So if a guy has a non-original (305 SBC) in their Chevelle, and not the 350 4BL it came with, how much more cost and work to just upgrade to a newer (more efficient, powerful and reliable) engine.
Not trying to have a restored car, what are the pro's and cons from you who have made the leap?
Asking for a friend
Derek69SS said
Apr 28, 2020
The cost/effort of an LS swap is a big hurdle. Whether it's worth it depends a lot on how much you plan to drive, and how much power you want to make... or how much of the work you can (and want to) do yourself. For a cruiser, you can just put an OD trans behind a mild smallblock and get the fuel economy without a lot of complexity.
I do enjoy that once it's "done" there's very little maintenance required with an LS engine. Lots of work up front, but then it's just key in one hole and gas in the other for a long time afterwards.
SShink said
Apr 28, 2020
Derek is the man in the know on this one regarding LT/LS engines Bruce.
I've investigated the LS swap thing, and while the engine itself is the 'cheap' part, it's all the other parts that add up fast; ECU modification, wiring harness, engine mounts, new oil pan, possibly the front accessory drive, in-tank fuel pump, etc.
I'm sure there's ways to do it on a budget for less, but I'm guessing $5K min. to do the LS swap, and that's just the well used 100K mile+ engine without any trans work.
I'm of the 200R4 for a trans, a 355 small block like I got from YearOne for $3K, a nice 3.42 rear gear, and you're set to go with a fun reliable combo. My two cents...
BLyke said
Apr 28, 2020
Thanks Derek and Stan!
I'll let my "friend" know.
maybe just grab a 350 close to the original when someone else decides to go with the LS Swap.
BTW I'm currently making a short trip back to the CAC, had to pull the intake manifold as it was leaking out the back.
Shocker, found more shoddy work by the PO, more on that later.
SShink said
Apr 28, 2020
BLyke wrote:
BTW I'm currently making a short trip back to the CAC, had to pull the intake manifold as it was leaking out the back. Shocker, found more shoddy work by the PO, more on that later.
I've got a couple of annoying small oil leaks on mine too Bruce after resealing. It's always something...are you going to try and have it back together to make the QA1 cruise in Lakeville Sat. morning? Tina and I are planning on going and maybe meet up with an old NCC member for the cruise.
Derek69SS said
Apr 29, 2020
I guess that's another advantage to the LS... they don't leak!
I did have a problem with the crank pulley loosening, which slung oil all over everything, but after fixing that, it's leak-free. :)
BLyke said
Apr 29, 2020
SShink wrote:
BLyke wrote:
BTW I'm currently making a short trip back to the CAC, had to pull the intake manifold as it was leaking out the back. Shocker, found more shoddy work by the PO, more on that later.
I've got a couple of annoying small oil leaks on mine too Bruce after resealing. It's always something...are you going to try and have it back together to make the QA1 cruise in Lakeville Sat. morning? Tina and I are planning on going and maybe meet up with an old NCC member for the cruise.
Sorry to say no, we will be out of town on Saturday. Glad to see some cruises starting up, it would be good to see some of the people from the club.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 29, 2020
BLyke wrote:
Thanks Derek and Stan! I'll let my "friend" know. maybe just grab a 350 close to the original when someone else decides to go with the LS Swap.
BTW I'm currently making a short trip back to the CAC, had to pull the intake manifold as it was leaking out the back. Shocker, found more shoddy work by the PO, more on that later.
I would encourage purchasing a new crate engine, like Stan did, from Year One over an used, probably unknown condition, engine, unless said used engine was less than 1k. He would be starting with a fresh engine, with a warranty and not needing a rebuild in a few years, as could happen with an used engine.
I'll, also, second the 200R4, if he can find one. I have the 3.42 rear gear too and highway cruising with the B&M converter controller makes for a very nice combo...
BLyke said
May 6, 2020
Well now that the seals have been replaced, valves adjusted as needed and the distributor cap replaced (one of the contact tabs had slipped down and resulted in the strange tick that started up a while ago), thinking I will be sticking with the 305 for now.
Turned out to be a good learning experience, which is nice.....
Derek69SS said
May 6, 2020
I spoke too soon on the no leaks thing... I have a PS fluid leak that's bad enough that there's fluid all over everything and ran the reservoir dry on the QA1 cruise, but not bad enough that I can find where it's coming from.
BLyke said
May 6, 2020
Derek69SS wrote:
I spoke too soon on the no leaks thing... I have a PS fluid leak that's bad enough that there's fluid all over everything and ran the reservoir dry on the QA1 cruise, but not bad enough that I can find where it's coming from.
Strange how that seems to happen?
SShink said
May 6, 2020
Derek69SS wrote:
I spoke too soon on the no leaks thing... I have a PS fluid leak that's bad enough that there's fluid all over everything and ran the reservoir dry on the QA1 cruise, but not bad enough that I can find where it's coming from.
I was behind you quite a bit of the QA1 cruise and didn't notice any spray or smoke from it burning off. It must have been pretty light. I followed John D. and Blackie once with my freshly painted '71 vert when he had a slight oil cooler leak, and the front of the Malibu had a film of oil on it, but I think it was a bigger leak than what you're describing.
Lost in the 60s said
May 7, 2020
Derek69SS wrote:
I spoke too soon on the no leaks thing... I have a PS fluid leak that's bad enough that there's fluid all over everything and ran the reservoir dry on the QA1 cruise, but not bad enough that I can find where it's coming from.
May need to drive it long enough for the oil to get hot. I've seen it purge out the reservoir cap when hot, but if you have the remote res, I'm sure you would see that at the source ? Have someone hold the brake pedal firmly to test the hydro boost under pressure too. Sounds like a pin hole in a hose or loose crimp producing a fine spray.
Derek69SS said
May 7, 2020
I'm thinking it might be a bad AN fitting or braided hose, only leaking when the pressure comes up with RPM when the pump spins faster since I can't find anything at idle.
Everything is wet along the drivers' side frame rail, suspension, even the inside of the front wheel is coated in fluid. I'm taking off the hydroboost and eliminating half the hoses while I wait for new tires to come in, so I'll get to the bottom of it sooner or later...
So if a guy has a non-original (305 SBC) in their Chevelle, and not the 350 4BL it came with, how much more cost and work to just upgrade to a newer (more efficient, powerful and reliable) engine.
Not trying to have a restored car, what are the pro's and cons from you who have made the leap?
Asking for a friend
I do enjoy that once it's "done" there's very little maintenance required with an LS engine. Lots of work up front, but then it's just key in one hole and gas in the other for a long time afterwards.
Derek is the man in the know on this one regarding LT/LS engines Bruce.
I've investigated the LS swap thing, and while the engine itself is the 'cheap' part, it's all the other parts that add up fast; ECU modification, wiring harness, engine mounts, new oil pan, possibly the front accessory drive, in-tank fuel pump, etc.
I'm sure there's ways to do it on a budget for less, but I'm guessing $5K min. to do the LS swap, and that's just the well used 100K mile+ engine without any trans work.
I'm of the 200R4 for a trans, a 355 small block like I got from YearOne for $3K, a nice 3.42 rear gear, and you're set to go with a fun reliable combo. My two cents...
I'll let my "friend" know.
maybe just grab a 350 close to the original when someone else decides to go with the LS Swap.
BTW I'm currently making a short trip back to the CAC, had to pull the intake manifold as it was leaking out the back.
Shocker, found more shoddy work by the PO, more on that later.
I've got a couple of annoying small oil leaks on mine too Bruce after resealing. It's always something...are you going to try and have it back together to make the QA1 cruise in Lakeville Sat. morning? Tina and I are planning on going and maybe meet up with an old NCC member for the cruise.
I did have a problem with the crank pulley loosening, which slung oil all over everything, but after fixing that, it's leak-free. :)
Sorry to say no, we will be out of town on Saturday. Glad to see some cruises starting up, it would be good to see some of the people from the club.
I would encourage purchasing a new crate engine, like Stan did, from Year One over an used, probably unknown condition, engine, unless said used engine was less than 1k. He would be starting with a fresh engine, with a warranty and not needing a rebuild in a few years, as could happen with an used engine.
I'll, also, second the 200R4, if he can find one. I have the 3.42 rear gear too and highway cruising with the B&M converter controller makes for a very nice combo...
Well now that the seals have been replaced, valves adjusted as needed and the distributor cap replaced (one of the contact tabs had slipped down and resulted in the strange tick that started up a while ago), thinking I will be sticking with the 305 for now.
Turned out to be a good learning experience, which is nice.....
Strange how that seems to happen?
I was behind you quite a bit of the QA1 cruise and didn't notice any spray or smoke from it burning off. It must have been pretty light. I followed John D. and Blackie once with my freshly painted '71 vert when he had a slight oil cooler leak, and the front of the Malibu had a film of oil on it, but I think it was a bigger leak than what you're describing.
May need to drive it long enough for the oil to get hot. I've seen it purge out the reservoir cap when hot, but if you have the remote res, I'm sure you would see that at the source ? Have someone hold the brake pedal firmly to test the hydro boost under pressure too. Sounds like a pin hole in a hose or loose crimp producing a fine spray.
I'm thinking it might be a bad AN fitting or braided hose, only leaking when the pressure comes up with RPM when the pump spins faster since I can't find anything at idle.
Everything is wet along the drivers' side frame rail, suspension, even the inside of the front wheel is coated in fluid. I'm taking off the hydroboost and eliminating half the hoses while I wait for new tires to come in, so I'll get to the bottom of it sooner or later...