Working on trying to clean most everything that was sprayed in the trunk of 66 wile I am replacing the metal on the lower part. Looks like I will be able to get a lot it off down to bare metal. I don’t think I will be able to do much with the area between the outer wheelhouse and the part of the wheel well of the quarter panel. Looks like they sprayed a lot of something like undercoat and then they spray a gray type trunk paint. I will have to cover what I can’t get off with something. Anyone run into something Similar to this? Or have any ideas?
it’s slow and tedious. I hope to get the quarters, the parts of the wheelhouse I can accesses, and the tail panel stripped in 6 -8 half days. Upper thunk is done. Then add up to another week for over estimating what I can get done. More pitchers in the project section.
-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 25th of March 2020 07:22:11 PM
That may have been the original installers intention, but it looks, and feels, like it was sprayed on with a spatter paint gun. Very course texture and thick in some places and tapers off to nothing in others.
I understand Jim's desire to remove it, but it seems Pandora has handed him a more time consuming job than replacing the floor...
Oh well, keeps him out of trouble during our "down" time around here.
more ambition than brains said
Mar 31, 2020
It has been a while. I think the caulk, sealant used on seams from the factory in the trunk was asphalt based. I am talking about the rear body to 1/4 and floor, floor to wheelhousings etc.
Try some lacquer thinner to clean, see if it dissolves.
Any bare metal areas should at a minimum be primed.
Look into the Zolatone product mentioned earlier, pretty sure it is water based, including the clear topcoat. It is also a Minnesota product.
I wish I had tried it on Biskwik. Used aerosol, did not clear, it peels and chips easily.
If you try to use a solvent based product the tar may bleed through
The aerosol I used was water based also.
Karl
jim larson said
Mar 31, 2020
Thanks Karl. The Parts Place has a product supposedly that is a zolatone product that does not need a clear as is it not water based according to there description. Supposedly original chevy colors from the 60's. Kevin C responded to another of my threads showing him spraying his truck just the other day.
Its in the project section under starting trunk repair.
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 31st of March 2020 04:22:50 PM
dashboard said
Mar 31, 2020
more ambition than brains wrote:
It has been a while. I think the caulk, sealant used on seams from the factory in the trunk was asphalt based. I am talking about the rear body to 1/4 and floor, floor to wheelhousings etc.
Try some lacquer thinner to clean, see if it dissolves.
Any bare metal areas should at a minimum be primed.
Look into the Zolatone product mentioned earlier, pretty sure it is water based, including the clear topcoat. It is also a Minnesota product.
I wish I had tried it on Biskwik. Used aerosol, did not clear, it peels and chips easily.
If you try to use a solvent based product the tar may bleed through
The aerosol I used was water based also.
Karl
Karl, I'll tell you everything I know about Zolatone in a couple sentences. The product I used Zolatone 20, is a Polychromatic, Modified Nitrocellulose coating, I have no idea what that means but I had to use a solvent to clean up, water will not mix with it. There is a Quick Step Catalyst, but it's use is optional, you may clear coat it but that is also optional. Once applied it is dry to the touch in two hours and fully cured in 5-7 days. It is applied directly out of the can no thinning, no shaking, stir only.
Once dry it's almost bulletproof and is very resistant to chemicals. If anyone is interested I'll post the Zolatine data sheet.
Jim, I have painted over factory undercoating using Rustoleum Enamel satin after scrubbing with soap and water on my 65 Buick and 72 Elky, it held up well.
Working on trying to clean most everything that was sprayed in the trunk of 66 wile I am replacing the metal on the lower part. Looks like I will be able to get a lot it off down to bare metal. I don’t think I will be able to do much with the area between the outer wheelhouse and the part of the wheel well of the quarter panel. Looks like they sprayed a lot of something like undercoat and then they spray a gray type trunk paint. I will have to cover what I can’t get off with something. Anyone run into something Similar to this? Or have any ideas?
it’s slow and tedious. I hope to get the quarters, the parts of the wheelhouse I can accesses, and the tail panel stripped in 6 -8 half days. Upper thunk is done. Then add up to another week for over estimating what I can get done. More pitchers in the project section.
-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 25th of March 2020 07:22:11 PM
I don’t think so
That may have been the original installers intention, but it looks, and feels, like it was sprayed on with a spatter paint gun. Very course texture and thick in some places and tapers off to nothing in others.
I understand Jim's desire to remove it, but it seems Pandora has handed him a more time consuming job than replacing the floor...
Oh well, keeps him out of trouble during our "down" time around here.
It has been a while.
I think the caulk, sealant used on seams from the factory in the trunk was asphalt based.
I am talking about the rear body to 1/4 and floor, floor to wheelhousings etc.
Try some lacquer thinner to clean, see if it dissolves.
Any bare metal areas should at a minimum be primed.
Look into the Zolatone product mentioned earlier, pretty sure it is water based, including the clear topcoat.
It is also a Minnesota product.
I wish I had tried it on Biskwik.
Used aerosol, did not clear, it peels and chips easily.
If you try to use a solvent based product the tar may bleed through
The aerosol I used was water based also.
Karl
Thanks Karl. The Parts Place has a product supposedly that is a zolatone product that does not need a clear as is it not water based according to there description. Supposedly original chevy colors from the 60's. Kevin C responded to another of my threads showing him spraying his truck just the other day.
Its in the project section under starting trunk repair.
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 31st of March 2020 04:22:50 PM
Karl, I'll tell you everything I know about Zolatone in a couple sentences. The product I used Zolatone 20, is a Polychromatic, Modified Nitrocellulose coating, I have no idea what that means but I had to use a solvent to clean up, water will not mix with it. There is a Quick Step Catalyst, but it's use is optional, you may clear coat it but that is also optional. Once applied it is dry to the touch in two hours and fully cured in 5-7 days. It is applied directly out of the can no thinning, no shaking, stir only.
Once dry it's almost bulletproof and is very resistant to chemicals. If anyone is interested I'll post the Zolatine data sheet.
Jim, I have painted over factory undercoating using Rustoleum Enamel satin after scrubbing with soap and water on my 65 Buick and 72 Elky, it held up well.