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Post Info TOPIC: Replacement doors for my Suburban
Derek69SS


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Replacement doors for my Suburban
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I'd go with option 3... complete doors with all the regulators, motors, switches, etc will save a lot of labor and fit better than the aftermarket shells.

While the door panels are off, rustproof inside the doors.



-- Edited by Derek69SS on Saturday 28th of July 2012 03:05:29 PM

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Derek Kiefer - Mantorville, MN

69 Malibu Pro-Touring stroker LS1-383/T56 - 69 SS396-325/3spd project
Lost in the 60s


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My opinion on aftermarket panels is that they are a LAST resort. I'm with Derek. Buy originals from down south and pay to have them shipped. It will still be less than the GM parts.

Just ran a search on www.car-part.com and this place has all 4 in stock. $500 each. Might be able to get a package price or reduced/free shipping on all 4.  http://www.lambertsalvage.com/



-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Saturday 28th of July 2012 06:23:29 PM

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
Tony Hoffer


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My old 99 is getting a little worn and the doors have rust on the bottom where the panel lip folds under into a J channel..
My trusted body guy told me that they are junk at that point and cannot be adequately repaired without the rust coming back..
So since we live in Minnesota.. they are ALL like that.. My options seem to be

1. Pay GM $750 to $1000 each for door shells.. ( not going to happen)

2. Go to some unknown aftermarket shells $125 to $300 ea.

3. Or find used ones from down south of the rust belt..

Has anyone dealt with the aftermarket door shells for this truck?     Help!


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Chris R


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My 97 Tahoe is the same way. Rust on the lip of the bumper, just noticed rust popping through above the windshield when I dug it out of storage last spring and all the doors, including the rear barn doors have some evidence of rust coming through. And thats after not seeing a winter since I got it in 2002. I think its rediculous personally. Today I was following a mid 00's GMC Denali pickup and the bumper had all sorts of rust on it and the rest of the truck looked nice. I dont know what it is with GM but its pathetic. angry



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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The opportunist.
Tony Hoffer


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This presents a problem for me.. Buying things from out of state sight unseen hasnt always worked out very well for me... I guess Ill have my body guy do this..

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Chris R


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Tony Hoffer wrote:

This presents a problem for me.. Buying things from out of state sight unseen hasnt always worked out very well for me... I guess Ill have my body guy do this..

  I agree, plus, this body style truck is so much a dime a dozen, you can typically buy a very nice half ton 95-99 Suburban/Tahoe for less then 5 grand. You would have to be pretty attached to one of these trucks to dump big bucks into body parts. Plus the cost to have them painted too. If I ever decide to fix the rust spots on mine, ll probably go the route of just cleaning up what I have and doing the best to fight the rust from coming back again, even though its a loosing battle. I wish my Tahoe was in the same condition as Pushrods 1 ton 99 (his is one of the nicest ones out there, no rust at all anywhere and he isnt afraid to drive it all year wrong).

Every once in a while, you do see some southern parts show up around this area for sale, thats still in pretty good shape. I screwed up my above post, its my hood that also has rust on the front lip along with the other areas, not my bumpers, they actually have no rust on them.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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The opportunist.
bowtie


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I sent you an e-mail Tony, but I also agree with www.car-part.com as an option. They list what yards have what parts as well as condition (look for 000) and note where and type of damage if there is any. The nice thing is you can sort by location, and there were several listed in MN with 000.

Here's a quick recap from a past newsletter showing how it works on car-part.com:

http://www.northstarchevelles.com/NonSecure/NewsLetters/11jan.pdf



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Bryan-NW 'burbs
1972 Malibu
Vaguely stock appearing, and the opposite of restored.
1999 std bore 5.7, Vortec heads, Holley Stealth Ram, GM cam
700R4, Viking coilovers, 12 bolt 4.10 posi, and a whole bunch more
Tony Hoffer


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Looks Like IM going with option 3.... Got some bad reports on the Keystone stuff.
As to the three to 5 grand Suburbans out there.. Ive never seen one with less rust or miles than mine.. Maybe Im not looking hard enough..
Either way I guess the old Sub has served me well.. If I fix some stuff now maybe I can get some more years out of it.. I dont have 50K for a new one...

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bowtie


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We use Keystone for lots of stuff, but not sheetmetal so I can't say on it's quality. Their bumper covers are OK, thier wheels are nice, thier rechrome stuff is nice too.

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Bryan-NW 'burbs
1972 Malibu
Vaguely stock appearing, and the opposite of restored.
1999 std bore 5.7, Vortec heads, Holley Stealth Ram, GM cam
700R4, Viking coilovers, 12 bolt 4.10 posi, and a whole bunch more
Lost in the 60s


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bowtie wrote:

We use Keystone for lots of stuff, but not sheetmetal so I can't say on it's quality. Their bumper covers are OK, thier wheels are nice, thier rechrome stuff is nice too.

I think Keystone gets their sheetmetal from Sortafit, er, I mean Certifit. Not very good stuff.

 

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
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