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Post Info TOPIC: Where do I get upper control arm bolts????


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Where do I get upper control arm bolts????
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I am looking for a business in town that I can get some upper control arm bolts in the next few days. I have checked Friendly Chevy, Napa, Johns, O Rielly, TNT. Any other ideas where to get some. The bolts I am refering to are the splined ones that kinda look like wheel studs that go in the frame to hold upper A Arms on.( 7/16")  Everybody has the computer thing going so they want to look it up that way.

I have not tried somewhere like a alignment shop yet. Any other ideas??

 

Brad



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If its for the 57. The only place I can think of that would have it is Auto City Classic. They deal with a lot of tri-five stuff too.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

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Those might be tough... an alignment shop may be the best bet. If that fails, try Fastenal - they'll probably have a 7/16" fine bolt in the length needed, but it will be a bolt... no splines on the shoulder.

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

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You won't get them in the next few days but Danchuk has a front end fastener kit with the 4 serrated bolts.

http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=1033&ReturnUrl=Danchuk1.aspx?Category=9dad7785-23d8-4adf-9f2b-d6938db8eedd

1033_m.jpg



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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Just make sure they're not from the "Lei Uew Wa King" distributor cap/and critical bolt company...

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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just you try twin city rod and custom? maybe have it they have alot



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frank s---st paul

64' chevelle--37' chevy coupe



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Frank, where is Twin City Rod and Custom? I am hoping to find local. I have never heard of them?

I have found the bolts on Ebay and on Danchuk. Thank you for the suggestions guys

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TC Rod & Custom is down in Newport, a little south of 494, on Hwy 61, about 200' north of Tinucci's restaurant. They're tucked in a little strip of businesses, at the extreme north end of the building.

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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S&S industrial supply on hwy 65 in east bethel would have the bolts. They will most likely will not have the splines but that is really not needed for those bolts.



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Chris P
East Central, Mn

66 Chevelle 300 deluxe



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67ss wrote:

S&S industrial supply on hwy 65 in east bethel would have the bolts. They will most likely will not have the splines but that is really not needed for those bolts.


No splines makes alignment a real PITA. Once everything is assembled, it's not easy to get a socket in there to hold the bolt while turning the nut to add/remove shims. He could pull them tight with a nut and then tack weld the bolts.

If you can find a spec on them, they may be the same for a million cars. I have a few here. I know a couple were loose in my Chevelle and I used some that I removed from my GTO frame before I scrapped it.

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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edstwincityrodandcustom.com located in newport

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frank s---st paul

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frank wrote:

www.edstwincityrodandcustom.com   located in newport


 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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frank wrote:

edstwincityrodandcustom.com located in newport


 www.edstwincityrodandcustom.com might have it. Although im not sure what they have for a stock replacement part like that.

If the Corvette has the same bolts, Larry might also have them.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

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Always, always, always, tack weld the upper control arm studs in place.
No worries about spinning or falling out.

Karl

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:hurray:Found some bolts that will work great for the A arms. They are actually wheel studs. Found a place that had a catalog I could look at with dimensions of the bolts.



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I was thinking a wheel stud might work but without  any dimensions, I couldn't suggest any particular one. Do they grip tight so the nut can be turned for alignment ? You DO have crimp lock nuts on them, right ?



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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Brad. I would still weld a tack on them.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

Sincerly,

The opportunist.



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THe studs went in hard. I had to draw them in with impact as the frame was to light to hit in with just a hammer. They do not spin at all. I just have normal nuts on them now and do plan on getting the pinched style for them on one of my many bolt and nut runs.
Go to a Red Rooster store if anybody ever needs to find something like this.



-- Edited by bwild70ss396 on Sunday 12th of June 2011 06:59:43 AM



-- Edited by bwild70ss396 on Sunday 12th of June 2011 07:00:51 AM

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bwild70ss396 wrote:

THe studs went in hard. I had to draw them in with impact as the frame was to light to hit in with just a hammer. They do not spin at all. I just have normal nuts on them now and do plan on getting the pinched style for them on one of my many bolt and nut runs.
Go to a Red Rooster store if anybody ever needs to find something like this.



-- Edited by bwild70ss396 on Sunday 12th of June 2011 06:59:43 AM



-- Edited by bwild70ss396 on Sunday 12th of June 2011 07:00:51 AM


I doubt they will go anywhere. The factory bolts weren't that tight with no welding and stayed put for 53 years....thumbsup

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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Factory bolts had a hex head so you could hold them with a wrench if they spun... those, I'd tack weld.

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Derek Kiefer - Mantorville, MN

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My Business Partner did front end work for almost 20 years. He agrees on the tack weld.

Huge PITA if they ever spin!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why take the chance?

Karl

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