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SShink


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Replace Chevelle fuel sending unit or not...?
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Looks like I'll be dropping my tank to clean up the chassis and look for a build sheet.  So... do you guys recommend replacing the fuel sending unit? dunno

It's about $50, so seems like a reasonable thing to do.  Throw it on the 'might as well' list?

As far as I know, the current setup is working accurately.  Seems to read right compared to the fuel level.



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

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dashboard


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How does that go?

"If it's not broke don't *&^% with it."





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Kevin

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SShink


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dashboard wrote:

How does that go?

"If it's not broke don't *&^% with it."



I know... I know... but all those 40+ year old parts that have been exposed to crappy gas make me have these crazy thoughts!   cuckoo



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

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2001 Mustang GT Convertible 

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Chris R


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If your gas gauge works and it physically looks good when you get it out, including the wiring. I would re-use it but I would replace the lock ring and the seal though. The replacement ones done always have the proper ohms at a given fuel level which you end up getting inacurate readings. I once ran out of gas in my 66 because the replacement sender was off some. Not a lot but enough for me to think I could make it farther then I actually did.





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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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John D


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Like stated: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

A new gasket, and filter sock would be in order. You can also do a little PM on the sender unit - give the "sweeper" arm of the contact a miniscule tweak to ensure good contact against the coil windings. Check the float as well - any sign of cracking or checking of the plastic would make it a reject.

A check with an ohm-meter wouldn't be out of line. By looking at the witness marks on the coils, the meter should read from zero to 90+ ohms during the sweep of travel.

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

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Jon H


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Save the $50. there will other issues to spend it on.

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Jon H.  Lino Lakes
Bungy L-76


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Same here, I'd just inspect it and clean it, put it back in. Maybe a new filter sock and definitly a new o-ring and lock.



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Lost in the 60s


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Jon H wrote:

Save the $50. there will other issues to spend it on.

Right on, Jon !!!

Don't buy a repop lock ring.....they're junk compared to original. If your original isn't all rusty, I would go to a Chev dealer and get a new o-ring. The chinese o-rings don't fit all that well either, in MHO.

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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Chris R


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If you cant find a good quality lock ring. You could try to blow it off with compressed air to get the loose dirt and dust off, then spray the heck out of it with penetrant to lube it. You may be able to get it off without any real damage and might be able to re-use it. Im not sure if the GM dealers would have any in stock, so it might need to be ordered.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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Tim H


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Make sure you clean up the tank, sending unit and ring real good so you get a good ground when you reinstall it or you may be taking it back off again. I'd coat the whole thing with some dielectric grease after you put it back together.

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Scott Parkhurst


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I thought I'd be changing mine too, since the gauge never worked from the day I bought the car. I was doing some other stuff under there (replacing a leaking rubber line) and cleaned up the chassis ground from the sender. Now it works fine and is as accurate as it ever was new. These gauges were never that great to begin with, but they're accurate enough if everything is functioning.

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jim larson


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What about cleaning the inside of the tank? Looks like gas is going up.

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Jim L

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SShink


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Thanks everyone for the feedback.

I decided to replace the tank & straps so that I don't have to clean up the inside/outside of the tank, repaint, etc... for the price of the tank.

I'm going to re-use the sending unit but replace the sock and gasket since the gauge and sending unit seem to be working well together.



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

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SteveS


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Did you find any sign of a second build sheet on the old tank, or haven't you dropped it yet?



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SShink


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SteveS wrote:

Did you find any sign of a second build sheet on the old tank, or haven't you dropped it yet?

Still fighting the back 2 bolts, so haven't dropped it yet.  I'm about ready to use the cutoff wheel and then replace the bolts since they are so corroded and rusted on...   I still need to drain about a 1/4 tank of gas to drop it too, so I wanted to wait until I'm done painting.  Hate to have all those fumes together with the furnace on!  hyper



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

1972 Malibu Convertible 2nd time around 

2001 Mustang GT Convertible 

Forum influenced terms: 'Link Paste', 'Stanitized', & 'Revolving garage door...' 

 
Lost in the 60s


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SShink wrote:
SteveS wrote:

Did you find any sign of a second build sheet on the old tank, or haven't you dropped it yet?

Still fighting the back 2 bolts, so haven't dropped it yet.  I'm about ready to use the cutoff wheel and then replace the bolts since they are so corroded and rusted on...   I still need to drain about a 1/4 tank of gas to drop it too, so I wanted to wait until I'm done painting.  Hate to have all those fumes together with the furnace on!  hyper

If you're replacing the tank AND straps, spend the extra 5 bucks for new bolts....razz

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
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