Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

cooz65 · Webmaster

Leaking Radiator

67ss · 1K+ Club

You should be able to take the radiator out and clean up the spot and solder it with a propane torch to seal up the hole. Google search will show you how to do it. Otherwise aluminum replacement from auto city classics I think is around $200.

Jon H · 1K+ Club

There are several radiator shops around, I have used the one in old downtown New Brighton. I don't recall the cost but they cleaned mine and soldered up some leaks. A phone call should determine costs.

Larry Lucast · Active Member

If it punctured that easily, it must be pretty weak. There is a shop in Anoka, on Main St., that can re-core yours if you want originality. Otherwise I agree with Chris. Auto City Classics is about $200.00, and they have electric fans that are made to fit their radiators.

cooz65 · Webmaster

Larry that was my thought as well. Seems a little concerning that if it could crack that easily, what else might crack it. The radiator is not original to the car. I got it for free from a guy a number of years back so I'm not real concerned about the originality of it. I might try and see if I can solder it shut for now to get by, but I did some looking on Auto City Classics and I do like what they to offer and their prices seem reasonable. I do like the thought of being able to remove the mechanical fan and just run the electric.

https://www.autocityclassic.com/chevelle/monte-carlo/1964-1965-chevelle-malibu-and-el-camino-radiator-with-dual-fans-and-shroud-sl-128-a-at-f/

hkgmillette · President

I believe that Auto City will also give you a 10% discount if you say you are with NSC

Lost in the 60s · President

hkgmillette wrote:
I believe that Auto City will also give you a 10% discount if you say you are with NSC

Talk to Denny, he is the person most likely to give you a break on cost.

I had the same thought as Larry, if it punctured that easily, it's time to replace or re-core. Maybe call a couple shops about re-coring first, to compare.

SShink · 3K+ Club

I paid $180 for mine from Denny at ACC. He knows me well and I believe that includes the discount for the club. It cools really well, and I'm running the trans fluid through it for the cooler and hardly ever gets over 180 degrees.

bowtie · Secretary

Denny is the Chevelle guy at auto city. Anyone else will probably have you talk to him anyway.

Chris R · 2K+ Club

Ive always dealt with Mike there since ive been shopping there in the 90s. He was kind of the pre 67 guy there & had a nice 66 convert. Not sure if he still has it.

cooz65 · Webmaster

I ended up going with the radiator and electric fans from ACC and had a nice talk with Denny. He definitely knew a handful of members from the club. I didn't ask who's it was but there was an old 66 4 door Chevelle in their lot. I enjoy seeing the family 4 doors, just something a little different about them.

Chris P helped me spend some $ and had me go with a controller from Dakota Digital to control when the fans come on. That'll be in the mail today and the install of that looks to be pretty straightforward. I've started doing some reading and everyone seems to have a different opinion, but where will be the best place to put the temp. sensor for the controller. Some guys say the t-stat housing is fine, some say the head, and some say the block. I know the temps will vary depending on where it's put, but will they vary enough to fully matter.

Lost in the 60s · President

You'll like the Dakota controller, very programmable. Head temps are always the highest and will run the fans more often than I feel is necessary. I have mine on the T-stat housing, which I feel is a more average temp for the engine. Make certain they turn off about 10 degrees above stat rating, or they may never turn off.

hkgmillette · President

I have mine in the intake, right next to the t-stat housing.

Larry Lucast · Active Member

I put mine in the manifold, near the thermostat housing.

Chris S · Active Member

I put my temp sensor in the head because I had no place on the stock intake for it. I also have the Dakota Digital controller, it was well worth the money for the adjustability.it also can turn the fans on when you turn on the air conditioner!

AK · Active Member

I had a pretty good experience working with ACC for my new radiator / fan setup

SShink · 3K+ Club

Funny this came up. I bought one from ACC for the Malibu exactly one year ago today, and actually pulled it this morning since I had a slow leak from somewhere but couldn't find it. I pressure tested the system and it would only go up to 9-10 psi then wouldn't hold any pressure and leaked down.

I found a big stain on the front after I pulled it that appears to be where some fins are leaking. No damage in that area, so looks like a mfg defect. A quick trip to ACC and they replaced it no charge since it has a lifetime warranty, and an hour later the new one was in and idling inside the garage with the hood closed at a rock solid 180 degrees.

Larry Lucast · Active Member

I have bought radiators, glass, brake parts, and more, and always left completely satisfied. They go the extra mile.

deyllan · Member

Got mine from ACC also and I was very happy with their service.

AK · Active Member

Funny timing but twice in the last week my temperature has gone way high to the point that I had to pull over and let her cool down.

Double checked both fuses and brief inspection of all the wiring and didn't see any obvious issues

I have been able to trip the fan by grounding the temperature wire and it seems to be functioning with the key on.
I replace the thermostat tonight just for a quick fix. I may ask if you guys could take a look at it this weekend or I may need to look into the digital controller

hkgmillette · President

What temp stat did you install? It is a good idea to replace it after it got hot, from before.

-- Edited by hkgmillette on Thursday 18th of July 2019 07:14:28 AM

cooz65 · Webmaster

Andrew, I've got mine all wired up with the DD controller and have been really impressed. The wiring and programming was really pretty straightforward.

One thing that I have noticed so far with having electric fans is the engine seems to heat up faster at say 30mph or under. With having that big shroud on the back side, it's like it traps all the air in the radiator and nothing can flow through until the fans kick on and it just doesn't cool as efficiently as the mechanical fan and all the air being able to flow at those speeds. Same thing, that once I get up to cruising speed, it takes a little longer for the engine to come back down to temp, there just doesn't seem to be as much air flow. I think I'm going to set my "on" point a little lower for this weekend so the engine doesn't get too hot and the fans then have to work overtime to bring the temp back down. Overall though the fans definitely do help.

Lost in the 60s · President

Steve, those fans should free wheel at 30 mph and NOT restrict air flow. Do you have them installed as pullers, or pushers ?

AK · Active Member

I dropped in a 180 stat which is what was in there, but I also picked up a 160.

It seemed to be working better earlier in the summer and again like I said I drove it when it was fairly hot outside but the temperature approached 240.

The fans don't seem to be kicking on when I turn off the engine I thought it was set up to assist with that as well.

Anyways it's going to be cool enough on Saturday and Sunday I shouldn't have a problem. I more than likely will not take it down tomorrow in afternoon to pick up my registration, but I'll swing into the show.

And... sorry ..not trying to take over the thread