More odd things, there rotors are different per side. I have no experience with these type of rotors, Does the whole hub and rotor have to be removed together? How difficult to get rotor and hub separated? Is it worthwhile to just replace one caliper and both sets of pads? From looking at the internet the pass side was a pre Feb 1970 design and driver side is the later design. I see ss396 the pre Feb 70 design.
Right side is early original, left is later original.
Looks to be enough material for a light re-surface.
Rotors are 1 piece, take the whole rotor/hub and they can chuck it up in the lathe.
jim larson said
Jun 29, 2020
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Right side is early original, left is later original.
Looks to be enough material for a light re-surface.
Rotors are 1 piece, take the whole rotor/hub and they can chuck it up in the lathe.
Thanks, I will check with napa in town tomorrow. I did measure the total width. .964 and .940 driver and pass respectively. the .960 is the one that is not working the best. more pad wear on pass vs driver side also. Also a repo caliper on pass side where the piston look nice. however the piston on the original caliper on the drivers side is clean but you can see where the surface is rough probably do to rust before a rebuild. The boots look good. I don't want to put a lot of $ into the brakes at this time. Just would like them to work good. Maybe put a rebuild kit in the MC and clean up the booster in place.
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 29th of June 2020 08:54:57 PM
Parts are all for a 1970 caliper. The D-50 series were the same from 1969 thru, I believe, 1974
Getting stuck piston out is easy with compressed air and a 2x4 in the rotor location. Getting the piston started back in the boot and seal can be tricky without an installation sleeve. About 8 lbs of air in the hose hole and light pressure on the piston will flare the boot out and allow the piston to slip in. Lube the piston with brake fluid first. Once the boot is over the piston, remove the air and press in by hand as far as possible and center it. May need a c-clamp to get it to the bottom of the bore.
More odd things, there rotors are different per side. I have no experience with these type of rotors, Does the whole hub and rotor have to be removed together? How difficult to get rotor and hub separated? Is it worthwhile to just replace one caliper and both sets of pads? From looking at the internet the pass side was a pre Feb 1970 design and driver side is the later design. I see ss396 the pre Feb 70 design.
Right side is early original, left is later original.
Looks to be enough material for a light re-surface.
Rotors are 1 piece, take the whole rotor/hub and they can chuck it up in the lathe.
Thanks, I will check with napa in town tomorrow. I did measure the total width. .964 and .940 driver and pass respectively. the .960 is the one that is not working the best. more pad wear on pass vs driver side also. Also a repo caliper on pass side where the piston look nice. however the piston on the original caliper on the drivers side is clean but you can see where the surface is rough probably do to rust before a rebuild. The boots look good. I don't want to put a lot of $ into the brakes at this time. Just would like them to work good. Maybe put a rebuild kit in the MC and clean up the booster in place.
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 29th of June 2020 08:54:57 PM
napa brand rebuilt caliper https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CANN4591?partTypeName=Brake+Caliper+-+Front&keywordInput=front+brake+caliper
seal kit https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP524?partTypeName=Brake+Caliper+Boot+Kit+-+Front&keywordInput=front+brake+caliper
piston https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP85010S?partTypeName=Brake+Caliper+Piston+-+Front&keywordInput=front+brake+caliper
Parts are all for a 1970 caliper. The D-50 series were the same from 1969 thru, I believe, 1974
Getting stuck piston out is easy with compressed air and a 2x4 in the rotor location. Getting the piston started back in the boot and seal can be tricky without an installation sleeve. About 8 lbs of air in the hose hole and light pressure on the piston will flare the boot out and allow the piston to slip in. Lube the piston with brake fluid first. Once the boot is over the piston, remove the air and press in by hand as far as possible and center it. May need a c-clamp to get it to the bottom of the bore.
For $30, I just buy the rebuilt and move on...