This is on my SB Malibu. Are there any tips to get this to stop leaking? It’s a replacement fuel pump. Maybe double gasket or clean and that new gray RTV? Anyone have luck with fixing this issue? Thanks
John D said
Mar 21, 2024
Many times it's the (one) bolt/hole that's through drilled into the cavity for the pump pushrod. It's a "wet" hole, and is used to hold the pushrod up-n-out of the way to install the pump easier. During the procedure you use a longer bolt to touch/hold the pushrod. When done, you "plug" the hole with a short (3/8-ish length), using sealant on it.
I'd check this before going through the mess of fuel pump or adapter plate gaskets.
jim larson said
Mar 21, 2024
Thanks John. I think the plate that goes between the fuel pump and the block may not be sealed up the best. I think I should clean that up and re-install. Is it possible for oil to run down the push rod and cause a minor leak In this area?
John D said
Mar 22, 2024
Oh yeah. That minor amount of leakage keeps the tip of the pushrod oiled against the fuel pump lever... but over time oil accumulates in that void/sump.
Bobs_Place said
Mar 22, 2024
When you brought the car to my house right after you got the engine installed and running, there was a leak at the fuel pump mounting that I identified, was it ever fixed? I don't recall for sure but I think the leak was the plate mounting gasket. So if you do find that it is the pump mounting and not not the short 3/8 bolt as John suggested, I would replace both gaskets as it is easy to do the plate gasket once the pump is off.
jim larson said
Mar 22, 2024
Bobs_Place wrote:
When you brought the car to my house right after you got the engine installed and running, there was a leak at the fuel pump mounting that I identified, was it ever fixed? I don't recall for sure but I think the leak was the plate mounting gasket. So if you do find that it is the pump mounting and not not the short 3/8 bolt as John suggested, I would replace both gaskets as it is easy to do the plate gasket once the pump is off.
Yes Bob that’s the leak I am attempting to fix.
jim larson said
Mar 23, 2024
Well I took the fuel pump and plate off. It appears there may have been a leak at the bottom of the plate. Gasket looks like a cheap very thin gasket. Wounder where you can get the best? Maybe a very thin coat of RTV. Appears re-builder put the gasket on then the two lower bolts but did use anything to fasten the top 2 fuel pump bolts and then painted the plate/block, probably figuring the gasket would seal when installing the pump. He also did not put any sealant on the side bolt John mentioned.
Would using a little red high temp silicone on both sides of the paper gasket help? Would this cause any other problems?
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 23, 2024
The grey gasket material left on the plate appears to be Fel-Pro and is a good gasket. Should be able to get them at most any auto parts store. If you have a flat piece of metal laying around, hold a sheet of 220 grit wet or dry paper on it and sand both sides of the plate a little to see how flat it is. If it's close, sand more to get it better. Then clean it with alcohol or acetone before installing. The pic is the ONLY gasket sealer I use on anything with oil in it anymore. Again, available at most auto parts stores. I don't know if high temp is designed to withstand oil.
The surfaces of the block and plate need to be cleaned with alcohol or acetone and dry before you apply the sealer. My suggested method would be to have 4 short bolts for the plate ready and once you install the plate, snug those 4 bolts down and let it sit overnight. Make certain the pump flange is super clean with alcohol or acetone too and install that the next day. You only need a very thin film of the sealer to have it work properly. I would let that sit for a few hours too, to let the rtv set up well. You can switch out the rod holding bolt for a shorter one with a Little sealer on clean threads at this time... ;)
As a PS, before you install the plate, have Rachael BUMP the starter while you put pressure on the pump rod. You'll feel when it gets as far in the engine as it goes on the flat area of the cam and then snug it down with the jamb bolt. This is the least amount of spring pressure you'll have to deal with while installing the pump. If you attempt to install the pump with the rod extended on the cam, you will have a heck of a fight to push the pump against the plate to start the bolts.
jim larson said
Mar 24, 2024
Thanks Mitch. I kind of understand everything you mention except “ have Rachael bump the Sartre while you put presure on the pump rod”. I do this before installing the plate? I hole the bolt up by tightening that side bolt up against the push rod?
When I rebuilt my carb, I leave the throttle plate by using a 1/4” glass plate with wet sandpaper. I don’t think the plate is flat now. Ordered the gaskets from speedway today.
i just finished a little wet sanding. Does it loo OK? Looks like a few scratches, do these have to be sanded out? I can take all the paint off the front side, looks like they used a little etch primer. Installed the plate, the painted along with the test of the engine. I would like to paint the outside before installing. Would it be OK to paint the outside before putting on the fuel pump gasket?
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 24th of March 2024 04:06:44 PM
Did you order the Ultra Black sealer too ? That "scratch" looks more like something struck it and bent the plate. I can see the sanding hasn't touched the plate across the entire bottom, inline with the holes. The other side supports that theory. I see sanding across the bottom and at the slot hole, but not much between on the paint. What grit paper are you using to sand ? Only sand lengthwise and don't use water. Use the paper dry. The slight texture the sand paper leaves will actually help the gasket seat and seal. It's easier to see where the high and low areas are on the metal too. If that plate is bent, it will need to be filed/sanded flat, tapped flat or replaced. We aren't ready to talk about paint yet. Yes, to positioning and holding the pump rod before you install the plate.
jim larson said
Mar 25, 2024
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Did you order the Ultra Black sealer too ? That "scratch" looks more like something struck it and bent the plate. I can see the sanding hasn't touched the plate across the entire bottom, inline with the holes. The other side supports that theory. I see sanding across the bottom and at the slot hole, but not much between on the paint. What grit paper are you using to sand ? Only sand lengthwise and don't use water. Use the paper dry. The slight texture the sand paper leaves will actually help the gasket seat and seal. It's easier to see where the high and low areas are on the metal too. If that plate is bent, it will need to be filed/sanded flat, tapped flat or replaced. We aren't ready to talk about paint yet. Yes, to positioning and holding the pump rod before you install the plate.
I have the sealer.
When I took he pump off I pushed the rod as far up as possible and put a longer bolt in that side hole to hold the push rod as far up as possible and in the position it was, was that wrong?
I will sand more today. I was using wet 220.
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 25, 2024
You did fine pushing the rod up, but it may be on the cam to push the arm on the fuel pump. How much did the pump push back on the bolts as you removed it ? It's entirely possible it's OK where it is, but it won't hurt to check it by turning the engine over and feeling the travel by hand.
220 dry is good. Put some pressure on the plate to get the grit to dig in, we want to see the pattern.
I don't trust paint under a gasket not to break down over time and leak. To paint the plate, I cover the area where the pump goes with blue masking tape, except the pump arm hole, lightly bolt the pump on the plate using short bolts/nuts and then cut the tape around the pump with a sharp razor blade. Remove the pump and excess tape and paint.
Bobs_Place said
Mar 25, 2024
If you position the engine at the #2 firing that should put the FP push rod in the most up and out of the way.
jim larson said
Mar 30, 2024
Pump, plate, gaskets, and Black RTV back in place. Now it’s wait and see until Iget the dash and wiring back in place.
i was lucky, the distributor was pointing to #2.
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 30th of March 2024 06:52:30 PM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 30th of March 2024 06:53:54 PM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 30th of March 2024 07:17:25 PM
This is on my SB Malibu. Are there any tips to get this to stop leaking? It’s a replacement fuel pump. Maybe double gasket or clean and that new gray RTV? Anyone have luck with fixing this issue? Thanks
I'd check this before going through the mess of fuel pump or adapter plate gaskets.
Thanks John. I think the plate that goes between the fuel pump and the block may not be sealed up the best. I think I should clean that up and re-install. Is it possible for oil to run down the push rod and cause a minor leak In this area?
When you brought the car to my house right after you got the engine installed and running, there was a leak at the fuel pump mounting that I identified, was it ever fixed? I don't recall for sure but I think the leak was the plate mounting gasket. So if you do find that it is the pump mounting and not not the short 3/8 bolt as John suggested, I would replace both gaskets as it is easy to do the plate gasket once the pump is off.
Yes Bob that’s the leak I am attempting to fix.
Well I took the fuel pump and plate off. It appears there may have been a leak at the bottom of the plate. Gasket looks like a cheap very thin gasket. Wounder where you can get the best? Maybe a very thin coat of RTV. Appears re-builder put the gasket on then the two lower bolts but did use anything to fasten the top 2 fuel pump bolts and then painted the plate/block, probably figuring the gasket would seal when installing the pump. He also did not put any sealant on the side bolt John mentioned.
How good is this gasket. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314415062882.
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of March 2024 05:44:04 PM
Would using a little red high temp silicone on both sides of the paper gasket help? Would this cause any other problems?
The grey gasket material left on the plate appears to be Fel-Pro and is a good gasket. Should be able to get them at most any auto parts store. If you have a flat piece of metal laying around, hold a sheet of 220 grit wet or dry paper on it and sand both sides of the plate a little to see how flat it is. If it's close, sand more to get it better. Then clean it with alcohol or acetone before installing. The pic is the ONLY gasket sealer I use on anything with oil in it anymore. Again, available at most auto parts stores. I don't know if high temp is designed to withstand oil.
The surfaces of the block and plate need to be cleaned with alcohol or acetone and dry before you apply the sealer. My suggested method would be to have 4 short bolts for the plate ready and once you install the plate, snug those 4 bolts down and let it sit overnight. Make certain the pump flange is super clean with alcohol or acetone too and install that the next day. You only need a very thin film of the sealer to have it work properly. I would let that sit for a few hours too, to let the rtv set up well. You can switch out the rod holding bolt for a shorter one with a Little sealer on clean threads at this time... ;)
As a PS, before you install the plate, have Rachael BUMP the starter while you put pressure on the pump rod. You'll feel when it gets as far in the engine as it goes on the flat area of the cam and then snug it down with the jamb bolt. This is the least amount of spring pressure you'll have to deal with while installing the pump. If you attempt to install the pump with the rod extended on the cam, you will have a heck of a fight to push the pump against the plate to start the bolts.
Thanks Mitch. I kind of understand everything you mention except “ have Rachael bump the Sartre while you put presure on the pump rod”. I do this before installing the plate? I hole the bolt up by tightening that side bolt up against the push rod?
When I rebuilt my carb, I leave the throttle plate by using a 1/4” glass plate with wet sandpaper. I don’t think the plate is flat now. Ordered the gaskets from speedway today.
i just finished a little wet sanding. Does it loo OK? Looks like a few scratches, do these have to be sanded out? I can take all the paint off the front side, looks like they used a little etch primer. Installed the plate, the painted along with the test of the engine. I would like to paint the outside before installing. Would it be OK to paint the outside before putting on the fuel pump gasket?
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 24th of March 2024 04:06:44 PM
Did you order the Ultra Black sealer too ?
That "scratch" looks more like something struck it and bent the plate. I can see the sanding hasn't touched the plate across the entire bottom, inline with the holes. The other side supports that theory. I see sanding across the bottom and at the slot hole, but not much between on the paint.
What grit paper are you using to sand ? Only sand lengthwise and don't use water. Use the paper dry. The slight texture the sand paper leaves will actually help the gasket seat and seal. It's easier to see where the high and low areas are on the metal too. If that plate is bent, it will need to be filed/sanded flat, tapped flat or replaced.
We aren't ready to talk about paint yet.
Yes, to positioning and holding the pump rod before you install the plate.
I have the sealer.
When I took he pump off I pushed the rod as far up as possible and put a longer bolt in that side hole to hold the push rod as far up as possible and in the position it was, was that wrong?
I will sand more today. I was using wet 220.
220 dry is good. Put some pressure on the plate to get the grit to dig in, we want to see the pattern.
I don't trust paint under a gasket not to break down over time and leak. To paint the plate, I cover the area where the pump goes with blue masking tape, except the pump arm hole, lightly bolt the pump on the plate using short bolts/nuts and then cut the tape around the pump with a sharp razor blade. Remove the pump and excess tape and paint.
If you position the engine at the #2 firing that should put the FP push rod in the most up and out of the way.
Pump, plate, gaskets, and Black RTV back in place. Now it’s wait and see until Iget the dash and wiring back in place.
i was lucky, the distributor was pointing to #2.
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 30th of March 2024 06:52:30 PM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 30th of March 2024 06:53:54 PM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 30th of March 2024 07:17:25 PM