Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Grajmahal · Active Member

Knowledgeable body person for my '66

Lost in the 60s · President

Is the car in a heated location to work on?
I would suggest removing the trim and evaluating from there. It may be you could seal up the leak without replacing any metal. If the lower windshield channel is rusted out, it gets to be a project. If the forward edge of the dash panel is rusted out too, it's a big project to rebuild that to look good and have the windshield fit properly again. The upper metal dash is welded in and as such may need to be cut out of the car for repair.

more ambition than brains · 1K+ Club

Proper repair is no small thing.
See the dash being welded in the "pair of Elcaminos" post.
There is an aftermarket part made that fits on the outside, below the glass, also a patch piece for the front, w/s area of upper dash.
Both my cars have had the outer A/M part replaced and the complete upper dash installed from donor cars.
I have a cowl with the glass out, will add picture later.
This can be a major project.
Karl

-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Friday 29th of January 2016 10:09:11 AM

Grajmahal · Active Member

The car is just in its winter cave, which is attached to my parent's condo. No heat and I'm not able to work there. I am in between shops (I sold my last house and I haven't finished building the new one yet) so I think this project is going to have to be something that happens in someone else's shop. I don't think that the dash is rusted (it's not that I can see anyway) but the last person to install the windshield used a LOT of black goop, which leads me to believe that there are other problems lurking beneath. The entire channel is going to need a good cleaning at the least, and some of the trim clips are going to need replacing. The windshield has a crack, and as long as I am doing the AC project, the whole dash / windshield area should get addressed once and for all.

I expect to be able to do the dash/AC/wiring/radio project myself, so what I am really looking for is someone with a body business that could take the car for a few weeks or months and ensure that this area is properly dealt with. I am concerned about windshield pillar strength as well, and this would be an ideal opportunity to inspect/repair that area too. I am working my way up to an eventual paint job, and I want to have all of the problems rectified and improvements made before taking that step.

John

more ambition than brains · 1K+ Club

Pictures of used cowl and 3 other 66 cowls.

more ambition than brains · 1K+ Club

The green one with the tan dash is original, virgin, other than brushed caulking and paint.
The Blue one is the Big block Elky.
Black epoxy one is White 66 small block Elky.
Upper dash panels and outer cowl piece replaced in both.
LOT of work.

We don't do restorations, you should probably continue your quest through this group!
Mitch nailed it.
Unless you have a huge budget, or can do it yourself, it can be daunting.

Other option, don't get it wet.

Karl

jim larson · 2K+ Club

A former member (Gary Salsman from Jordon, mn ) had his 66 Convert done by Sibley Engineering in Cannon Falls last year. The owners name is ? Jacobson. I have talked to him in the past. Nice guy, nice shop.

http://www.sibleyengineering.com

Grajmahal · Active Member

Thanks Jim - I'll give him a call. The photos are terrifying, but my car is nowhere near the condition of that white Elky. That looks like it was more a rescue mission than a repair job. On mine, there is no visible rust, just a channel full of goop that leads me to believe that things aren't as they should be. Once that windshield is out, I want to get back to 100%, whatever that entails.

John

jim larson · 2K+ Club

Grajmahal wrote:
Thanks Jim - I'll give him a call. The photos are terrifying, but my car is nowhere near the condition of that white Elky. That looks like it was more a rescue mission than a repair job. On mine, there is no visible rust, just a channel full of goop that leads me to believe that things aren't as they should be. Once that windshield is out, I want to get back to 100%, whatever that entails.

John

Some of the extra goop may be due to a replacement windshield that is not the same thickness as the original. If your using that rope caulking, you use the 3/8 in thick stuff with a new windshield or the 5/16 stuff with an old windshield. Also when the car was original there was a rubber dam that was installed to the inside to keep the caulking material from over flowing to the inside. They may not have used to correct rubber spacers to get the window set correctly. I am not positive; but I know of only one person that sells the proper installation materials for the chevelle and camaro's. I bought a kit a few years ago, as my windshield is not an original. I have an original up in the attic.

-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 30th of January 2016 10:35:52 AM

-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 30th of January 2016 10:36:24 AM

more ambition than brains · 1K+ Club

The white cowl is actually a remainder of a 4Dr. ht. car I parted out.
Saved it for the green Car- a/c dash etc. Black dash pad will go on the Big Block Elky.

It is really scary, however after 50 years these cars can get rough and be subjected to a multitude of "cover ups"

Both the ElCaminos were rusty, not as bad, but neither one looked terrible, until disassembled.
Caution is advised.

Karl

Lost in the 60s · President

more ambition than brains wrote:

Both the ElCaminos were rusty, not as bad, but neither one looked terrible, until disassembled.
Caution is advised.

Karl

And THAT is the understatement of the week. Most people have no idea how deep or bad their rust issue is from looking at a patched up car. I've learned thru some VERY expensive lessons, to assume the worst and be happy if it isn't.

You've got the right approach, John. Be ready for whatever surfaces and deal with it correctly once and for all.

Just get a truckers wallet with the chain...