut out all rusted metal on outer fender, pretty difficult to weld rust. 

Finish with chemical filler and prime, keeping area as small as possible.

Blend refinish bottom of fender, keeping area as small as possible.

Worry less about perfect match and be happy hole is gone.

This is the lest intrusive approach and allows you to enjoy driving it.

ORRRRR, start trying to make it perfect all over and send it down the slippery slope of "Body Shop Jail"

Sorry you have to deal with this.

Karl



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BLyke


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Good summery of the two paths Karl from a man who knows.
Choose wisely Jim!

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Bruce L. - Lakeville MN

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dashboard


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Having slid down that slippery slope; accept Karl’s wisdom and patch the fender. Any but buts will lead to that slippery downhill slide. To quote a great philosopher “remember our projects should not out live us”.

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Kevin

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jim larson


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I think this is the only rust left on the car.  Just ordered a scope so I can check more throughly.  Fornately the fender brace looks good.  I plan to remove the fender with inner wheel well attached (once the  car is stored for the winter). Hoping I can get as much rust removed As possible. Then Weld in a patch, cut from a Sherman repair panel. Also replace the screw assembly’s that hold the inner wheel well attached.  Thanks for the suggested steps Karl.



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Jim L

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BLyke


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dashboard wrote:

Having slid down that slippery slope; accept Karl’s wisdom and patch the fender. Any but buts will lead to that slippery downhill slide. To quote a great philosopher “remember our projects should not out live us”.

Well said!



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Bruce L. - Lakeville MN

1971 Malibu Convert

 
Lost in the 60s


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I hate that quote... doh

 

?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse1.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
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"I hate that quote... "

well, perhaps you prefer this one instead; "If you keep on doing it, you can keep on doing it."

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Bruce L. - Lakeville MN

1971 Malibu Convert

 
Lost in the 60s


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BLyke wrote:
"If you keep on doing it, you can keep on doing it."

 Are we still talking about cars here.. laughing



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
jim larson


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That well the top being just about down lead me to new discovery.  With the convertible top down, you can see inside be tween the rear quarter panel from the door back to the wheel house.  Happy to report no rust, but lots of dust and dirt.  With the rear seat out and rear window glass removed, I think I will be able to suck most of that up.  Cleanup to be done after re-paint.  Nice cartoon character  Mitch.



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Jim L

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more ambition than brains


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I could be mistaken however, i believe it is possible to remove fender and NOT pull wheelhouse.

Remove battery and tray for access.

Three bolts at cowl upper, one lower. lower has replaceable fold over nut.

Pull battery tray for EZ access to the last two or three wheelhouse fasteners.

I think ALL wheel house fasteners are fold over nuts.

Drop bumper, remove headlamp door and extension.

Only four or five left at core support upper grille bar and lower grille panel. There are welded nuts in fender for core support, upper and lower grille panels.

Might be easier to remove painted lower grille filler.

This is all based on hood and ultimately hood hinge is removed.

Wheelhouse left on fender just adds weight and makes things clumsier.

Would be happy to scoot down for a couple of hours and assist in pulling fender.

Just need to work out a time.

Karl

Good luck!

Karl

 



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jim larson


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Hey thanks much for the offer to help Karl.  I’ve been looking for storage for the red SS this morning.  Planing to put it away for the winter Around Nov 1st.  So I have more room in the garage.  If some time after Nov 1st is good I would appreciate your help.  And with your eyes on the area to be repair, you can help me on how to proceed.  Again thanks.



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Jim L

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No Problem, glad to help.

Majority of the Treasure Chest project should be very complete by then.

All exterior projects at the house (Siding, Painting, stain Stucco) are wrapped up and inspections are also handled.

The Six rooms inside house that were significantly affected by ice dam water damage are on the home stretch.

One minor project left at home to fix a very poor roof design that caused the damage.

SOOO, by November ALL major endeavors at home and the TC will be resolved.

Back to focusing on Cars!nana

 

Perhaps once the fender is off, we can make it a Club Project to clean it up and patch at the now expanded Treasure Chest.beers

I do not expect to have fenders on the B-Block Elky yet, easy to verify fit if needed.

Karl

 

 

 

 



-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Friday 1st of September 2023 09:16:23 AM

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More ambition than brains,

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jim larson


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Boy do you Get stuff accomplished.  The offer to make the TC available for a club event would be fantastic.  Not sure just; but I think we would be going to visit our daughter and family in Kentucky on the 21st.  Let’s hope the Twin do well in Texas and Cleveland over the nest few days.

 

I see restoration parts now is making a lower fender patch.

 



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Jim L

Lake City
jim larson


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Trying fo find the AMD patch panel, doesn’t appear they make one.  A lot the regulars venders make one under their brand name like Jegs, etc for $50.  Resto parts makes one for $93 with expected shipping.  Thing I should order sorting sooner rather than later.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/opg-0ch204rh



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Jim L

Lake City
Lost in the 60s


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AMD never did make the patch they sold and since they are hard to get and unpredictable, it seems they have discontinued offering them. I sent you the link to a Dynacorn panel that is a very good part.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
jim larson


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Lost in the 60s wrote:

AMD never did make the patch they sold and since they are hard to get and unpredictable, it seems they have discontinued offering them. I sent you the link to a Dynacorn panel that is a very good part.

 Patch panel ordered, due to ship shortly. I have been watching lower fender patch panel repair videos. Time to start practice Welding techniques. Any recommendations for an argon gas manifold? 



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Jim L

Lake City
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