Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Bryan · Contributor

67 Chevelle 12 bolt

Derek69SS · Founding Member

67 is a 1-year only axle housing, and they're quite expensive... 65-72 will all bolt in the same but 65-66 have flat spring perches, and 68-72 are 1" wider overall width.
Of the early housings, 65s are the easiest to find, as they were put in everything with a 327.
65-66 spring perches work just fine in a 67, but they won't look right if you're going for "correct" concourse resto...

Grajmahal · Active Member

Bryan, if that 10 bolt happens to be a posi, I might be able to remove it from your garage. :)

And pictures, please!

John

Bryan · Contributor

Thank you so much for this info, I was trying to do some research on this but you answered my questions!

I have been looking on craigslist, ebay, chevelles.com forum and cant seem to find a 67. I have a correct dated 67 10 bolt (sorry John, non posi) and no clue the history of why a 10 bolt is on the car, but would it make any sense to rebuild this? (put in new axles, posi, gears, etc.)

Here is the only pic I could find. I bought the car last year after finding it in a shed about an hour south of Mankato, it sat in that shed for 25+ years (last tabs on the license plates were from 1987).

-- Edited by Bryan on Friday 24th of October 2014 06:29:44 PM

Lost in the 60s · President

Rebuilding it depends on your intentions for the car. If you are just going to street drive it and get on it with street tires, it could live with stronger aftermarket components inside, even with more power from the engine than stock. If your gonna race/beat on it with a healthy engine, it may not last as long.

There was a guy in Iowa that rebuilds rear axles and has/runs across 12 bolts. If I can find the info again, he may be worth contacting to keep an eye out for a correct 12 bolt for you.

Lost in the 60s · President

This is an option too, where you don't need to disassemble the carrier.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-92-0782-2805/overview/

Dan Williams · Active Member

Lost in the 60s wrote:

There was a guy in Iowa that rebuilds rear axles and has/runs across 12 bolts. If I can find the info again, he may be worth contacting to keep an eye out for a correct 12 bolt for you.

Tom Lowe from down by Cedar Rapids. tlowe on Team Chevelle. Talked to him a couple of years ago, has a lot of knowledge on 12 bolts. http://www.12bolt.com/home

jim larson · 2K+ Club

Tom is a good resource. When I rebuilt my 66 12 bolt, I bought the bearing kit from him and sent him photos of the gear patterns to get it correct. He was very helpful. The 65-67's are more difficult to set up because of the single shim on each side as opposed to the super shims for the 68- 72 rears. As Derek mentioned the 66 and 67 12 bolts are harder to come by than the 65's. If you find one you are likely to have $2000 or more invested when it is all done. If you want any of the shorter rears, I would grab the first posi that shows for $1500 or less and then rebuild it, if not all ready rebuilt. The places to look would be members on Team Chevelle, Tom, eBay, and craig's list. I do have an spare 66 12 bolt posi in the garage.

-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 25th of October 2014 10:04:01 AM

Chris R · 2K+ Club

You might be better off just buying a new crate rearend from someone like Moser. After you factor the 1500+ for a good core, rebuild it to what you want you will have the same money or more after you figure new bearings and seals, adding (or rebuilding) the posi, purchasing the appropriate set of gears you want, and brakes.

Bryan · Contributor

Wow, thanks for all the great info! I have been looking at the Moser website and trying to follow up on a bunch of Craigslist posts and forums trying to track one down. Jim, you mentioned that you have a spare 66 12 bolt in your garage, but you didn't mention if you want to sell it :-)

-- Edited by Bryan on Saturday 25th of October 2014 04:24:44 PM

Grajmahal · Active Member

Awesome barn find, Bryan, it even has the hay on the hood. :: Jealous :: !
John

Derek69SS · Founding Member

Tom Lowe is a good guy, I've done business with him several times in the past back when I used to do a lot of swap-meets.

Bryan · Contributor

Found a few more pics: 2 from last year when I got the car (I believe it was about 18 degrees out). We had to call a wrecker to get the car on the car trailer. Next is the engine after the rebuild at the dyno.

-- Edited by Bryan on Monday 27th of October 2014 09:13:30 PM

dashboard · 2K+ Club

That is such a cool car, including CB antenna. I often look at old cars like this and wonder, if it could talk what would it say, what story's would it tell about it's past. Or what it sees in the future. It must be happy to be out in the daylight again. Maybe something about being sideways in first gear and missing second...or something that went on in the back seat at the drive-in.

OK, I understand I'm overly sentimental about old cars and airplane's but if your a car guy and it's in your blood and your say 45 to 47 years old it all could have started in the back seat of the is car.

SShink · 3K+ Club

Welcome Bryan!

My son is in his senior year at Mankato State graduating in May, so we get in that area once in awhile. Steve 'Bungie' on the forum also lives in that area if you ever need help with a Muncie, he's the guy!

What are your restoration plans for the '67? Sounds like you are going for a stock look, and the engine looks mostly stock at this point? What did it dyno at?

jim larson · 2K+ Club

If you plan to paint the rear panel black, don't use your present panel as a guide, as I think there is something wrong there. Black should extend to the tail light moldings.

-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 28th of October 2014 05:16:44 PM

Bryan · Contributor

SShink wrote:
Welcome Bryan!
My son is in his senior year at Mankato State graduating in May, so we get in that area once in awhile. Steve 'Bungie' on the forum also lives in that area if you ever need help with a Muncie, he's the guy!
What are your restoration plans for the '67? Sounds like you are going for a stock look, and the engine looks mostly stock at this point? What did it dyno at?

Thanks, I did get the Muncie fully rebuilt about a week ago from the local Aamco shop. All the old school local car guys said that the guy there was top notch so I went with him. I believe the current plan is to get it running and drive as is for awhile.... we'll see. I had TC Auto (local shop) do the rebuild, the engine was 325HP factory but after the rebuild it came in at 368HP with 434 ft. lbs. of torque.

Lost in the 60s · President

Bryan wrote:

Thanks, I did get the Muncie fully rebuilt about a week ago from the local Aamco shop. All the old school local car guys said that the guy there was top notch so I went with him. I believe the current plan is to get it running and drive as is for awhile.... we'll see. I had TC Auto (local shop) do the rebuild, the engine was 325HP factory but after the rebuild it came in at 368HP with 434 ft. lbs. of torque.

Those are nice numbers for power without being crazy or temperamental...

67ss · 1K+ Club

Do you have the cam spec or grind number and who from. I need to pick a cam for my buddies 396 and this will give me a good starting point.

Bryan · Contributor

jim larson wrote:
If you plan to paint the rear panel black, don't use your present panel as a guide, as I think there is something wrong there. Black should extend to the tail light moldings.

-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 28th of October 2014 05:16:44 PM

Thanks for that info. I went out and took a look at that panel and for what ever reason it was painted red...?

Bryan · Contributor

67ss wrote:
Do you have the cam spec or grind number and who from. I need to pick a cam for my buddies 396 and this will give me a good starting point.

I went with the COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kit CL11-238-3. I did have to bore it .60 over due to mice living in one cylinder and pitting it out.

jim larson · 2K+ Club

Bryan wrote:
jim larson wrote:
If you plan to paint the rear panel black, don't use your present panel as a guide, as I think there is something wrong there. Black should extend to the tail light moldings.

-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 28th of October 2014 05:16:44 PM
Thanks for that info. I went out and took a look at that panel and for what ever reason it was painted red...?

I thought you photo shown below was black on the rear panel between the upper and lower moldings or is that a dark dark?

Bryan · Contributor

jim larson wrote:
Bryan wrote:
jim larson wrote:
If you plan to paint the rear panel black, don't use your present panel as a guide, as I think there is something wrong there. Black should extend to the tail light moldings.

-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 28th of October 2014 05:16:44 PM
Thanks for that info. I went out and took a look at that panel and for what ever reason it was painted red...?
I thought you photo shown below was black on the rear panel between the upper and lower moldings or is that a dark dark?

Your right, it is black not red. I was thinking of the area next to the taillights.

jim larson · 2K+ Club

That the part that I think should also be painted black. Along with some black on the tail panel hidden by the trunk lid.

Bungy L-76 · Active Member

Kinda makes me think of Mitch's 66 SS with the bottom painted black like that. Maybe the previous owners of these cars were related?

Lost in the 60s · President

Bungy L-76 wrote:
Kinda makes me think of Mitch's 66 SS with the bottom painted black like that. Maybe the previous owners of these cars were related?

I thought the same thing. My car spent time in Iowa and may have been painted there... Won't be any black on it when it comes back out in the spring...