Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Not 100% SURE, I know Tony runs Hoosier 28 x 9.0 / 15 slicks for the strip and I know 275 60 r15 will work. I think about 28" x 8.5-9" on 8-8.5"x15" wheel is about it in a stock setup. Not sure if you go 10" wheel or if you play with back spacing. I think on a 8-8.5" 4.5-4 7/8" on wheel may work.
Other things to consider if you running slick. If you are going tubless or tube screwing wheel down. The 26x8 x15 may work but you may want to consider getting the taller ones with the 4.10 gear
We put the 275 60 r15 on Steve S car and they actully rubbed a little bumps in street. They were fine at the track.
There are some posts on TC that talk about sizes but some people have rooled the lip up ont he rear fender.

I know many run M/T 3055S 15x10" wheel Section 11.7"x tread 10.0 x height 28.1 not sure of back space or if there are running stock rear arms or if they rolled the fender lip.

I have a pair of M/T 26x8.5X15s that I ran on the '66 last weekend. There is room for a LOT more tire in my wheel well, but it is different than a '68-72. You're welcome to use them for research, as I won't use them until next year again. They are mounted on stock 15X7 Rally wheels and they do bulge. They really need a 8" wheel to lay flat.

I agree the 29" tall would work better with your gearing and a 10" wide tire will fit easily on the right wheel.

Tony probably has about the ideal set up at 28X9.

 

Maybe check this out
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/2683768248.html

If they have been stored inside, they should be fine. I don't have tubes in my slicks, nor does Tony. I need to screw mine to the wheels tho, as it appears they did walk a small amount.

Dave Seitz wrote:

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Stan just a few quick things for you.
1.Rubber DOES harden with age and heat cycles, natural or synthetic compounds does not matter. If these are to old they can blow at speed and cause damage to you and car.

2.Do you REALLY NEED slicks? You additionaly need a driveshaft loop and make sure rear suspension is up to snuff. If traction is the last issue to getting down the track for that last .01 to win the race then go ahead.

3.Can you just use a street slick DOT tire? One member will use a Blizzak winter tire for the snow drift that may suddenly appear on the track. I will not reveal his name or the LT1 Elky he drives.

4.Do you have another set of rims just for those tires, or is this just one of those "hey they are cheap I'll try running slicks"

Not trying to be a jerk, that comes easy for me. Just asking so you don't waste money that you could donate to other things or me.

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Hey Dave, all good questions.  I had no traction at all with the BF TA's on the track.  I tried walking it out of the hole, then hitting it hard and it would still break both tires loose.  The TA's are over 10 years old... so I'm sure they are on the hard side and not that good even when new for traction.

The snow tire idea is not bad as they are a much softer compound and are stickier.  I know they work for a certain Elky as well. 

If I find a pair of slicks, they will have their own rims.  Probably steel rims to help with the rotational mass/slippage as well?

I don't think I need a driveshaft loop until it gets in the 11's?  This Chevelle will be on the track 1-2 times/year, so I don't want to hack up the frame for a loop.

bowtie wrote:

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I would still look into a loop. If you do get traction, the U-joint would be a weak point. If it breaks, you could then become a vehicular pole vaulter. Tony/Frank/Steve/Darren might know if it's a NHRA or track requirement for running slicks.

 

Pretty sure the loop is dependant on ET. I had slicks on and they never questioned, or looked for a loop, but then my car doesn't look as fast as Stan's...

In my humble opinion, TA's are some of the worst traction tires around. I had a set on my IROC and took them off right away because I couldn't keep the car on the road. Cornering was just as slippery as acceleration traction. I have Firestone Indy 500's on the '66 and the traction is pretty good off the line, if I don't floor it, but the slicks are much better.  I have thrown the '66 into freeway ramps at 10 over suggested and it just goes around without drifting. The TA's on my IROC would break loose at posted and the car would drift. NOT a good feeling.

You will benefit greatly from the traction of slicks with the gearing you have.

 

Beginning Jan 1, 2005, a rollbar and an SFI 16.1 driver restraint system will be mandatory on any vehicle running 11.49 or quicker and for convertibles running 13.49 or quicker. An SFI 3.2A jacket will be mandatory for all drivers running between 10.00 an 11.49 seconds. On any car running 11.49 or quicker, a flywheel and clutch meeting SFI spec 1.1 or 1.2 and a flywheel shield meeting SFI spec 6.1,6.2,6.3,or 9.1 will be mandatory. A driveshaft loop will be required on all cars running 13.99 or quicker and utilizing slicks, except vehicles equipped with street tires running 11.49 or slower.

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

Tony-You probably gave the best advice that made me think about if I really want to buy and store slicks for only 1-2 times a year.  At this point, I think I'll hold off buying and and see if I could borrow someone's at the next club drag race event for a couple of runs, and see what my best time can be and leave it at that.

I did have a blast getting on the track this year though!