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Post Info TOPIC: Anyone have experience soldering copper ?


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Anyone have experience soldering copper ?
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I tried to bend the inlet tube of my new heater core to the right like factory and the solder broke instead of the copper bending...disbelief 

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

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You just sweat it in like water piping dont you..?

clean.
flux
heat with MAPP gas.
apply solder

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Are you using rosin core or acid core solder? I wont say im good at this either but I believe acid core solder is better for doing plumbing things like copper pipe then rosin core solder for electrical purposes.

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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

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Chris is correct:
Rosin core for electrical
Acid core for plumbing

I'm guessing the joint fractured right at the "body" of the heater core where the pipe is installed? If I'm not mistaken, those pipes are an annealed brass/copper alloy, and not very malleable (bendable).

Since it's already cracked and you have to re-solder, why not try and de-solder your original pipe (with the correct bend) and solder it in place on the new core?

The tricky part will be keeping the heat from migrating and de-soldering other joints. I'd suggest packing/wrapping the adjacent areas with wet cloths, like heat sinks.

Since the pipes are already tinned, as long as you can get them "dry-fit" it should be easy. Get it dry fit in place, remove, give it a slather with some flux paste, reassemble, then hit it with the Mapp gas or propane torch. There might be enough existing solder on the parts to where it'll just sweat itself in place.

Once it's cool, give it a pressure test with about 15lbs. of air submerged in a bucket of water, to check your work.

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5

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This is the easiest way to trash a heater core by doing it yourself. Been there done that and the SOB leaked 2 weeks after. Bring it to a radiator shop or if it is new return it and get another. As John stated it is the desolder of the other joints that kills you.

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The pipe is still attached but the solder cracked half way around right at the seam. It is spankin' new so it's pretty clean. I have heat soak paste I can surround the area with. I have a very fine tip for my torch that I was thinking of using on a very low flame to control the spread of heat. The info on correct solder is helpful, as I think I only have rosin core now. It would cost more in shipping to return it and may be denied warranty, so if I can't get comfortable with doing it myself, I'll take Daves route and have a radiator shop fix it.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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You don't need much heat. The material is thin, and solder alloy melts at around 400 degrees. I'd bet a big-azz Weller soldering gun would probably do the job if the fit-up was tight.

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5

2018 Factory Five MkIV Roadster build thread

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