Am I capable of trying this or do I need to have experienced help or hire someone?
jim larson said
Sep 26, 2020
I have been fighting a issue with the SS since I got it in 2004, pretty much eliminated, fuel, carb, distributor, and most other issues. Contemplating a cam change. Currently a Crane 284HE with operating range of 2400-6400. Should have changed when Mitch and I had the engine apart in around 2008. After driving the 66 blue convert this summer, I think I want to get rid of the chug-a-lug for anything under 2000rpm in the SS. Runs great at WOT or when rpm is at 2500 or above.
I feel confident on taking everything off or apart up until removing the cam from the engine and installing the new cam, timing change, reinstalling the lifters and intake. The rest I can put back together. Running the engine for the break-in also might be beyond me as I have never done it before or seen it done in person. Watching video's doesn't give me a lot of confidence.
Would there be anyone in the club that would be interested in lending a hand?
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 26, 2020
There are a few people who could help with that and may at a tech session type get together. pulling the cam out is about the only tricky part. You can get a handle that bolts on in place of the gear to slowly, carefully pull it out so as not to scratch the bearings. After that, it's feed the new one in the same way. Timing gears are cut and dry, unless you want to degree it in. Just remember, the marks on the gears are 180° off from #1 compression, for dropping the distributor back in.
jim larson said
Sep 27, 2020
Watch videos for about 4 hrs yesterday. Mostly on the install, nothing on removal of the old cam and the possibility of scoring the bearing about removal. The break-in procedure as it talks about the wear of a lobe is kind of scary. Then I starting reading about a roller cam and with no breaking in and match better performance. But that looks like about $800 more plus new pushrods, along with the cam button and shining. Would be a good tech session at a club meeting. Maybe I should concentrate on the SB build. Enough to keep me busy there along with the 2004R.
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 27, 2020
Cam break-in with proper break-in oil isn't as big a deal as some make it out to be.
Most important proponent is having the engine ready to start right away, no cranking endlessly for it to fire. That can wipe the assembly lube off the lobes and expose them to metal on metal.
67ss said
Sep 27, 2020
Typically on break in I also take out the inner valve spring if possible to lighten the spring pressure. Then reinstall it after the motor is broken in.
I have been fighting a issue with the SS since I got it in 2004, pretty much eliminated, fuel, carb, distributor, and most other issues. Contemplating a cam change. Currently a Crane 284HE with operating range of 2400-6400. Should have changed when Mitch and I had the engine apart in around 2008. After driving the 66 blue convert this summer, I think I want to get rid of the chug-a-lug for anything under 2000rpm in the SS. Runs great at WOT or when rpm is at 2500 or above.
I feel confident on taking everything off or apart up until removing the cam from the engine and installing the new cam, timing change, reinstalling the lifters and intake. The rest I can put back together. Running the engine for the break-in also might be beyond me as I have never done it before or seen it done in person. Watching video's doesn't give me a lot of confidence.
Would there be anyone in the club that would be interested in lending a hand?
Watch videos for about 4 hrs yesterday. Mostly on the install, nothing on removal of the old cam and the possibility of scoring the bearing about removal. The break-in procedure as it talks about the wear of a lobe is kind of scary. Then I starting reading about a roller cam and with no breaking in and match better performance. But that looks like about $800 more plus new pushrods, along with the cam button and shining. Would be a good tech session at a club meeting. Maybe I should concentrate on the SB build. Enough to keep me busy there along with the 2004R.
Most important proponent is having the engine ready to start right away, no cranking endlessly for it to fire. That can wipe the assembly lube off the lobes and expose them to metal on metal.
Typically on break in I also take out the inner valve spring if possible to lighten the spring pressure. Then reinstall it after the motor is broken in.