Hi, I want to change the 7/8" front sway bar to a 1 1/4" from a TA in my Chevelle. I did this on my 66 SS and remember I had some issues. So was looking for any tips or help. I have watched a few videos and would like to know if this is the best method or if there are any other suggestions.
First put the car on jack stands and remove the tires. Then remove the end links (I was thinking of just using the original for the time being, probably stock replacements down the road).
2nd: Remove the sway bar brackets and bar , and then mount the new bar with the new brackets & bushings (I have Moog bushing which are some kind of synthetic rubber, so I don't use a lubricant, right?).
3rd: install the end links. If I remember correctly this is where I had to problem. One side when on fine; but other was too short. I think I took one bushing and bracket off and then installed the end link and then used a jack to raise the sway bar up so I could install the bracket/bushing I had removed. Or maybe put a jack under the wheel hub/brake drum to raise the control arm.
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:17:29 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:17:55 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:18:29 AM
Some how I got the wrong photo and can't get rid of it
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:19:15 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:22:34 AM
Put wheels/tires back on and set the front end on blocks.
Connect one side of the bar to the control arm. If the other side is too close or to fare away to connect, tip the car with the jack.
Tighten every thing with the weight in the front end.
jim larson said
May 23, 2020
Bobs_Place wrote:
Put the bar on with centers only, don't tighten.
Put wheels/tires back on and set the front end on blocks.
Connect one side of the bar to the control arm. If the other side is too close or to fare away to connect, tip the car with the jack.
Tighten every thing with the weight in the front end.
Not sure if this fits as it should. Seems the hole bar should move about 1/8“ to 1/4” to left to get top of end link nuts to be in the same position in relationship to bottom of nuts of upper ball joints.
Can you slide the bar over so the links are about the same on each side.
jim larson said
May 24, 2020
Bobs_Place wrote:
Can you slide the bar over so the links are about the same on each side.
No; but when I tightened thing up it looks much better. i still would like it to move more. The issue is the bushing on the pass side won’t move over as that is right where there is a bend in the bar. My other 66 also fits this way. Maybe some way to get pass side bushing & bracket real loose, then Move bar to left, then tighten drivers side bushing. Then tighten pass side.
Or make a bracket where the mounting holes are about 1/4” off center. I wonder if the TA frame is just a tase bit wider!
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 24th of May 2020 07:04:28 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 24th of May 2020 07:05:41 AM
Hi, I want to change the 7/8" front sway bar to a 1 1/4" from a TA in my Chevelle. I did this on my 66 SS and remember I had some issues. So was looking for any tips or help. I have watched a few videos and would like to know if this is the best method or if there are any other suggestions.
First put the car on jack stands and remove the tires. Then remove the end links (I was thinking of just using the original for the time being, probably stock replacements down the road).
2nd: Remove the sway bar brackets and bar , and then mount the new bar with the new brackets & bushings (I have Moog bushing which are some kind of synthetic rubber, so I don't use a lubricant, right?).
3rd: install the end links. If I remember correctly this is where I had to problem. One side when on fine; but other was too short. I think I took one bushing and bracket off and then installed the end link and then used a jack to raise the sway bar up so I could install the bracket/bushing I had removed. Or maybe put a jack under the wheel hub/brake drum to raise the control arm.
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:17:29 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:17:55 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:18:29 AM
Some how I got the wrong photo and can't get rid of it
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:19:15 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Saturday 23rd of May 2020 08:22:34 AM
Lets try again
Put the bar on with centers only, don't tighten.
Put wheels/tires back on and set the front end on blocks.
Connect one side of the bar to the control arm. If the other side is too close or to fare away to connect, tip the car with the jack.
Tighten every thing with the weight in the front end.
Not sure if this fits as it should. Seems the hole bar should move about 1/8“ to 1/4” to left to get top of end link nuts to be in the same position in relationship to bottom of nuts of upper ball joints.
Can you slide the bar over so the links are about the same on each side.
No; but when I tightened thing up it looks much better. i still would like it to move more. The issue is the bushing on the pass side won’t move over as that is right where there is a bend in the bar. My other 66 also fits this way. Maybe some way to get pass side bushing & bracket real loose, then Move bar to left, then tighten drivers side bushing. Then tighten pass side.
Or make a bracket where the mounting holes are about 1/4” off center. I wonder if the TA frame is just a tase bit wider!
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 24th of May 2020 07:04:28 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 24th of May 2020 07:05:41 AM