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Post Info TOPIC: How do you de-rust, clean, and preserve the area between the hood top and bottom skins?


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How do you de-rust, clean, and preserve the area between the hood top and bottom skins?
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Getting information and suggestions.  As some of you may know I recently bought a 66 Malibu convertible.  The car needs to be painted in the future and the hood looks like a problem. My body many says it looks like some of the glue between the two panels may have absorbed moisture over time and rust started in these area as it appears rust may be coming from the inside to the top of the hood in a few spots.  Rather then repair these spots he has suggested I find a better hood to start with.  I have one in the garage that I took off a car that  I pulled home from SD a few years ago ; but it has some damage to the front lip due to hitting something.  So I am looking a good replacement; however my body/paint guy said this one  look usable.

I was wondering how to best de-rust any rust that has started between the panels, clean this area, and apply some kind of preservative, etc.  Even though I probably will end up not using this hood it would be a good hood to experiment on.  Are there any places nearby that do the dip method?  What about flooding the area with something like evaporust, etc?  What have you guys done?

I plan to drive the car as is though next summer.  Might there be something I should do to the hood on the car?  Who knows maybe that hood is ok at present.  Thanks



-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 28th of October 2019 05:36:19 PM

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Jim L

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Ospho, anyone ever used this.  According to directions you just pour it into the cavity and let it dry and you are good to go???



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Jim L

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 here are the directions   Then after it dries you just pour on the paint to the inside of the hood skins.



-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 28th of October 2019 05:42:45 PM

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Jim L

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Might want to search Ospho forums for paint after use. People either love or hate it on many paint and restoration forums.

There isn't a "glue" between the panels, it's an expanding foam to prevent vibration and it does absorb moisture and cause rust over time.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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My body guy said he though glue; but he wantn't sure, expanding foam sounds more like was I can see where there is a gap between the inner skin and the top skin. The also used the form in the truck  lid if I am not mistaken.   I see some of it and it almost looked like a weld as it kind of chipped off.  It is loose from the upper panel, so wondering If I should chip, scrape it out of there?  Easy to get to it as it just i inside the opening in the body of the hood.  What about way inside where the inner skin actually meat the outer skin?  This is the area he was talking about.  You are saying there was no adhesive used there?

I thought one of you hoods had a few holes o n the top.  This is what my body shop man thought might be waiting to appear.  He didn't want to repair these, if a better hood was available.  Can't remember who said it, maybe Karl, that they used a water based adhesive between the two panels.



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 29th of October 2019 09:08:16 AM

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Jim L

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I think I did say water based adhesive, whatever it was, it absorbed and held moisture, causing the rust through from the inside out.
B-Body hood panels had the same problem, was like a foam. It was spongy.
One of the reasons the 1/4 panels failed at the wheelhouse is because of that product.
Also, there were very few treated metals, except for the rocker panels, inner and outer. On some bodies, wheelhouse and some inner pieces.
Otherwise just very soft, cold rolled steel, with a low carbon content.

Jim,
By the way, suddenly going to Iowa this Friday to retrieve a 56 Chevrolet Basket case I bought last Saturday.
Won't be at Treasure Chest till late afternoon, three hours each way, plus load.

beers

Now have three 56 post sedans, one with title, one 4 door sedan and a pile of parts.

Loaded a 20 yd rolloff this weekend to make room.

Still will be tight.headscratch

dunno

Karl

 

 

 

 



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We’ll have to make it another time. Hope November weather is cooperative. Played with the air mixture screws and timing today. Timing had been  set to 4 degrees adv,  it is now at 14 degrees adv. performs better with no pinging when going to WOT on hill. Vacuum adv seems to add 20 degrees. No idea of what distributor adds. Still needs idle set at 1000 rpm to keep it from dying at stop sign with car in gear and foot on the brake.  Thinking I may have a vacuum leak.



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Jim L

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