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Post Info TOPIC: Out with the old


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My RS 500 has arrived, yuppie, a fifth gear .67 overdrive no more cruising at 2800-3000 RPM.

Pulled the M22 during the Vikings game Sunday and installed the RS 500 Monday afternoon, only modification required so far, I had to elongate the bolt holes on the cross member mount pad 3/8 of an inch moving the mount forward, that was after moving the cross member aft three inches to factory holes. I did build a transmission jig/mount to go on my jack, which was a big help during the install.

I checked out the shifting feel from inside the cab tonight*, I thought I had a short throw shifter in my Mustang. This is like micro shifting, in vision a three inch square box, on first though forth the shifter knob is inside the box, fifth and reverse would fit in the four inch box, very smooth, firm, and positive.

Hope to install the drive shaft, exhaust system and finish up some other details tomorrow, might get a test drive in before the week is over.

gearbangergearbangergearbangergearbanger  gearbangergearbanger

 

 

 

* Yes Stan and Brad I made the vroom noises.

 

 



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Kevin

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Looks like the weather may cooperate for a drive, good luck with the change.

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Jim L

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Don't forget the LUBricant... jab, jab... there's a copyright on nicknames. razz



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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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John D wrote:

Don't forget the LUBricant... jab, jab... there's a copyright on nicknames. razz


 I've always wondered how he got that nickname. Now I need to hear the whole story behind it...nana

Congrats on the install, Kevin. I knew you'd throw it in. You retired guys have all day to play while I sit in my truck for 11 hours...banghead



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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Kevin, as you have said before... "This thing needs pics!".  Cough 'em up buddy!  Imgonna



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

1972 Malibu Convertible 2nd time around 

2001 Mustang GT Convertible 

Forum influenced terms: 'Link Paste', 'Stanitized', & 'Revolving garage door...' 

 



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SShink wrote:

Kevin, as you have said before... "This thing needs pics!".  Cough 'em up buddy!  Imgonna


worthless_thread_wo_pics.gif

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

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rs11.jpgrs13.jpgrs4.jpgrs16.jpgrs17.jpg 

 

  My RS 500 is installed, serviced and ready for a test drive tomorrow morning. My speedometer cable is on back order. After looking at the clearance, it’s going to be really tight getting that baby in there, I’ll use GPS for now. Anyone know of a 90* offset Speedo adapter?

  The RS 500 mount bolts from trany to bell housing where a real challenge. After an hour standing in front of my bench grinder, grinding on crows feet and box end wrenches I had some custom made RS 500 special tools.

  The home made trany to jack adapter was a real plus with close clearances, it’s a tight fit but it goes in there and I have greater than the required ¼ inch clearance all around.

Trany, driveshaft, rear end, alignment with all four wheels on the deck looks like a lazar line.





-- Edited by dashboard on Wednesday 26th of October 2011 09:26:21 PM



-- Edited by dashboard on Thursday 27th of October 2011 08:01:08 AM

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Kevin

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Wow, those mounting bolts do look like a PITA.  Is the dizzy cap farther from the firewall now ?  Wish I could ride with for the first time out. I bet your grin will be stuck on for days.



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

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Had to seat the trany, pull it out about 1.5 inch’s start the bolts then run it in one flat at a time. No real difference in disty clearance.


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Kevin

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These guys may be able to help - http://www.gaugeguys.com/

I think this is the outfit that Stan got is ratio/correction adapter from...



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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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Here's another source, with dimensions: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm#90 Degree

 

 



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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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Install is complete, today I took it out for the second functional test drive, after the first one, I had two discrepancies. A nasty leak at the tail shaft and a high frequency vibration in the shifter handle a real zing or buzz sound.

The leak was a quick fix; I just replaced the output shaft seal. The vibration took more time to track down. Spent about two hours on the phone with an engineer at Keisler they were very professional and helpful then an hour on the phone with Mitch our number one crew chief. I rechecked everything, then I raised the tail shaft mount 3/16 of an inch, and went out for the second test drive. There it was again buzzing away, this time I isolated it and fixed it. I remembered something the Keisler rep said on the phone; he mentioned they had a problem some time ago with a Hurst shifter knob. So while cruising down Cliff road I reached down, unscrewed the shifter knob and Mr. Zing & Buzz left.

Things do change over time, I used to think that there would never be anything better than mother’s milk, then I found cold beer and salted peanuts. I also thought there could never be anything better then yanking the handle on a M22 rockcrusher and listening to that unmistakable Muncie whine.

I’m still a little uncomfortable driving it because every since of speed for the last thirty years in the Elky has been based on the feedback from the M22 whine, it’s gone now. In fact, I now hear noises I’ve never heard before like the radiator fan spinning up and the exhaust. This 3.27 first gear is nice, yanks the Elky out of the hole and hitting second gear (1.99) feels very good so I think I’ll stay with the 3.08 rear for now.

It’s very smooth, quite and shifts great, best part and the real reason I got it in the first place, cruising down 35E at 75 MPH at 1950 RPM and able to talk to the person sitting next to me.



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Kevin

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That is crazy that the knob rattles. When I went on a couple cruises with the '66, I could hear a rapid vibration too and the wife was with on the second one and asked what it was. I told her with my bad hearing I couldn't tell where it was coming from, but I remembered that while shifting I didn't hear it. I touched the shift knob lightly and it was vibrating ever so slightly back and forth.



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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Very Cool cool!

Wierd about the shifter knob... maybe too much mass? I'm thinking along the lines of something dense/heavy at the end of a stick, hitting a harmonic and going cyclical.

 You may need to utilize your woodworking skills and carve up a custom one out of a nice hunk of burlwood that's lighter.

 



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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5

2018 Factory Five MkIV Roadster build thread



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Easy fix!

(make sure you call them back, report it's fixed, and thank them)

Feedback like that is what helps them redesign things and help others when issues like this come up.

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1972 Malibu
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Gee, I don't seem to hear anything coming from my shift knob. How does raising the rear trans mount change the pinion angle? I may have to pull the transmission for a minor oil leak issue this winter . Kevin could you send me the plans that you used for building that adaptor for your floor jack? Thinking your 1.99 @ 3.08 is all most the same as the m20 with 1.88 @ 3.31 . But you are lot lower in 1st, 10.07 engine revolution to 8.34 engine revolution per tire revolution.

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John, I am going to try another shifter ball if that doesn’t work; I’ll install a rubber bushing between the shifter handle and the transmission. I’m not done yet, I still need to install the speedometer cable when it arrives, wire up the backup lights, and determine what I’m going to do with the factory reverse interlock to the steering wheel/ignition switch linkage. I’ll do all that when the engine and trany are removed this winter.

Bryan, the first thing I did when I got back from the test drive (after checking for a leak) was send Keisler email. They have been just outstanding to deal with.

Jim, Vibration often display themselves in objects that extend out from the vehicle, like mirrors, antennas, shifters, tailpipes and the like. The point of resonance on my Elky seems to be the shifter handle. I learned a lot about vibration analysis over 30 years in Naval Aviation. It’s very possible the zing was there before with the M22 and I just never heard it over the M22 whine. Do you have the factory shifter in yours? GM may have used some rubber bushings to dampen out vibrations.

I only raised the transmission mount to see if it would make any difference in the vibration.

Sorry,I don’t have any plans for the jack adapter, I just built it on the fly. Your more than welcome use it; it has a 1” shaft that slips into the jack, check your jack mount pad.

The 3.37 first gear with my 3.08 rear is the equivalent of 4.11 when coming out of the hole,


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Kevin

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Yep in 1st m20 2.52x4.11= 10.3796 and 3.37x3.08= 10.3796

Maybe you could send me a photo at my email address of the adapter with dimensions indicated? I just think it would be helpfull to have one in the garage

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Jim L

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How about we meet for lunch and I give it to you so you can copy it?

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Kevin

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Unless its too heavy. Put a #8 billiard ball on it for a shifter.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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Chris R wrote:

Unless its too heavy. Put a #8 billiard ball on it for a shifter.


#6 would fit better...beers

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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dashboard wrote:

How about we meet for lunch and I give it to you so you can copy it?


 

Rachael is coming back from visiting the grandkids in FL tomorrow.  I pick her up at 6:15 PM.   Maybe I could stop by in the afternoon and check out your projects and pick it up?  If ok, email me your address.

 

Jim



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Jim L

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I got the name because when I installed my Muncie I forgot the gear lube after install and running it a few times. Hence the name.
Great job Kevin! I am switching to tko500 this winter to....

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Lost in the 60s wrote:
Chris R wrote:

Unless its too heavy. Put a #8 billiard ball on it for a shifter.


#6 would fit better...beers

 


 

 #6 is a solid green color. That wont match his color scheme. Since there isnt any silver colored billiard balls, black goes with everything.thumbsup

The only problem is, they are not light. So it would almost be a dead weight which may not be good for the synchro's inside the trans. Although, ive never actually heard any proof of anyone that had to replace parts inside a transmission because of the shift knob.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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The opportunist.



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Rachael is coming back from visiting the grandkids in FL tomorrow.  I pick her up at 6:15 PM.   Maybe I could stop by in the afternoon and check out your projects and pick it up?  If ok, email me your address.

 

 


 Jim, check your PMs.

I'm ten minutes from MSP airport.



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Kevin

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Chris R wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Chris R wrote:

Unless its too heavy. Put a #8 billiard ball on it for a shifter.


#6 would fit better...beers

 


  #6 is a solid green color. That wont match his color scheme.


Uh, Kevin........ Any comment ??

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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five speed knob.jpg

Very soon it’s going to be so cold, we’re all going to have blue balls. Or, it’s going to be cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey.

Here’s the one I ordered.





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Kevin

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dashboard wrote:

 

Rachael is coming back from visiting the grandkids in FL tomorrow.  I pick her up at 6:15 PM.   Maybe I could stop by in the afternoon and check out your projects and pick it up?  If ok, email me your address.

 

 


 Jim, check your PMs.

I'm ten minutes from MSP airport.


 See you around mid afternoon, if that time is OK?



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Jim L

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  #6 is a solid green color. That wont match his color scheme.


Uh, Kevin........ Any comment ??

 


 Oh, not yet.



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Kevin

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Dont be paint'n it green either.

 



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

Sincerly,

The opportunist.



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Do you remember Mood Rings? How about a Mood Shifter? Turns colors based on the mood your in during shifts?

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 Dave, allow me to update my post.

 "Things do change over time, I used to think that there would never be anything better than mother’s milk, and then I discovered cold beer and salted peanuts.

  I also thought there could never be anything better then yanking the handle on an M 22 rock-crusher and listening to that unmistakable Muncie whine behind a Big Block Chevy, then I discovered the RS 500."

  Yep, mood rings. In fact, I’m starting to think Derrick, Tom, and Scott have known these things for a long time. Up next, at the Bow Tie Brunch I need to tie Derrick to a chair and grill him on suspension upgrades.

  However, I love the mood ring idea, cop pulls me over and I can say, officer look at shifter knob, I was being very mellow. Now ya have to think, what could he say?

Chris, going to have to wait and see on the color.



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You don't have to tie me to a chair, just mention the topic and I'll talk your ear off. tiphat



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Derek Kiefer - Mantorville, MN

69 Malibu Pro-Touring stroker LS1-383/T56 - 69 SS396-325/3spd project



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We'll confine him to a paint booth to minimize outside distractions. I want to upgrade my elky suspension also. I'll be bringing my speedway catalog.

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Instructions? All I need is the exploded view.
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Great idea, what a way to start getting rid of that 2012 money right away.

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Kevin

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Just have Derek and Scott give you a list of the parts they have on thier cars and go out and buy what they got.tiphat



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

Sincerly,

The opportunist.



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Chris R wrote:

Just have Derek and Scott give you a list of the parts they have on their cars and go out and buy what they got.tiphat


Unless the others are planning to autocross too, they would be spending at least double what they need for a great handling street machine. There are many changes that can be made with the stock suspension parts to improve handling. We tend to forget that many of our cars still have 40 year old bushings and they are junk. I replaced all the front end bushings on my '66 with ProThane urethane, added a heavier sway bar with urethane end and frame bushings and the car corners way better than it ever did from the factory. I also put Global West offset upper control arm shafts in but the alignment guy said he still couldn't get much more caster/camber out of them, so if that is desired, then tubular uppers with improved alignment capabilty are needed. Really no advantage from replacing the lowers, as there are no geometry changes, just lighter weight and more strength for extreme performance. And then you get into shocks. Most street cars don't need multi-adjustable shocks or coil-overs either.

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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I agree with Mitch... the question I always ask is "Do you want it to handle well, or feel like it handles well?" There's a big difference, and if you're not actually exceeding the limits of the tires, there's not much reason to spend big money to get from one to the other.

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Wow, it was really only a joke. Obviously only guys who are serious about autocrossing are going to spend thousands on suspension parts. I didnt think I was going to need to explain that (hence the smiley) but alrighty then.

 



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

Sincerly,

The opportunist.



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There are plenty of people who have spent many thousands of dollars on suspension without ever coming close to using it to it's capability. Some reading your post would do exactly that, go out and get the best when it isn't necessary.



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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On my white chevelle it took me a lot to get the stance and handling. Probably a couple of grand too. Was it worth it? No. But it was a learning experience non the less.

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Hey guys, I wont be doing any road rallies in the near future with the Elky. I would like to be able to turn a little better and certainly be able to stop quicker however.

Everyone seems to be correct here. I did increases the size of my forward sway bar and install a rear one along with new firmer shocks. What a difference, maybe that’s how it starts and I should be careful.

I was really just looking for some handling 101 ideas, we have some subject matter experts in the club and I will be picking their brains

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Lost in the 60s wrote:

There are plenty of people who have spent many thousands of dollars on suspension without ever coming close to using it to it's capability. Some reading your post would do exactly that, go out and get the best when it isn't necessary.


Ill refer you back to my previous response then.

There isnt anyone in this club that is foolish enough to spend that kind of money, or even has that kind of money. Whom wouldnt take the time to do thier research before shelling out the kind of cash for full on pro touring suspension.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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The opportunist.



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I have almost completed my wish list for the Elkys winter projects; unfortunately the 2012 budget is being exhausted quickly. I tried to break it down to needs and wants, only to realize there are no needs it’s all wants so now it is which want comes first.


I’m looking for some guidance on Disk brake kits. I currently have the factory installed front disk, rear drum setup but would like to go with four wheel disk if I could increases the brake action. I want the Elky to maintain its stock appearance as much as possible so one requirement is the factory Z15 rims must fit when it’s done.


I see Year One, Ground Up and lots of other venders have  four wheel disk kits plus they go on sale this time of year, do those mod kits tend to come with cheaper parts?

 
Could someone point me in a direction to start my research? What happens to the E Brake?

 
Thanks for listening guys.



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Kevin

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Personally, I think rear discs are a waste of money on most street cars and especailly on an Elky, as the back is so light to begin with that by the time you turn the pressure down to prevent lock-up, you haven't gained a thing over the drums. I suggest starting with rebuilding your calipers or buying rebuilts. If yours haven't been touched since new, they are full of sludge and the pistons are sticky. If you really insist on spending money, look at the aftermarket 2 or 4 piston calipers that bolt to the original mount and use a standard size disc. They will improve the brake force. Good quality pads that are fade resistant can help too. If the drums won't lock the rears under hard pedal pressure, they need to be rebuilt too....new cylinders, shoes, hardware kit and resurface or replace the drums. If all that has been done and they still don't lock up, maybe it's time for a new master cylinder.
I went from manual drums on the '66 to power front discs right off a '75 Nova. I rebuilt the calipers but re-used the pads that came with the conversion. They are some sort of performance pad. Everything in the rear is new and the master is too. The car stops very well now !!

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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I have to agree with Mitch again... the only real advantage rear discs have over drums is that they look cool, and if you're running stock wheels, nobody will see them anyway.

A good rebuild with quality pads and shoes will give you much performance as you can use with regular 15" street radials.



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Derek Kiefer - Mantorville, MN

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If you really want to upgrade the rears instead of looking at discs I would look into the 11" drum upgrade instead. Much cheaper overall and you don't have to change master cylinders or pressure bias.

I have accumulated the parts to do this on my 66 when I finally get the 12 bolt. But Master power brake sells a complete kit instead of trying to piece things.



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Chris P
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Personally, I think rear discs are a waste of money on most street cars and especailly on an Elky, as the back is so light to begin with...

Elky's being light in the azz-end is a myth - they are actually more weight "balanced" than the other models. What is punched steel or plastic in a wagon is solid steel in an Elky's azz - and don't forget the boxed frame.  Just 'cause it's open in back doesn't mean it's light!

(A 4-dr sedan is 22lbs. heavier, and then only a decked out 4-door wagon or a convert is heavier!) 

Spec's for '72

CHEVELLE & GREENBRIER
VEHICLE TYPESHIPPING WEIGHTCURB WEIGHT
ModelDescriptionFrontRearTotalFrontRearTotal
134364-Door, 2-Seat Station Wagon  8-cylinder182019943814180121053906
133372-Door Sport Coupe 6-cylinder178313893172176415053269
134372-Door Sport Coupe 8-cylinder189114093300187215253397
134464-Door, 3-Seat Station Wagon  8-cylinder181320573870179421683962
133694-Door Sedan 6-cylinder179914053204178015213301
134694-Door Sedan 8-cylinder190514273332188615433429
133802-Door Sedan Pickup 6-cylinder180014133213187115293310
134802-Door Sedan Pickup 8-cylinder190514363341188615523438
        
MALIBU & CONCOURS
VEHICLE TYPESHIPPING WEIGHTCURB WEIGHT
ModelDescriptionFrontRearTotalFrontRearTotal
136364-Door, 2-Seat Station Wagon  8-cylinder180320543857178421653949
135372-Door Sport Coupe 6-cylinder179613983194177715143291
136372-Door Sport Coupe 8-cylinder190914183327189015343424
136394-Door Sport Sedan 8-cylinder193914983438192016153535
136464-Door, 3-Seat Station Wagon  8-cylinder183020573870179421683962
136672-Door Convertible 8-cylinder189414853379187516013476
135694-Door Sedan 6-cylinder182314173240180415333337
136694-Door Sedan 8-cylinder192214493371190415653469
136802-Door Sedan Pickup 8-cylinder191214383350189315543447

I'd rebuild your existing, or do the "upgrade" to the 11". You'd need a lot of other mods to realize/justify the benefits, expense, and PITA of 4wh discs.



__________________

 

John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5

2018 Factory Five MkIV Roadster build thread



2K+ Club

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Thanks guys, sound advice from a trusted source, I’ll clean it up and rebuild original parts this winter; I’ve not stood on the peddle to see if the rears will lock up. Taking Stan for a new five-speed test drive tomorrow, I’ll try that when I think he least expects it.

Thanks again for the quick feed back, gosh, I like this club.



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Kevin

Northwestern Ohio



President

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Posts: 7350
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dashboard wrote:

 I’ve not stood on the peddle to see if the rears will lock up. Taking Stan for a new five-speed test drive tomorrow, I’ll try that when I think he least expects it.


laughing...thumbsup

 



__________________

Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

Some Assembly Required

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20

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