Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Thanks John.   I think the plate that goes between the fuel pump and the block may not be sealed up the best.  I think I should clean that up and re-install.  Is it possible for oil to run down the push rod and cause a minor leak In this area?

When you brought the car to my house right after you got the engine installed and running, there was a leak at the fuel pump mounting that I identified, was it ever fixed? I don't recall for sure but I think the leak was the plate mounting gasket. So if you do find that it is the pump mounting and not not the short 3/8 bolt as John suggested, I would replace both gaskets as it is easy to do the plate gasket once the pump is off. 

Well I took the fuel pump and plate off.  It appears there may have been a leak at the bottom of the plate.  Gasket looks like a cheap very thin gasket. Wounder where you can get the best?  Maybe a very thin coat of RTV.  Appears re-builder put the gasket on then the two lower bolts but did use anything to fasten the top 2 fuel pump bolts and then painted the plate/block, probably figuring the gasket would seal when installing the pump.  He also did not put any sealant on the side bolt John mentioned.

How good is this gasket. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314415062882. 

-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of March 2024 05:44:04 PM

The grey gasket material left on the plate appears to be Fel-Pro and is a good gasket. Should be able to get them at most any auto parts store. If you have a flat piece of metal laying around, hold a sheet of 220 grit wet or dry paper on it and sand both sides of the plate a little to see how flat it is. If it's close, sand more to get it better. Then clean it with alcohol or acetone before installing. The pic is the ONLY gasket sealer I use on anything with oil in it anymore. Again, available at most auto parts stores. I don't know if high temp is designed to withstand oil.

The surfaces of the block and plate need to be cleaned with alcohol or acetone and dry before you apply the sealer. My suggested method would be to have 4 short bolts for the plate ready and once you install the plate, snug those 4 bolts down and let it sit overnight. Make certain the pump flange is super clean with alcohol or acetone too and install that the next day. You only need a very thin film of the sealer to have it work properly. I would let that sit for a few hours too, to let the rtv set up well. You can switch out the rod holding bolt for a shorter one with a Little sealer on clean threads at this time...  ;)

As a PS, before you install the plate, have Rachael BUMP the starter while you put pressure on the pump rod. You'll feel when it gets as far in the engine as it goes on the flat area of the cam and then snug it down with the jamb bolt. This is the least amount of spring pressure you'll have to deal with while installing the pump. If you attempt to install the pump with the rod extended on the cam, you will have a heck of a fight to push the pump against the plate to start the bolts.

Did you order the Ultra Black sealer too ?
That "scratch" looks more like something struck it and bent the plate. I can see the sanding hasn't touched the plate across the entire bottom, inline with the holes. The other side supports that theory. I see sanding across the bottom and at the slot hole, but not much between on the paint.
What grit paper are you using to sand ? Only sand lengthwise and don't use water. Use the paper dry. The slight texture the sand paper leaves will actually help the gasket seat and seal. It's easier to see where the high and low areas are on the metal too. If that plate is bent, it will need to be filed/sanded flat, tapped flat or replaced.
We aren't ready to talk about paint yet.
Yes, to positioning and holding the pump rod before you install the plate.

You did fine pushing the rod up, but it may be on the cam to push the arm on the fuel pump. How much did the pump push back on the bolts as you removed it ? It's entirely possible it's OK where it is, but it won't hurt to check it by turning the engine over and feeling the travel by hand.
220 dry is good. Put some pressure on the plate to get the grit to dig in, we want to see the pattern.
I don't trust paint under a gasket not to break down over time and leak. To paint the plate, I cover the area where the pump goes with blue masking tape, except the pump arm hole, lightly bolt the pump on the plate using short bolts/nuts and then cut the tape around the pump with a sharp razor blade. Remove the pump and excess tape and paint.