Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Members Login
Username 
 
Password 
    Remember Me  
Post Info TOPIC: John D, and Mitch


2K+ Club

Status: Offline
Posts: 2444
Date:
John D, and Mitch
Permalink  
 


John and or Mitch or anyone else for that mater.

I’m in the market for a blasting cabinet and compressor. I’ve done blasting with both of your systems could you give me your compressor specs?  I’d like to know the CFM rating at 80psi. Thanks    



__________________

Kevin

Northwestern Ohio



2K+ Club

Status: Offline
Posts: 2791
Date:
Permalink  
 

Here's a shot of the data plate. Compressor unit is all iron (not sleeved aluminum)with roller bearings on the crank, iron rods with real bearing inserts & bushings (floating pins). Also runs at much lower rpm than others of similar specs (= quiet).



Attachments
__________________

 

John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5

2018 Factory Five MkIV Roadster build thread



President

Status: Offline
Posts: 7323
Date:
Permalink  
 

I'll try to remember to look at mine today...

If you remember using mine, the compressor runs almost constantly but the cut in is 150#, shut off is 175. I run a pressure regulated extension hose at 60-80# to the cabinet. It would most likely do much better with a lower switch setting.

__________________

Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



Moderator

Status: Offline
Posts: 886
Date:
Permalink  
 

I bought from C-aire...



Attachments
A075V080-1230.pdf (1,779.7 kb)
__________________
You can sleep in your car, But you cant drive your house


President

Status: Offline
Posts: 7323
Date:
Permalink  
 

Mine is 15 cfm at 80#  IR T30 5hp 2 cylinder 2 stage.



__________________

Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



Mega Poster

Status: Offline
Posts: 710
Date:
Permalink  
 

Tony has a nice setup of compressor and cabinet. You get what you pay for with any system and will need to look at repair parts for both compressor and blast units as well.

__________________


2K+ Club

Status: Offline
Posts: 2444
Date:
Permalink  
 

Mitch is yours a 60 or 80 gal tank?

My take away here and from other homework I've done is 17 or greater CFM at 80 PSI an 80 gal tank will work well for most cabinets and a well built motor.

__________________

Kevin

Northwestern Ohio



President

Status: Offline
Posts: 7323
Date:
Permalink  
 

Mine is a 60. An 80 would provide more capacity before start up but you still need the compressor capability to refill faster than the draw down. Mine will shut off occasionally but 17-18 cfm would be better.

__________________

Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



2K+ Club

Status: Offline
Posts: 2791
Date:
Permalink  
 

I weighed the 60 vs. 80 gal. tank vs. higher cfm vs. this vs. that vs. voltage vs. HP vs. RPM and on & on & on...

What it came down to was my realistic use of the unit. I wanted to run air tools (for mechanical work), an occasional air-nailer, a D/A sander, possibly a spray gun, fill tires, and then occasionally a sand-blast cabinet. It's not in a production shop environment, and I'm only gonna buy this thing once.

The 60 gallon tank for my purposes is plenty big enough (volume) and it's small enough (size) to tuck in the corner and forget about. The 6HP/230V motor doesn't have to break a sweat, and current draw (economy) is 1/2 that of a 120V of a smaller HP rating (I don't think you can even GET a 6HP in 120V). The compressor head was the hard part. There were less expensive units with the same specs, but did not have iron cylinders, iron bushed/bearing'd rods, roller bearing cranks, and a large capacity oil sump (1qt.+). A low running RPM was also a big factor. Less RPM = less noise, wear. Other units could match spec on capacity, but at 1/3 more RPM.

If I'm running the blaster, it gets a workout... but generally by the time my hand cramps up from the trigger, it's time for a break and let the compressor catch up (to 125 tank pressure) and shut off. If you keep at it and keep going & going & going, the compressor will run pretty much constantly (maintaining 100+ PSI) until you stop blasting. Running air tools the thing kicks on about twice an hour.

Some of the best "features" I did during the install were:
- using the cork/rubber isolation blocks under the feet. I can have a glass of water 5' down the bench and there's hardly a ripple when running.
- routing the tank drain out to a easily accessible valve. It's a constant reminder to crack it open time to time and drain the condensate.
- piping the intake(s) up into the attic, and installing the filters up there. It cut the noise in the shop 60+%.

I know you'll do the research on this, but what it really comes down to is the quality of the compressor head.



Attachments
__________________

 

John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5

2018 Factory Five MkIV Roadster build thread



President

Status: Offline
Posts: 7323
Date:
Permalink  
 

I ran my bottom drain out to a ball valve too. Soooo much easier to twist the handle a little instead of reaching under the tank.

__________________

Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20

Page 1 of 1  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.

Chatbox
Please log in to join the chat!