I had to peel the Mylar panels off a layer of Styrofoam insulation that was nailed to the girts to get down to them. The foam in between will stay.
I needed to notch the top of the beam for the joist but my circular saw only went 2.5" deep and the slot needs to be 4 3/8ths. The chain saw is plenty capable of chewing the wood out, but it took patience and care to get it decent.
The beam sits on the floor and is held to 3 of the girts with these brackets to prevent it from moving.
I got the other post notched and attached to the girts. Then made a 26' long joist from 16' and 10' 2x8's. Got that lifted up on the forklift and fit it the notches. NEXT set, I'm making the notch a little wider than 1.5", as I had to "convince" one side to drop in. Got out the new nail gun. It's a little heavy and awkward to haul up the ladder, with the hose, but MAN is that nice to be able to pull the trigger to sink a 3" nail without balancing on the ladder and hammering it in...
Figured you would use round dowels like the Amish and Mennonites.
The chain saw was a dead giveaway that was not the case. Looks like this project gave you another excuse to buy another tool (nailer)
Karl
Lost in the 60s said
May 18, 2020
more ambition than brains wrote:
Figured you would use round dowels like the Amish and Mennonites.
The chain saw was a dead giveaway that was not the case. Looks like this project gave you another excuse to buy another tool (nailer)
Karl
I don't have the patience to whittle away on wood, or fit dowel pegs...
My wrists, and shoulders are so worn from all the driving and mechanical work I've done my whole life, that hammering is fun for about 3 whacks and then stuff starts to hurt, so YES, valid excuse for another power tool. The nailer and 1,000 nails was only $88 at HB, so it's not a big dip out of the car parts fund... The shop upgrade, alone, will see that tool used a fair amount and I want to build a, much bigger, storage shed to keep all the lawn and yard equipment in. We have an old 8x10 now that will get replaced with a 12x18 with 5x8 divided for a potting/garden room for the wife. Gotta include her to get it past the funding committee...
Lost in the 60s said
May 18, 2020
Got the next pair of posts up. The first was a piece of cake, other than cutting out a section of the wind brace, the second....not so much. I had to work around the entrance door. I put an 8' beam on each side and cut a cross beam and the upright from a 12 footer. Had to lift that sucker onto the saw horses...
The door now looks like the entrance to a Mayan temple...
After a 3 hour fight, the wife and I finally got the new, stepped, joist in the post notches. She drove the forklift, while I tried everything I could think of to get it to clear the perlins and drop in the notch. It was too close to the ceiling. I got it to go in one end, but not the end over the door. She finally asked how much work it would be to remove the short post and raise that side back up and re-attach. It didn't take a lot, but lifting the joist and post back onto the crossbeam stretched my right arm 2" longer than the left.
Then I had to attach the 14' joist to the next truss, reinforce it and cut the center out. Got that done today. Good gawd, has it been HOT up in the ceiling the past few days !!!
I’m I understanding this that the notched joists are for clearing the garage door you are going to put in?
Lost in the 60s said
May 26, 2020
Yes, to get a 12' tall overhead door, I needed 13' and the building is 12'. A 12' ceiling will only accept a 10' door, or a custom built 11' door, that costs about 3 times as much as a standard height door. I learned all that when I had the new shed built last year. That building is 13'. I was online pricing a door to install myself and now learned the new joist I installed first, needs to be 3 ft further back from the stepped truss... Guess I'll be stepping that one back to the second truss for the tracks and opener... It's all a learn as I go process.
Not sure if this is the proper place for non-automotive "projects", but here it is.
I bought the first set of lumber to add more ceiling joists for strength and to modify the first one in for an overhead door.
I ne
ed to remove the fancy stuff on the wall to add the post.
Karl
I had to peel the Mylar panels off a layer of Styrofoam insulation that was nailed to the girts to get down to them. The foam in between will stay.
I needed to notch the top of the beam for the joist but my circular saw only went 2.5" deep and the slot needs to be 4 3/8ths. The chain saw is plenty capable of chewing the wood out, but it took patience and care to get it decent.
The beam sits on the floor and is held to 3 of the girts with these brackets to prevent it from moving.
I got the other post notched and attached to the girts. Then made a 26' long joist from 16' and 10' 2x8's. Got that lifted up on the forklift and fit it the notches. NEXT set, I'm making the notch a little wider than 1.5", as I had to "convince" one side to drop in. Got out the new nail gun. It's a little heavy and awkward to haul up the ladder, with the hose, but MAN is that nice to be able to pull the trigger to sink a 3" nail without balancing on the ladder and hammering it in...
Figured you would use round dowels like the Amish and Mennonites.
The chain saw was a dead giveaway that was not the case.
Looks like this project gave you another excuse to buy another tool (nailer)
Karl
I don't have the patience to whittle away on wood, or fit dowel pegs...
My wrists, and shoulders are so worn from all the driving and mechanical work I've done my whole life, that hammering is fun for about 3 whacks and then stuff starts to hurt, so YES, valid excuse for another power tool. The nailer and 1,000 nails was only $88 at HB, so it's not a big dip out of the car parts fund...
The shop upgrade, alone, will see that tool used a fair amount and I want to build a, much bigger, storage shed to keep all the lawn and yard equipment in. We have an old 8x10 now that will get replaced with a 12x18 with 5x8 divided for a potting/garden room for the wife. Gotta include her to get it past the funding committee...
Got the next pair of posts up. The first was a piece of cake, other than cutting out a section of the wind brace, the second....not so much. I had to work around the entrance door. I put an 8' beam on each side and cut a cross beam and the upright from a 12 footer. Had to lift that sucker onto the saw horses...
The door now looks like the entrance to a Mayan temple...
After a 3 hour fight, the wife and I finally got the new, stepped, joist in the post notches. She drove the forklift, while I tried everything I could think of to get it to clear the perlins and drop in the notch. It was too close to the ceiling. I got it to go in one end, but not the end over the door. She finally asked how much work it would be to remove the short post and raise that side back up and re-attach. It didn't take a lot, but lifting the joist and post back onto the crossbeam stretched my right arm 2" longer than the left.
Then I had to attach the 14' joist to the next truss, reinforce it and cut the center out. Got that done today. Good gawd, has it been HOT up in the ceiling the past few days !!!
I’m I understanding this that the notched joists are for clearing the garage door you are going to put in?
Yes, to get a 12' tall overhead door, I needed 13' and the building is 12'. A 12' ceiling will only accept a 10' door, or a custom built 11' door, that costs about 3 times as much as a standard height door. I learned all that when I had the new shed built last year. That building is 13'.
Guess I'll be stepping that one back to the second truss for the tracks and opener...
It's all a learn as I go process.
I was online pricing a door to install myself and now learned the new joist I installed first, needs to be 3 ft further back from the stepped truss...