Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

SShink · 3K+ Club

Derek-Need front end alignment guidance, again...

Derek69SS · Founding Member

Camber: - 0.25deg
Caster: + as much as possible, and equal on both sides (likely around +2 deg)
Toe: 1/8" IN

It's completely backward from stock specs, but this will be better.

SShink · 3K+ Club

Got it. Thanks!

Taking it in Wed. night for the alignment. Picked up the speedo adaptor to go in line with the 200-4R to adjust for the 3.42 gears today, so the check list is getting very short now!

jim larson · 2K+ Club

Derek69SS wrote:
Camber: - 0.25deg
Caster: + as much as possible, and equal on both sides (likely around +2 deg)
Toe: 1/8" IN

It's completely backward from stock specs, but this will be better.

Is this the same if you are using bias tires?

Derek69SS · Founding Member

It would work with bias tires too... the only reason to run the factory specs is if you don't have Power Steering, as the + Caster would increase steering effort.

For a car like yours though that you want to look correct, you might want to stick with factory specs just so you don't see a big stack of shims on the back side of the upper A-arm cross shaft. It is pretty obvious when you align for + caster, especially if your shims are new and shiny.

jim larson · 2K+ Club

Derek69SS wrote:
It would work with bias tires too... the only reason to run the factory specs is if you don't have Power Steering, as the + Caster would increase steering effort.

For a car like yours though that you want to look correct, you might want to stick with factory specs just so you don't see a big stack of shims on the back side of the upper A-arm cross shaft. It is pretty obvious when you align for + caster, especially if your shims are new and shiny.

Thanks Derek. I have the Power Steering. I changed to the positive caster about 2 yrs ago. I could not nice any difference in steering effort.

Yes those new shinny shims look a little odd with a big stack in the back and a single shim in the front.

Maybe I should go back with the -.5 factory caster. Really don't think I could tell if it turns any easier.

I am thinking about try to change the steering ratio and effort by doinging something like a JGC conversion. Have you seen my post on that either here or on TC?

Derek69SS · Founding Member

Jim, I have a complete JGC setup (except the metric fitting adapters) if you're interested.

I would stay with the + caster alignment, as it's better for tire wear. To run - caster, you have to run a lot more toe-in for stability, which wears the tires more.

SShink · 3K+ Club

Derek69SS wrote:
Jim, I have a complete JGC setup (except the metric fitting adapters) if you're interested.

If Jim isn't interested, let me know. Now that the car is handling more firmly, I can tell the steering box ratio is the next weak link... assuming it would work with a BBC.

jim larson · 2K+ Club

Derek69SS wrote:
Jim, I have a complete JGC setup (except the metric fitting adapters) if you're interested.

I would stay with the + caster alignment, as it's better for tire wear. To run - caster, you have to run a lot more toe-in for stability, which wears the tires more.

I am just not sure I want to put in a Jeep box as you can see if you check out my post on the project section. So maybe Stan can use it. If you have the rag joint for the 3/4" shaft, that should work with his 72 steering shaft according to what I have read. And I think I read that they started to use the 1400lb pressure valve in the pumps sometime in 1970. All he would need is the Lee adaptors.