Making new plug wires for the 442, so wondering if anyone has any tips/tricks on how to get the wire through a 90 degree boot easily before crimping on the connector?
I've tried WD40, silicone, etc. and it's still difficult.
Chris S said
Apr 13, 2020
I find it best to use carb spray or brake cleaner on rubber like that. You have to move fast because it dries fast but leaves no residue.
John D said
Apr 13, 2020
Maybe a dab of Dielectric grease... the same stuff I've put a dab in the boot before snapping them on... so they don't get "welded" to the porcelain in 6 months.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 13, 2020
John D wrote:
Maybe a dab of Dielectric grease... the same stuff I've put a dab in the boot before snapping them on... so they don't get "welded" to the porcelain in 6 months.
Dielectric grease, that was the name I was trying to come up with in my reply on the front end thread.
I see he gave up on the 90's and reused the straight boots. By the orientation of those to the head, I don't think he wants 90 anyway. Maybe a 45 degree boot. I have 3 sets of boots and ends for my Chevelle now, to get the angle where I want it for the headers ...
dashboard said
Apr 13, 2020
Don't laugh...KY Gel. Water based, cleans up easily, excellent lubricant. Got the tip from my urologist!
Enganeer said
Apr 13, 2020
Step 1 - Heat the boots up in ultra hot water,
Step 2 - Lube the wire / metal clip with dielectric grease
Step 3 - Palm the boot in the left hand with the opening facing to the right, with the right hand, hold the wire about 1" or less and stick the wire in the boot and keep pushing / rotating the wire back and forth with the until seated.
Repeat
Chris R said
Apr 13, 2020
Dialectric grease, petroleum jelly or Sil-Glide are what I have always used when I was a tech in the field and at home.
SShink said
Apr 14, 2020
Lost in the 60s wrote:
I see he gave up on the 90's and reused the straight boots. By the orientation of those to the head, I don't think he wants 90 anyway. Maybe a 45 degree boot. I have 3 sets of boots and ends for my Chevelle now, to get the angle where I want it for the headers ...
Thanks everyone for the tips. Sounds like I'm not the only one that struggles with these!
Mitch, the straight boots you saw in the pic of my table go on the engine end since Olds engineer's were smarter and put the plugs above the exhaust/headers, so easy access to them.
Related question, I watched a couple of YouTube videos for tips, and in one they stripped the black coating off the inner wire before bending over and crimping. I don't know that I've ever stripped the center conductor and they always seemed to work. Do you guys strip the inner conductor also?
SShink said
Apr 14, 2020
dashboard wrote:
Don't laugh...KY Gel. Water based, cleans up easily, excellent lubricant. Got the tip from my urologist!
I know you're being serious...but
Larry Lucast said
Apr 14, 2020
I was told to cut the end of the wire at a 45 degree angle so it follows the corner.
SShink said
Apr 14, 2020
Larry Lucast wrote:
I was told to cut the end of the wire at a 45 degree angle so it follows the corner.
Now that sounds like something to try. Thanks Larry!
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 15, 2020
SShink wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
I see he gave up on the 90's and reused the straight boots. By the orientation of those to the head, I don't think he wants 90 anyway. Maybe a 45 degree boot. I have 3 sets of boots and ends for my Chevelle now, to get the angle where I want it for the headers ...
Thanks everyone for the tips. Sounds like I'm not the only one that struggles with these!
Mitch, the straight boots you saw in the pic of my table go on the engine end since Olds engineer's were smarter and put the plugs above the exhaust/headers, so easy access to them.
Related question, I watched a couple of YouTube videos for tips, and in one they stripped the black coating off the inner wire before bending over and crimping. I don't know that I've ever stripped the center conductor and they always seemed to work. Do you guys strip the inner conductor also?
Ah, you need the cap ends on. Those boots are harder to bend straight to shove the wire thru. Larry's suggestion sounds helpful.
I usually buy a set with the cap boots finished and only cut to length on the plug end.
ALWAYS strip about 3/8" to bare and fold over under the terminal.
Making new plug wires for the 442, so wondering if anyone has any tips/tricks on how to get the wire through a 90 degree boot easily before crimping on the connector?
I've tried WD40, silicone, etc. and it's still difficult.
I find it best to use carb spray or brake cleaner on rubber like that. You have to move fast because it dries fast but leaves no residue.
Dielectric grease, that was the name I was trying to come up with in my reply on the front end thread.
I see he gave up on the 90's and reused the straight boots. By the orientation of those to the head, I don't think he wants 90 anyway. Maybe a 45 degree boot. I have 3 sets of boots and ends for my Chevelle now, to get the angle where I want it for the headers ...
Step 2 - Lube the wire / metal clip with dielectric grease
Step 3 - Palm the boot in the left hand with the opening facing to the right, with the right hand, hold the wire about 1" or less and stick the wire in the boot and keep pushing / rotating the wire back and forth with the until seated.
Repeat
Dialectric grease, petroleum jelly or Sil-Glide are what I have always used when I was a tech in the field and at home.
Thanks everyone for the tips. Sounds like I'm not the only one that struggles with these!
Mitch, the straight boots you saw in the pic of my table go on the engine end since Olds engineer's were smarter and put the plugs above the exhaust/headers, so easy access to them.
Related question, I watched a couple of YouTube videos for tips, and in one they stripped the black coating off the inner wire before bending over and crimping. I don't know that I've ever stripped the center conductor and they always seemed to work. Do you guys strip the inner conductor also?
I know you're being serious...but
Now that sounds like something to try. Thanks Larry!
Ah, you need the cap ends on. Those boots are harder to bend straight to shove the wire thru. Larry's suggestion sounds helpful.
I usually buy a set with the cap boots finished and only cut to length on the plug end.
ALWAYS strip about 3/8" to bare and fold over under the terminal.