Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Hmm, this was about 6 or 7 years ago, but if you took a stock stat and removed the centrer section so only the outer disc remained it was a little more restricted (smaller id) than that. The only reason why I did that was because we had the restrictors on the shelf and no stats. I don't know if it is a big block thing or due to this, but IIRC it did take a while for it to get to operating temp.

I am definetley a firm beilever in an OE type cooling system though. Even though I am not running a big block anymore I picked up a brand new radiator for my car today that is for a 72' with a big block for about $90. I do go a little crazy sometimes though, I will buy the straight coolant from an autoparts store, but mix it with DI water from work and not tap water.

SShink wrote:

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Since my engine and entire cooling system is starting out dry for the re-install, I will probably mix DI water with the anti-freeze to keep tap water contaminants out of the system too.

 

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Can't go wrong with the DI.  We have a DI water system at work so I fill up a pail there.

 

Looks good. It feels good to, to finally put it back in place...

Bungy L-76 wrote:

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Even though I got there too late to help out (that darn job of mine is always getting in the way of my fun) I apperitiate the food and had a good time hanging out and BS'n in the warm sun.

Stan, Now you have to change your signature and get rid of the TH400

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 Steve, it was good to see you and Pushrod (and friends) as well. 

Sig has been updated.  Thanks for the reminder.  I started this project in Nov. and forgot I had changed the sig then! 

Now it's back to the cave to get some work done.  Hope to drive it to the meeting in 2 weeks! 

 

 

That was a good time. I think the only paint that got scuffed was a spot on the pan and the steering shaft. Pretty easy considering 800 lbs. of dead weight sliding in on an angle without "dinging" anything.

(Whaddya think of the moniker "Transpad"?  ... we've all done something similar...)

I agree with Chris about that stuff being leak prone. I would run the copper instead of the nylon especially if it is a mechanical gauge. It would really suck if the gauge side leaked oil inside the car...

Calm down guys... the line hasn't even been routed yet.  It was just shoved up to get it out of the way as I took the pic after I installed the fittings..  The pic was just to show how clever I thought I was figuring out how to run the fittings...

I've used nylon line for over 25 years and not had a problem.  As long as it is routed well away from pinch points, abrasion areas, and heat, it's fine.

Kevin, and to make you even more nervous, my green Chevelle that you followed last summer had nylon oil line AND headers to melt it with! 

Derek69SS wrote:

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Nylon is nice that it doesn't transfer noise into the car, but the NHRA doesn't allow it if you want to drag race. :)

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 Ok, ok.  So where does one purchase this small copper line that you speak of?  O'Reilly's?

 

It would really suck if the gauge side leaked oil inside the car...

 

I did that once.  My first time putting in gauges and pinched the hose with the little brass fitting on the back of the guage.  A '79 malibu dash will hold amost a quart of oil before it runs on your shoes.

 

 

I was trying to remember who in the club said they had good luck with the nylon line. If it works for you. By all means. If you keep it secure enough, I could see it lasting a long time actually.

If you do decide to get copper line. Make sure to get the barrel shaped ferrules as well. I got the auto meter kit when I did mine and it came with the fittings for it. Im pretty sure any parts store has this kit in thier performance section. Or even CA Performance would also have it. You may be able to use the old fittings from the nylon tube but sometimes the ferrule compression fitting is smooshed too much to be re-used again.

frank wrote:

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just wondering is that 1/8 inside or outside diameter?

 

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  I think it's 1/8" OD.  I ordered the tubing from O'Reilly's and will pick it up tonight.

I am pretty sure the line I installed was a copper plated steel line. Got it from Paragon a corvette vender. Engine bay looks nice. Looks like you installed a new brake booster and maybe master cylinder.

jim larson wrote:

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Engine bay looks nice. Looks like you installed a new brake booster and maybe master cylinder.

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 Thanks Jim. 

Nope, I cleaned up and rattle canned the booster to get by until next year.  I'll remove the booster, clean it up, and use the Eastwood kit to make it look like it was plated again.  Gotta have something to do next winter! 

 

frank wrote:

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just wondering is that 1/8 inside or outside diameter?

 

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 Tubing is alway measured by OD.  Pipe is a nominal dimension. Hose is by ID.

 

SShink wrote:

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jim larson wrote:

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Engine bay looks nice. Looks like you installed a new brake booster and maybe master cylinder.

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 Thanks Jim. 

Nope, I cleaned up and rattle canned the booster to get by until next year.  I'll remove the booster, clean it up, and use the Eastwood kit to make it look like it was plated again.  Gotta have something to do next winter! 

 

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 I've been checking around about plating.  Looks like a few options.    Not sure what was all plated besides from front cover.

I used the Eastwood kit.  Kind of expensive at around $60 plus shipping.  And don't spill any brake fluid or .  I think replating is the way to go.

 

Tim H wrote:

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I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100

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 That sounds like the ticket.  It's new, so no worries about a 40 year old diaphragm going bad.  And the Eastwood kit is over half the cost and that isn't with any of my labor in cleaning up the old one!

 

Made some steps forward and a couple backward this weekend.

First, everyone can sleep at night as the nylon oil pressure gauge line is now copper!

Got the 200-4R all connected and the new Shiftworks plate installed in the shifter.  Here's the shifter with the all important 'OD' position:

Here's a shot of the linkage (I still need to find the pivot ball for the back drive linkage that moves the column collar for the reverse and neutral safety switches):

Now here's where the steps forward went backwards today.  I installed the down pipes and connectors to the existing exhaust. 

Then I realized the X pipe was too far forward now that I moved the trans cross member further to the rear of the car and it hit.  Arrrrrgh.  So, I pulled out the down pipes and X pipe assembly and I'll be stopping off at Midas tomorrow to have them make the adjustments.  I've had a couple of people suggest putting in flanges on both ends of the X pipes so that I can drop it down anytime.

The other step forward/backward was hooking up the TV cable and adjusting it.  I think I have the cable adjusted correctly at the carb, but the TV plunger on the trans is depressed about 1/8" and I think it is not supposed to be depressed at all.  So, another call to John at Master Trans tomorrow to see what needs to be done, or tow it over to his shop after the exhaust is back in (it's less than a 1/2 mile from my house).  It's always something. 

Otherwise, it's got fluids in, the batteries charged, and it's ready to go other than the trans and exhaust challenges.

I had hoped to drive it to the meeting next weekend, and will still probably be able to.  But, I looked at the weather for Sat. and it says snow and rain!  Uckkkkk.

 

 

 

 

Chris R wrote:

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Stan. If you dont know the guys where your bringing your car to very well. DO NOT just drop off the car and pick it up later. Especially if its a Midas shop. I highly recommend bringing it to them and waiting for it. I would also highly consider riding along with them on the test drive.

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Chris, maybe I confused you with my post.  I took the exhaust parts off the car and will drop the parts off at Midas once I explain what I want done.

The towing was referring to getting it over to Master Trans who I trust 100 percent.

 

Chris R wrote:

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 Your garage walls need more car and of course girlie pictures.

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 I thought I contributed to that 'fund' Stan? LOL!!

SShink wrote:

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Tim H wrote:

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I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100

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 That sounds like the ticket.  It's new, so no worries about a 40 year old diaphragm going bad.  And the Eastwood kit is over half the cost and that isn't with any of my labor in cleaning up the old one!

 

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 I've heard most of the Delco stamps are incorrect, for example original  64-66 Delco booster did not have a stamp like the reproduction.  Later delco boosters had a stamp; but it was upside down, unlike the originals.   If not concerned about the originals then the reproductions are the way to go.  Inline tube, the right stuff, or other vendors.

 

jim larson wrote:

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SShink wrote:

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Tim H wrote:

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I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100

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 That sounds like the ticket.  It's new, so no worries about a 40 year old diaphragm going bad.  And the Eastwood kit is over half the cost and that isn't with any of my labor in cleaning up the old one!

 

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 I've heard most of the Delco stamps are incorrect, for example original  64-66 Delco booster did not have a stamp like the reproduction.  Later delco boosters had a stamp; but it was upside down, unlike the originals.   If not concerned about the originals then the reproductions are the way to go.  Inline tube, the right stuff, or other vendors.

 

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 The one I put in the 67 Camaro yesterday is not stamped. The original one I took out of the 70 El Camino is stamped but it is upside up on the stamp as is the last two  I put in the Chevelles this year. I guess I've been lucky and haven't had an upside down one yet.  I bought new ones because of the diaphram and the look of the new ones. There are places you can send your old one to be rebuilt and plated.  We did that on the 69 Charger a couple of years ago. I just keep throwing the old ones away if anyone wants them they can have them.

We painted Rick's last year on the car in a couple of minutes it came out ok.

 

-- Edited by Tim H on Monday 11th of April 2011 09:35:46 PM

-- Edited by Tim H on Monday 11th of April 2011 09:38:10 PM

Picked up the modified exhaust after work and installed.  MAN I'm glad I don't do exhaust work for a living!  It's the most frustrating thing lying on your back and having the parts fight you ALL the way!!!

And...............IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

 

Click on the picture below for a video:

Dashboard stopped over and gave me the QA check, and I passed.  So, we disconnected the disty voltage, cranked it a few times to get gas into the carb, hooked up the disty voltage and she popped right off.  I'm SOOOO glad I did the dyno!

It sounds great and is so quiet from the engine all the way back to the tailpipes until you turn the corner, and it sounds mean!

It even moved under it's own power.  Well, a foot forward and a little back when I tried reverse and drive.

So now I have to wait for a nice day to go for a quick test drive then take it over to Master Trans to check out the trans.

So far so good!

-- Edited by SShink on Tuesday 12th of April 2011 08:00:16 PM

Tony Hoffer wrote:

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On the thermostat thing.. I wouldnt run the restrictor disks.. Just get a good quality thermostat and drill two 1/8" holes in it..

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 I ended up putting in a 180 degree thermostat instead of the restrictors since I do drive as early as possible in the Spring and as late as possible in the Fall, so I do need floor heat.

Tonight in the garage with very little air flow, it was staying right at 180 to 190 degrees.

 

-- Edited by SShink on Tuesday 12th of April 2011 08:32:23 PM

Thats what im talking about. Should be a fun first drive of the season.