Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

frank · Active Member

battery cable

Chris R · 2K+ Club

Do you know exactly what guage wire you need Frank? Im pretty sure a lot of parts stores can get you the size you need in a bulk length like that. Ive done it before.

frank · Active Member

will they crimp on the end

Derek69SS · Founding Member

Just curious, but why such a long negative? Can't you just ground it on the frame somewhere close to the battery?

frank · Active Member

i had trouble with a weak starter and the starter kicking out. i have a buddy who is a wiz at this he took jumper cables and went from battery ground to the engine and my car never started like that. so i ran some store bought one but had to put a couple together and it worked great. now i wanted to get one piece and take out the temp fix. talked to a lot of people and they all say ground goes to block then the frame.

Bowtieman427 · Active Member

Not telling you what to do but more grounds is always better. Is you battery terminated to the frame ? mine goes to block and I have grounds going from frame to block. I run three direct from frame to engine 2x00 and 2 gauge. I also have some 4 and 6 gauge going to the body plus 2x ground staps.
I make my own cables Fleet Farm may have some. I order bluck and get crimper from work.
Are you going from trunk mount ? Personally would use 0 min but would use 00 that is me may be able to use 2 gauge. Do not be afraid to make more grounds al over.
Longer cable bigger gauge

seagrams72 · Active Member

Ground cable from a welding store, I.E, Toll. Wires are finer so easier to work with and more flexible. Cheap too.

Tim H · Mega Poster

I suspect you already know this but you can use the biggest cable out there but if the connection point is not free of paint, rust, grime etc it won't matter. Get the connection points clean and to a bare surface, connect the wire and top coat it with a sealer.

And your starter should not be bolted to a heavily painted block if you are having issues. The more surface area the better. Amps travel on the outside of surfaces and not in them.

We go direct from the battery rear monted to the frame in our race car then from the block to the frame. We have around 11:1 compression and don't have an issue.

-- Edited by Tim H on Tuesday 17th of July 2012 07:21:20 AM

Chris R · 2K+ Club

I was thinking the same thing Jim mentioned. Perhaps grounding the battery right to the frame nearby, then take another length and ground the engine block to the frame as well, more then one place if you would like.

Yes you can get the eyelets to crimp onto the cables as well. I would considering heating the end even soldering the ends on there for improved connection as well.

Summit sells a battery re-location kit that has all the battery cable you need and a few other things that come with it just for race cars that need the battery in the trunk. I used the same kit on my car, works pretty good. Cost about 50 bucks.

4-door Chevelle · Super Poster

What Andy said, go to welding shop for good and cheap long cables.