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Post Info TOPIC: What oil do you use and where do you buy it?


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What oil do you use and where do you buy it?
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So I've read a ton of stuff on TC regarding oils and ZDDP and all of that's great info.  But... what do you use and where do you buy it?

I'm trying to find something local that I don't have to order online.  So far, Valvoline VR-1 petroleum 20W50 racing oil looks like the only thing easily accessible that has the right Zinc levels based on TC posts (O'Reilly's).  Not sure if that's too thick for a cam break-in or not.

Going to need the oil by the weekend as I hope to have the engine back together and ready to prime the top end.

Thoughts?

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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

1972 Malibu Convertible 2nd time around 

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Check out Red Lines site and their Break In Oil Additive

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=121&pcid=1

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John E - Rogers, MN

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I use the Brad Penn oil that Jeff (?) at Wheeler recommended and I usually buy it there too.

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Michael S. - Cambridge
'71 Malibu



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I thought some of the diesel specific oils had higher zinc levels. Rotella and delo 15w40 I think are the ones. The last motor I broke in I used rotella and a bottle of comp cams break in lube and the cam did not destroy itself.

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Chris P
East Central, Mn

66 Chevelle 300 deluxe



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67ss wrote:

I thought some of the diesel specific oils had higher zinc levels. Rotella and delo 15w40 I think are the ones. The last motor I broke in I used rotella and a bottle of comp cams break in lube and the cam did not destroy itself.




 Can you buy Rotella locally?  If so, where?



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

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67ss wrote:

I thought some of the diesel specific oils had higher zinc levels. Rotella and delo 15w40 I think are the ones. The last motor I broke in I used rotella and a bottle of comp cams break in lube and the cam did not destroy itself.




Actually. You cant even rely on Rotella anymore. They had to change that oil and drop a bunch of the zinc in it for stricter emmissions now. So unfortunately, thats a wash now. I believe the rule of thumb was around 2005 or 2006 was when they changed that. I have a full container that is before that time that is still good.

Im pretty sure you can use any grade oil you want. But you have to add a bottle of ZDDP now to cover it. Ill probably just go directly to Jeff at Wheeler as well and get the Brad Penn stuff just because its close. I have to again refer to your engine builder. Is it possible he can sell you the "good stuff" when you need it?

Im not sure but I think "race only" oil that Valvoline makes is the one you want. The regular labelled performance oil doesnt have the same amount of Zinc in it.



-- Edited by Chris R on Tuesday 25th of January 2011 02:44:57 PM

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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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Chris R wrote:

Im pretty sure you can use any grade oil you want. But you have to add a bottle of ZDDP now to cover it. Ill probably just go directly to Jeff at Wheeler as well and get the Brad Penn stuff just because its close. I have to again refer to your engine builder. Is it possible he can sell you the "good stuff" when you need it?

Im not sure but I think "race only" oil that Valvoline makes is the one you want. The regular labelled performance oil doesnt have the same amount of Zinc in it.



-- Edited by Chris R on Tuesday 25th of January 2011 02:44:57 PM

Chris R., now that you mention it... Comp Engines did give me the additive to use.  I just wasn't sure if it works with any petroleum based oil or if I should try to get something with ZDDP already in it.  I'll give them a call to confirm.  I think any petroleum oil will work with the additive.

He did tell me NOT to use synthetic oil at all (especially for break in).  The other tip he gave me was to mix the additive in with 4-5 quarts of oil before pouring it in so that it is well mixed together, rather than pouring it in seperately from the oil into the valve cover.

 



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

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I use Delco 10W40 and add 4 oz of ZDDP. There are others but more expensive. I have also read all the posts of TC. Shaw Wheaton seems like a straight up guy. He has a whole list of current oils with the proper levels. And he has done extensive research.

Check out this post on TC.

www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195620&highlight=convential+oils&page=22

Over 330 responses, so just go to page 22, post 319. I would trust Scott over any salesman.

However; I would follow the cam manufactors suggestions for the initial breakin period. Good luck.

-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 25th of January 2011 02:56:23 PM

-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 25th of January 2011 02:56:55 PM

-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 25th of January 2011 02:58:06 PM

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Jim L

Lake City



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I know I had to get the Joe Gibbs Breakin oil and that is supposed to be the stuff to run now. After breakin I'll run with the Hot Rod oil they sell that has the good stuff in it as well.
With their oils they say to change filters every 2000 miles and top off with fresh oil. You can also send oil in for analysis to assure the quality of additives is still there.

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Fleet Farm Bulk

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Ian M  St louis Park



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Stan unfortunatly Chris is right about diesel spec oil try twin city harley most older harleys run flat tappet cam/lifter combo they know about zddp. I personally run the valvoline VR-1 get it at oreilly, but valvoline also makes a "racing only" 15w30 oreiley can usally aquire in a day.

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Craig S - Shakopee Mn



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I go to Wal-Mart and buy the 5 quart container of Mobil 5000 10/30 and add 1 bottle of ZDDP. $12.00 for the oil+ $8.00 ZDDP = $20 dollars for oil versus much more for the specially formulated oils on the market. Been running this in my flat tappet Camaro 350 for 3 years now....wink

Stan, you should be doing a complete prime of the oiling system before start-up anyway. Pour the oil and additive in and stir...smile  Too bad we didn't think of this while I was at your house. I had 6 bottles of ZDDP and my primer tool in the truck...no

And yes, diesel oil is sans all the additives now too because of the particulate filters installed since 07. I need to run ALL kinds of crap in my oil for my antique engine now ...furious

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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Lost in the 60s wrote:

I go to Wal-Mart and buy the 5 quart container of Mobil 5000 10/30 and add 1 bottle of ZDDP. $12.00 for the oil+ $8.00 ZDDP = $20 dollars for oil versus much more for the specially formulated oils on the market. Been running this in my flat tappet Camaro 350 for 3 years now....wink

Stan, you should be doing a complete prime of the oiling system before start-up anyway. Pour the oil and additive in and stir...smile  Too bad we didn't think of this while I was at your house. I had 6 bottles of ZDDP and my primer tool in the truck...no

And yes, diesel oil is sans all the additives now too because of the particulate filters installed since 07. I need to run ALL kinds of crap in my oil for my antique engine now ...furious



Thanks Mitch.  I do have the ZDDP additive that Comp Engines gave me.  I do have a primer tool so I'm good with that.  Is the Mobil 5000 petroleum or synthetic oil?

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. 

Yes, I will prime the motor before going to the dyno for break in. 

Craig S.-Are you running the 20W50 Valvoline VR-1 or a lighter weight?



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

1972 Malibu Convertible 2nd time around 

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Mobil 5000 is petroleum. Unless you buy the expensive oil with the mineral additives, you need the ZDDP with every oil change. Don't make the mistake of thinking it's only for break in. You need that zinc on the cam lobes or you WILL experience premature cam failure.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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I have been using Delo 15w40 but I will be reading again this spring what is up with oils as it does seem to change a lot. I know you can get the additive at any dealer as well.

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Darren - Crystal, MN
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Lost in the 60s wrote:

Mobil 5000 is petroleum. Unless you buy the expensive oil with the mineral additives, you need the ZDDP with every oil change. Don't make the mistake of thinking it's only for break in. You need that zinc on the cam lobes or you WILL experience premature cam failure.



I hate to say it... but it looks like there is a Wal-Mart trip in my future.  wink

 



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

1972 Malibu Convertible 2nd time around 

1999 SS Camaro LS1-6 speed

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I think walmart has rotella and delo, but I am sure napa has rotella. You might call over to Murgics they may stock brad penn or something of the same type since he is close to you.

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Chris P
East Central, Mn

66 Chevelle 300 deluxe



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Wheeler up here has it for sale. Was it Mitch who had the ZDDP additive in bottles at Karls? Someone had it in the swap on my side between me and the eating tables.

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Bryan-NW 'burbs
1972 Malibu
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1999 std bore 5.7, Vortec heads, Holley Stealth Ram, GM cam
700R4, Viking coilovers, 12 bolt 4.10 posi, and a whole bunch more



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Post Breakin: Summit's new Spectro RePKG, sum- mgsae 30, sum-mg10w40, wum-mg20w50

Cen-pe-co
joe giggs hot rod oil
motor head hi "z" oil
classic car oil

valvolines vr1 race oil;and has proper detergent lvl for street

delco le 15w-40 for stock to moderate lvl perf cams

cam2 race oil
redline race oil
royal pruple race oil
brad penn race oil
pennzoil 25w50gt race oil



-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 26th of January 2011 081527 AM

-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 26th of January 2011 08:16:46 AM

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Jim L

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I have heard but cannot confirm AeroShell has the zinc still in their formula.
Would need to find out from the folks in the AV circles about that.

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For flat tappet cams enough ZDDP needs to be present. Here is an article from HotRod mag

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/index.html

Here is a post on the topic on TC check out the last more current posts here:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243928

Anyone know of anywhere that has a table camparing amount of ZDDP for oils made today ?

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Jim  -- Pine Island, MN



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Dave Seitz wrote:

I have heard but cannot confirm AeroShell has the zinc still in their formula.
Would need to find out from the folks in the AV circles about that.



My brother, who lives in AK and is a AV mechanic and fly his own float plane,  says thats what he uses just for that purpose.  Don't what the engine to quit while flying up there.  He also says to go and by the AV gas and put it in the chevelle.

 



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Jim L

Lake City

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