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Post Info TOPIC: Valve setting EOIC vs. 'Motor Daddy' method
SShink


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Valve setting EOIC vs. 'Motor Daddy' method
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I'm prepping for setting the valves when the heads are done (been awhile since I've done this), and found this post on TC. 

Anyone ever try the 'Motor Daddy' method vs. EOIC (Exhaust Open, Intake Closed) method (seems a lot easier than keeping track of which cylinders are done and which ones aren't using EOIC)?

EOIC is an excellent method for setting lash on a solid-lifter cam. It wastes a lot of time on a hydraulic cam that just needs "normal" preload.

So--assuming this is a hydraulic cam: I suggest the "MotorDaddy Method" for a first-timer.

Loosen ALL the rockers. ALL 16 pushrods have free play (lash.)

Put the crankshaft ANYWHERE AT ALL. It does NOT matter where the crank ends up. TDC, BDC, twelve degrees past TDC on #4--It is NOT IMPORTANT. You may want to put a paint mark or something on the damper, lined up with the timing pointer.

Tighten ALL 16 rockers JUST ENOUGH to get rid of free play. (Bring them to the zero-lash point) If the intake manifold is still off--so you can SEE the lifter plunger--so much the better. Too many newbies can't find the zero-lash point; and get WAY TOO MUCH preload. So it helps to be able to see the lifter plunger.

Rotate the crank EXACTLY one turn--360 degrees, no more no less. Your paint mark (if you made one) is in the same position it was, relative to the timing pointer. Since the camshaft turns at 1/2 the rate of the crank, the cam is now only 1/2 turn around--180 degrees.

Some rocker arms that you just tightened before turning the crankshaft are now loose. Tighten all the loose rockers JUST ENOUGH to get rid of free play. (Bring them to the zero-lash point.) Any that are still tight, LEAVE ALONE. At this point, all 16 lifters are at the zero-lash point and ready for the preload to be added.

Tighten ALL 16 rockers the amount you choose for preload. Most guys seem to use 1/2 turn. Works for me. Don't forget to tighten the set screws if you're using fancy rocker nuts.

Stick a fork in it, YOU'RE DONE with the lifter preload adjustment except to install the valve covers.

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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

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69SSConv


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Sure seems a lot faster than the EOIC method?  I haven't adjusted enough valves to say one way or the other, but it make sense, on hydraulic lifters.

-- Edited by 69SSConv on Wednesday 12th of January 2011 031843 PM

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Loren B. - Princeton, MN

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Chris R


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I would talk to the engine builder about this as well. Having roller rockers may not work with this method. I only tried it once with a stock engine.

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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

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I know this method, if found this out and went cool that was fast after watching it. Your turning the pushrod with your finger and when you feel the tension 1/2-1/4 turn more. Works slick and if you didn't get all the lifters pumped up it still allows for the tension.

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John D


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The only thing I don't like about that method is you're not guaranteed to be on the base circle of the cam. You're adjusting lash (or more correctly pre-load) "somewhere" in the rotation of the cam.

I use this method:

With engine in position for #1 to fire set exhaust 1-3-4-8, intake 1-2-5-7.
Rotate the engine 1 full revolution. This should be TDC #6.
With # 6 in position to fire adjust exhaust 2-5-6-7, intake 3-4-6-8.

This establishes the lifters being adjusted are on the base circle. I usually crank in between 1/2 and 3/4 turn after clearance is taken up.

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

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SShink


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John D., that's the method I've used in the past.

How many of you pre-soak the lifters in oil at least 24 hours before installing and setting lash?

I didn't do that once, and I think I had to go back and redo the lash because some of the lifters weren't fully pumped up when I set them the first time...

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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

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John D


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I don't do the pre-soak - they're assembled with light oil, and on a new engine fire-up you pre-oil anyway (drill motor/oil pump routine) so there's oil up there anyway. On an old engine, I'll usually disconnect power from the ignition and let it crank a 1/2 dozen times, then let it fire.

I feel the pre-soak or "submerge the lifter and push with a pushrod" hinders my "feel" when adjusting initial lash. You really just want a zero lash condition (to where the cup just moves from the snap-ring) then an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

On ANY lifter install, be it new cam & new lifters or new lifters on an old cam I always put a generous blob of moly assembly lube on the lifter face, and dab on each end of the pushrod.

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

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Tony Hoffer


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The above methods are fine for a stock or RV type cam.. But with the kind of cam Im running now.. its one at a time baby! and Yes it makes a difference.

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67ss


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I personally take a small oil pump can and pump the lifter up with that before installing them into the engine. That way I know the lifter is pumped to the top for setting the lash.

For setting the lifters I take a marker and divide the balancer into 4 pie pieces using the tdc mark. Then just turn to each of the 4 marks following the firing order and adjust each cylinder as you go.

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Chris P
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SShink


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67ss wrote:

I personally take a small oil pump can and pump the lifter up with that before installing them into the engine. That way I know the lifter is pumped to the top for setting the lash.

For setting the lifters I take a marker and divide the balancer into 4 pie pieces using the tdc mark. Then just turn to each of the 4 marks following the firing order and adjust each cylinder as you go.



 Chris, I'm assuming that's after it is on # 1 TDC combustion stroke?



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

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67ss


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Put it on the tdc mark it can be on #1 or #6 so long as you know which cylinder you are starting with and then again follow the firing order.



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Chris P
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Pushrod


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Hey Stan, after my failed pushrod fiasco, J.D. and replaced all 16 lifters and all 16 rods then we set lifter preload the way he described in his reply, motor cold. After motor was running and warm we then re-checked lifter preload, as far as we could tell, they were almost perfect.... kinda messy though. Start at #1, COMP STROKE, TDC



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Craig S - Shakopee Mn
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John D wrote:

The only thing I don't like about that method is you're not guaranteed to be on the base circle of the cam. You're adjusting lash (or more correctly pre-load) "somewhere" in the rotation of the cam.

I use this method:

With engine in position for #1 to fire set exhaust 1-3-4-8, intake 1-2-5-7.
Rotate the engine 1 full revolution. This should be TDC #6.
With # 6 in position to fire adjust exhaust 2-5-6-7, intake 3-4-6-8.

This establishes the lifters being adjusted are on the base circle. I usually crank in between 1/2 and 3/4 turn after clearance is taken up.


This was the first thing I though of as well but couldnt come up with a good way to explain it in words. Primarily, this is how I have always done it.

 



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

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SShink


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Pushrod wrote:

Hey Stan, after my failed pushrod fiasco, J.D. and replaced all 16 lifters and all 16 rods then we set lifter preload the way he described in his reply, motor cold. After motor was running and warm we then re-checked lifter preload, as far as we could tell, they were almost perfect.... kinda messy though. Start at #1, COMP STROKE, TDC


Thanks Craig.  fyi-I have to laugh every time I see your avatar pic!  We're going to have to work on changing that for you.  biggrin

I saw J.D. had some small block valve covers on his garage wall that have 3/4" holes strategically placed to be able to have the covers on the engine when it's running and get to the rocker nuts for adjustment.  I've done something similar but basically cut a rectangle in the top of the valve cover big enough to get at the rocker nuts to minimize the oil splash when it's running.  Hmmmm.... I've got an old set of big block valve covers I could do this to.  biggrin

 

 



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

1972 Malibu Convertible 2nd time around 

2001 Mustang GT Convertible 

Forum influenced terms: 'Link Paste', 'Stanitized', & 'Revolving garage door...' 

 
John D


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Yeah, the valve covers are Ver. 4.0 on the oil control game.

V1.0 was the spring-metal clips - junk. Popped off without warning and oil poured over the lower rear corners of the heads.
V2.0 was the Plastic & metal clips - "Rocker Stoppers" -  junk. Popped off without warning and oil poured over the lower rear corners of the heads.
V3.0 was a valve cover with a large rectangle cut out of it. Drastic improvement in oil control, as it didn't pour off the lower rear corners, but still had little "geysers" squirting from the pushrods.



jV4.0 - Spent the time and took careful measurements of the rocker studs. Transferred to the valve cover. Measured the diameter of a 5/8" socket (roughly 7/8") and used a hole saw to bore holes in the cover. Zero oil makes it out of the engine (other than what drips off the socket moving from hole to hole). I had a new cork gasket laying around, and glued it to the cover so it doesn't get lost.

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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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bowtie


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Here's a better avatar pic for Craig:


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SShink


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bowtie wrote:

Here's a better avatar pic for Craig:

I like it!  And, it shows why he's called 'Pushrod'! 

Maybe J.D. can change the avatar for him.  biggrin

 



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Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

1972 Malibu Convertible 2nd time around 

2001 Mustang GT Convertible 

Forum influenced terms: 'Link Paste', 'Stanitized', & 'Revolving garage door...' 

 
Pushrod


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I dont know that guy..... mmmmmmmmm a slim jim!!  Wow, whats the Dia. of that rod, .750???

-- Edited by Pushrod on Saturday 15th of January 2011 12:09:56 PM

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Craig S - Shakopee Mn
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