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66 RAT


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Friday is move-in day for us. (Unfortunately, it will also mean missing the NCC meeting the next day.) There will be a little more room in our new garage so I'm thinking of getting a mid-rise lift. (http://www.directlift.com/Mid-Rise-Lift-Pro-6MR-P46C11.aspx) You could click on the "technical manual" link on that page if you'd like more information about the lift.

Direct-Lift was the manufacturer for the motorcycle table lift that I had before we sold our bikes and bought the Chevelle. I know Direct-Lift is a Chinese company and it looks like they pretty much copied Handy's motorcycle lift design. They have done the same thing with this mid-rise lift by copying the design of another manufacturer.

Anyway, I have some things to run by you. I know some of you have 4-post lifts and this is kind of a "baby" version of them. A mid-rise lift would be practical for my use -- changing fluids, greasing, cleaning, waxing, etc. As an old guy, it's getting less comfortable to get under the car when on ramps or jack stands. I'll still be on a creeper but there would be more room to work. It would also be a lot easier to wax the body sides when on a lift.

I like the fact that the wheels would hang loose. That makes it easier to remove them for greasing Zerk fittings, rotation, cleaning, etc. Of course, the center of the car would not be open like with a 4-poster but that wouldn't have much impact for my use.

There is a potential issue with the floor of my garage. The manual specifies "4-inch minimum thickness concrete, with steel reinforcement bars, and minimum compressive strength of 3,000 psi." My floor is supposedly 4-inches thick but only has fibermesh for reinforcement. I don't know whether it's 3,000 psi or not.

The lowered height is such that I would probably have to get some planks in order to get the Chevelle on the lift. The headers would probably not clear when getting it in position for use.

I got my bike lift through Greg Smith Equipment Sales' Indiana location. They shipped it to Yellow Freight in Burnsville where I picked it up. Benco Equipment sells Direct Lift equipment and has a local outlet in Shakopee. They'll deliver it to your home and even install it if you wish.

I'm wondering if any of you have thoughts about mid-rise lifts, Direct Lift, Benco Equipment or any other words of advice about this.



-- Edited by 66 RAT on Monday 12th of May 2014 08:29:38 PM

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Ron - Twin Cities

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gearlube


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I have a mid rise lift. It's an older unit but I love it. I use it all the time to wax the car, or even just work on it. My car is very low, and I have no issues getting up and over it. I even add some blocks under neath to raise it up a little bit. When I get back next week you can come out and check it out if you want.

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SShink


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Interesting topic Ron.  I've thought about a mid rise, but it doesn' have enough clearance under the center of the car for the projects I get into.

Have you considered either a 2 post fixed or portable lift?

Here's a 2 post fixed lift for about the same price:  2 Post Lift Link

MTP-9F Mechanix 2 Post Car Lift - Symmetric

Here's a 2 post portable for $2200: 2 Post Portable Link

Dannmar MaxJax Two Post Lifting System



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66 RAT


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I didn't know that a portable 2-post lift existed. I like the fact that it allows the wheels to hang loose. It has three other  advantages -- (1) it allows working space in the center of the vehicle; (2) it doesn't require boards to get clearance for low vehicles and (3) it stores more compactly than the scissor lift. The scissor lift can be rolled out of the way but still takes up a lot of floor space. The 2-post lift takes up very little space when moved to a wall.

What kind of system is used after the holes are drilled in the concrete? I assuming a threaded "sleeve" is placed in the hole but how is it secured?

By the way, the moving van was loaded on Thursday and delivered on Friday. As you might guess, the garage is loaded with boxes and other stuff but we are making slow headway already.



-- Edited by 66 RAT on Monday 19th of May 2014 03:30:56 PM

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Ron - Twin Cities

'66 Malibu
Dan Williams


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Search GarageJournal.com for the Maxjax. I used to hang out there a lot when I was building my shop. I remember when they came out with the Maxjax they had a special for the forum members and a ton of guys bought it and they all loved it. I probably would have been interested if I didn't already have a 2 and a 4 post lift. Even Team Chevelle has about ten threads on one.2cents

 

The video on their site is pretty cool:  http://www.maxjaxusa.com/



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Dave Seitz


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Jamie said he just ordered up another new lift for his shed. A midrise from Garage Toys for around $1700 but looking at Stans that looks like a nice lift as well.

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John D


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An answer to your question about securing the/a device to concrete.
http://www.confast.com/articles/how-concrete-fasteners-work.aspx

In this instance, a threaded female insert would probably be in the floor, and the device bolted to it.



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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

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66 RAT


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I know ignorance can be very limiting in trying to understand something, but it seems like there would be a tremendous amount of leverage on the 5 anchors holding each post to the floor. What type of company can drill the holes and install the never-to-be-pulled-out anchors?

My nightmare scenario would be two posts leaning at about a 45 degree angle with a big peak in the roof of the Chevelle.



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Ron - Twin Cities

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John D


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I use the machine or drop-in style all the time at work, and I'll tell you - If the hole is properly drilled and the anchor correctly set, the fastener will shear off before the anchor will pull out!

A hammer-drill and bits can be rented reasonably for a few hours from nearly any rental outfit.

They don't require any "special" skills to install - other than being able to drill a square/straight/perpendicular hole of the correct size in the concrete. The concrete must be at least 60 - 90 days old (not green), or if years old in good condition.



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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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SteveS


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66 RAT wrote:

I know ignorance can be very limiting in trying to understand something, but it seems like there would be a tremendous amount of leverage on the 5 anchors holding each post to the floor. What type of company can drill the holes and install the never-to-be-pulled-out anchors?

My nightmare scenario would be two posts leaning at about a 45 degree angle with a big peak in the roof of the Chevelle.

 I think most non-portable two post lifts only are secured by the anchor bolts on the towers.  The ones you see with the bar connecting across the top is just a channel for running the hoses from side to side.  

 

Just found this in their help section, it discusses the anchors

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/faqs/common-concerns.html



-- Edited by SteveS on Thursday 22nd of May 2014 06:05:43 AM

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Dave Seitz


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Concrete floor anchors just need to be installed properly and in solid concrete.


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66 RAT


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Thanks to all who've replied on this thread. The floor is supposed to be 4 inches thick. I've have to talk to the builder to see about the 3,000 psi issue. Is there a "normal" rating for garage floor concrete? There may be only a few who are still reading following this, but does anyone know what kind of contractor would do the drilling and installation of the "sleeves"? I should contact MaxJax to inquire about what type of anchoring system they use in case that makes a difference with who would do it.



-- Edited by 66 RAT on Thursday 22nd of May 2014 07:45:56 PM

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Ron - Twin Cities

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John D


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If you can handle a drill, you can install the anchors. I'd consult the mfg. and see what anchoring system they recommend - steel sleeves, Zemac/Lead anchors, or ??. They are really not that difficult to do...

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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