Removing rust residue embed in rubber trunk weather strip
jim larson said
Feb 18, 2020
Fortunately the channel is in good shape after sanding and removing rust that has built up over the last 25 years or so. The weather strip is in good shape with the exception of rust that is kind of embedded into the weather strip. I washed with dawn and a 3m abrasive strip and there is kind of a rust embedded in some of the weather stripping. I wonder if there is a product to remove the residue??
I was thinking of using the pad again; but this time with it dipped in muriatic acid. What do you guys think of this? I think the muriatic acid that comes in a plastic bottle will not harm the rubber weather stripping. Is there another product that I could use that you would think might do the trick?
Lost in the 60s said
Feb 20, 2020
I would be very cautious of using an acid on rubber/foam and having it soak in. It could react with the new paint and break it down over time.
Larry Lucast said
Feb 20, 2020
Good point. I know there are organic rust removers which are water soluble, and advertised as safe on gaskets.
SShink said
Feb 21, 2020
Not being snarky, but why try to reuse it when a new one is $25: LINK TO WEATHER STRIP
jim larson said
Feb 21, 2020
I ended up using BartendersBestFriend and steel wool. Yes $25 plus ship, plus tax. My $100 hood repair has turned into $1000. That extra $40 will buy me a new tool to help with the trunk repair.
more ambition than brains said
Feb 22, 2020
Jim,
Agree with Stan, spend your time and money on something truly productive.
Note, ALL projects creep both in time and $$, just part of the deal.
The only thing you can get done on a hood for $100.00 might be PDRing one dent, maybe, or paying someone to polish and wax itmaybe
Sometimes trying to save $$ costs more in time and effort than it is worth.
(end of rant)
Glad you found a solution, it is still the journey that provides us the true pleasure of this Hobby!
Karl
jim larson said
Feb 23, 2020
Hood is completely stripped and was painted in epoxy primer last Friday. The paint camera has found a color with a 1.0 match, evidently anything with a 2.0 or less is suppose to be a good match. The painter will do a couple of spray outs and fine tune from there. The weather stripping cleaned up fine with minimal effort and is in excellent condition and is a replacement (maybe in late 90’s).
The trunk weather strip channel was in excellent condition except for the very back 5’ with some surface rust. If the car was to be repainted now that area would have to be completely taken down to bare metal and refinished. I did remove all rust from that area then applied a rust converter and then put the weatherstripping back in.
The $100 figure was just an emphasis figure not realistic. I paid $450 to fix 1 paint fracture on the top of my SS hood along with stripping the bottom and repainting the bottom.
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 23rd of February 2020 09:18:47 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 23rd of February 2020 09:40:28 AM
Fortunately the channel is in good shape after sanding and removing rust that has built up over the last 25 years or so. The weather strip is in good shape with the exception of rust that is kind of embedded into the weather strip. I washed with dawn and a 3m abrasive strip and there is kind of a rust embedded in some of the weather stripping. I wonder if there is a product to remove the residue??
I was thinking of using the pad again; but this time with it dipped in muriatic acid. What do you guys think of this? I think the muriatic acid that comes in a plastic bottle will not harm the rubber weather stripping. Is there another product that I could use that you would think might do the trick?
Not being snarky, but why try to reuse it when a new one is $25: LINK TO WEATHER STRIP
I ended up using BartendersBestFriend and steel wool. Yes $25 plus ship, plus tax. My $100 hood repair has turned into $1000. That extra $40 will buy me a new tool to help with the trunk repair.
Jim,
maybe
Agree with Stan, spend your time and money on something truly productive.
Note, ALL projects creep both in time and $$, just part of the deal.
The only thing you can get done on a hood for $100.00 might be PDRing one dent, maybe, or paying someone to polish and wax it
Sometimes trying to save $$ costs more in time and effort than it is worth.
(end of rant)
Glad you found a solution, it is still the journey that provides us the true pleasure of this Hobby!
Karl
Hood is completely stripped and was painted in epoxy primer last Friday. The paint camera has found a color with a 1.0 match, evidently anything with a 2.0 or less is suppose to be a good match. The painter will do a couple of spray outs and fine tune from there. The weather stripping cleaned up fine with minimal effort and is in excellent condition and is a replacement (maybe in late 90’s).
The trunk weather strip channel was in excellent condition except for the very back 5’ with some surface rust. If the car was to be repainted now that area would have to be completely taken down to bare metal and refinished. I did remove all rust from that area then applied a rust converter and then put the weatherstripping back in.
The $100 figure was just an emphasis figure not realistic. I paid $450 to fix 1 paint fracture on the top of my SS hood along with stripping the bottom and repainting the bottom.
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 23rd of February 2020 09:18:47 AM
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 23rd of February 2020 09:40:28 AM
That $450.00 was a superior value.
The flat rate just to paint outside of hood is 4-5 hours.
Underside 1-1.5 hours.
That is for a new undamaged panel.
Lets call it 5 hours total
58.00 per hour labor x 5= $290.00
Plus $38.00 per paint hour material allowance, 5X $38.00=$190.00 + tax = $13.54
Total=$493.54 Meaning any special preparation, repairs were done for free.
Plus that is for single stage, not clearcoat, one color not two if underside is black.
Hug your painter, take good care of him.
Looks like you have some body repair to address, love this hobby.
Keep up posts on progress, also, I am monitoring your fuel line thread with interest as we have a similar problem on the white Elky!
Karl
Nice job on the equations Karl