Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

I have decided that I want my car to handle better. Of course, I need to get it tuned (gotta book a date with Jim, but it's going to happen soon), and then edumacate myself in what I'm going to need.

Please point me towards some good references. I'm assuming the pro-touring section of TC, and Lateral-G would be good places, though I haven't checked them out. Also, what kinds of parts should I be looking at?

This will not be a big-dollar project. honestly, like the rest of my car's build, it will be as "on the cheap" as I can, though cost isn't the decision maker. It's also not going to be a winter project, it will be a year or more to save up and find stuff (unless a fairy car-father wants to sponsor me).

Currently, I have factory disc brakes, Helwig sway bars, and rear Southside machine bars. I would assume I'm looking at better brakes, shocks, springs, maybe a steering box change, and tires once I can actually use them. I don't really want to whoe pro-touring look so much as the feel. I'm most likely not going to be competitive for things like RSE based on my HP and budget.

I'll open this to everyone, but I know some are more well versend than others.

I'm interested in this as well Bryan, I've love to upgrade suspension & tires to be able to run some local autocross events just for fun.  But, it will take some time before my car budget has recouped from the engine swap to do anything.      

I'm interested as well.

Check out this link to SC&C

I bought my stuff about 2-1/2 years ago using stage II plus components. At that time the package wasn't nearly as complete as it is now. Mark & I really just put a package together incorporating the parts I already had:

The kit/parts I ordered from SC&C was basically:
- Their adjustable upper arms
- The "tall" ball joints
- The springs they recommended (and supplied)

To work it backwards, I "deleted" from the current package:
- No sway bars (already had 1-1/8 front & OEM rear.
- No rear arms (had boxed lowers, and '64 ((semi-adjustable)) uppers installed) with polygraphite bushings.
- No shocks (already had new "non-specialty" HD/OEM replacements) - couldn't afford "fancy" ones.

I'm using the stock front lower arms (upgraded with polygraphite bushings), tires are 255/40/17's (Blizzak's... yeah, snow tires, but they came with the wheels), and a fast-ratio GM steering box (from a Trans Am/WS-6 car).

As y'all know, I'm a tight SOB with a buck... I'll make/build it (if I can) before I'll buy it, employ used or OEM when possible, or compromise until funds allow. I have a very limited budget for "toys".

I am VERY pleased with the performance and quality of the parts, and the handling/ride - and remember that my setup is a "hodgepodge" of existing parts mated to only the items necessary to get decent alignment specs & geometry. I am totally confident that if someone purchased their entire kit (as spec'd) it would even be more awesome.

I can equate the ride & handling to a late-model Z28,T/A... firm but not harsh. Very little body roll, and all of the GM "wallow" that we're used to is GONE.

What are you going to run for tires & wheels? That's the most important part of the package, the rest is just doing what it needs to do to keep the tires happy and touching the pavement...

If you want to stay with 15s, honestly there's not much point in doing anything more than springs and swaybars... If you want to go up to 17s or 18s, I'd recommend also getting 9" or wider wheels, so you can get some decent rubber on it. All that geometry improving and high-end gadgetry has only one purpose, to keep the maximum amount of rubber in contact with the road. You can spend thousands on getting the "perfect" geometry, but if someone spent only a few hundred to get 90% as good, but has 2" more rubber at each corner, he'll beat you, easily.

Next decision is brakes... anything more than "stock" disc/drum setup is not really necessary until you get on a course bigger than any autocross I've ever been on. Slowing several times from ~50mph in a 50-70sec course is no problem when you have cool-down time between runs. Slowing a second time after standing on them at 140 is a whole different story. Brakes = weight. Smaller is faster, until you overheat them... and then you crash. Good rotors and high-performance pads will work with the heat better than the cheap stuff. Good fresh fluid is even more important when you get to that point. If you decide bigger brakes are necessary, the C5/C6 stuff is really affordable, and makes the AFX spindle not seem so expensive... They can make wheel fitment a little tricky though, as the caliper sticks out past the hub flange.

After that, the rest is just the stuff that connects the pieces together, and tunes the handling... what will work best for you will vary based on what you decide for the above.

My biggest suggestion is to figure out the whole package, then buy what you really want the first time, even if it's only a small part of the overall setup... and don't change the plan half way through, unless it's something that won't make the parts you already bought obsolete.

Back in Black wrote:

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I've been toying with the idea of doing something different with my suspension and brakes but I'd have to sell all my current stuff first. It would be a simple bolt on setup. All the R&D is done. Wheels and tires would go as well. If anyone is interested, you can check out the details here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/703372/1970-chevrolet-el-camino

What QA1 shocks do you have ? are they the R series ?

-- Edited by Back in Black on Tuesday 24th of July 2012 11:45:56 AM

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Bryan, the problem with 15s is that you can't get performance tires for them, except in really small sizes (to fit Miatas and Civics)

My tire suggestion would be the biggest "Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec" that you can get, which is 265/40 in 17" or 275/40 in 18"... They're the only tire I would buy right now, but they're coming out with the Z2 next year, so you might want to wait (either for more possible sizes, or closeout deals on the Z1)

The SCCA just changed their rules for next year in the "Road Tire" classes, so hopefully that may create a market for bigger sizes from Dunlop.

For the 200tw requirement at all the musclecar events, I'd honestly rather have 275mm Dunlops than 315mm Nittos or BFGs... If they don't change the TW rating on the Z2 (which is supposed to be faster yet!), these might be my little secret for next year's events. ;)

I have 150+ autocross runs on mine and a few thousand street miles, and expect to get another year out of them (they need to be flipped though to put the worn outside edge on the inside)

They do get hard though if they're allowed to freeze, so storage can be an issue.

My wheels are all 17x8 - I just run different size tires front and rear. I have plenty of clearance for wider wheels but I got a deal on these and I like them. So know you could go bigger easily...but you'll want at least a 17 to get a good sized brake in there, and you always want a bigger tire in back to look right. I have a slew of coils you can try, and I have a couple in mind that should be real close to what you need.