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Post Info TOPIC: Starter teeth not engaging flexplate teeth


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Starter teeth not engaging flexplate teeth
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Issue just resurfaced again,  either starter, flexplate, or that mysterious block machine issue from early 70.  Just found out something supposedly about gm using a starter from a 250 or 292 6cyl with the 168 flexplate and using @ starter with the staggered bolt pattern.  Supposedly this starter has a larger shaft and moves the teeth closer to the flexplate.  Used mainly on fleet vehicles. I am at my wits end, so may try anything.  My mechanic friend has suggested machining the nose.

I wonder how far the teeth of the starter should engage the flexplate teeth as it looks like they only go in about 5/16” or just over 1/2 the width of the flexplate teeth.  These are original Delco starters from the 60’s for the 168 tooth flexplate,  not some aftermarket stuff.  banghead



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Jim L

Lake City



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This starter is suppose to do the trick; but who knows. Original Delco # 1107353. Starter shaft is suppose to be larger than Chevy 350 starter and overall diameter of gear larger ; thus moving the teeth of the gear further into the teeth of the flexplate. Supposedly gm fix for those improperly machined blocks. Used on Chevy 200 and 292 blocks with 368 tooth flexplate said staggered bolt pattern.

www.obbstartersandalternators.com/4347n-1107353-1107372-1108286-1108425-1108450-p-2949.html

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Jim L

Lake City



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Hopefully that will do the trick!

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Bruce L. - Lakeville MN

1971 Malibu Convert

1951 Pontiac Chieftain Super Deluxe Catalina Hardtop 



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More than 1 issue with the starter.  Nose is at the machine shop, he is taking .050 off the mounting pad of the nose, maybe we will remove a little more.  We have to see how it fits. But I also need a new drive.banghead  it further reinforcements the phrase “if it is working  don’t fix it”.   Starter was working but I thought a rebuild would be better.  New selonid, brushes, and paint a new drive.   Drive has failed.  Bob recommends a GM drive unless I want for replace it every year.  

 



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Jim L

Lake City



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I'm with Bob, find a GM original. I have 5-6 starters here for an used one, if you can't find new.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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Some Assembly Required

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20



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Thanks for the offer Mitch.  I Got one coming from Tom Lowe, 12bolt.com out of IA. A NOS unit Delco RemyD2008. Should be here next Wednesday.



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Jim L

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Machine shop could not mount the nose and hold in place, so only option is hand file.  NOS starter drive arrived. I think I should quick buy another.  Seems to fit the shaft much better, maybe that will correct some of the problems along with a front brace.



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Jim L

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Thinking I should buy another NOS starter drive.  Just to have a  good drive on hand.  You never know when you won‘t be able to find one an with two cars you never know.  I wonder when you won’t be able to get one from a GM dealer and what there cost would be.  Probably good insurance.



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Jim L

Lake City



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Maybe fixed. Installed a cheap Napa starter. Teeth of starter appear to engage good and starter sounds good. Brake problem not, so no chance to drive.



-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 8th of August 2022 01:17:30 AM

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Jim L

Lake City



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Good to hear you may solved the starter issue. As for the brakes locked, you can loosen the line anywhere up to that valve and bleed the pressure off to remove the valve and replace it. From what I remember, it's just an aftermarket piece and easily replaced. Not sure if you could even get parts to rebuild a throwaway part from China.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Charter member of the "Cars apart Club"

Some Assembly Required

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20



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Not positive what I actually have as it was swapped from another vehicle.  I think it was swapped from a 71 chevelle.  As I understand it the 71 had a metering/ proportion valve in the back by the rear wheel that was deleted some time in 71 ( I had that valve but a friend removed it when I had trouble getting the brakes to bleed).  And the  front distribution valve may have been replaced with a combination valve that contained a metering valve. I think this happened around 1997.  It has a part number cast into it and is cast iron, so pretty sure it not an original valve.    I am not sure if I have an old distribution valve or a combination valve and it appears to have been replaced.  If it is an old distribution valve it should be replaced with a combination valve as the valve back by the rear axel  has been removed.  According to the right stuffs, the distribution and combination valve look the same from the outside.



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Jim L

Lake City

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