What to use for installing 350 with aluminum heads, aluminum intake, & 2004r safely?
jim larson said
Dec 28, 2020
Looking for safe & problem free way to install. Trying to research best way while I am tied up with back issues. One problem is that heads don’t have accessories holes. I don’t think a carb bracket is a good idea with trans is on engine. I Wonder about water pump holes ( maybe two weak) if I remove the WP? what about removing intake bolts at the front and rear and attaching brackets through the intake into the heads? What about making brackets and attaching them through two of the trans mounting holes. I have heard that using the two extra tabs with holes on the 2004 R might snap them off if something gets bumped.
Planing to remove carb and distributor. And Starter if necessary. No fuel pump or line and no PS, exhaust, or alternator stuff. I really don’t want to split the engine and trans.
Lost in the 60s said
Dec 28, 2020
We can get longer 3/8 grade 8 bolts to replace the 4 corners of the intake and set it in with those.
Not an issue, done it before.
jim larson said
Dec 29, 2020
Lost in the 60s wrote:
We can get longer 3/8 grade 8 bolts to replace the 4 corners of the intake and set it in with those. Not an issue, done it before.
i was hoping that would work; but wondered if the bolts would stretch the threads in the aluminum heads. I read one article about using precision bolts. I have never heard of precision bolts, I think the article said something about fitting the threads better, so less likely to distort the threads.
Lost in the 60s said
Dec 29, 2020
Precision bolts are like machinist bolts. The threads are very precise, not like the assembly line crap coming from china.
Would like enough thread to reach the bottom of the thread in the head and bind it slightly, to know it's seated full thread length.
Precision/machinist bolts may be available from Fastenall if not in a hardware store.
Looking for safe & problem free way to install. Trying to research best way while I am tied up with back issues. One problem is that heads don’t have accessories holes. I don’t think a carb bracket is a good idea with trans is on engine. I Wonder about water pump holes ( maybe two weak) if I remove the WP? what about removing intake bolts at the front and rear and attaching brackets through the intake into the heads? What about making brackets and attaching them through two of the trans mounting holes. I have heard that using the two extra tabs with holes on the 2004 R might snap them off if something gets bumped.
Planing to remove carb and distributor. And Starter if necessary. No fuel pump or line and no PS, exhaust, or alternator stuff. I really don’t want to split the engine and trans.
Not an issue, done it before.
i was hoping that would work; but wondered if the bolts would stretch the threads in the aluminum heads. I read one article about using precision bolts. I have never heard of precision bolts, I think the article said something about fitting the threads better, so less likely to distort the threads.
Would like enough thread to reach the bottom of the thread in the head and bind it slightly, to know it's seated full thread length.
Precision/machinist bolts may be available from Fastenall if not in a hardware store.