After I broke two old valve springs ( maybe original ), in 2004 I replaced all my valve springs and also put on new rocker nuts. Don’t remember wher I got them. Well on the way home from the all gm show the car developed a fairly Loud tick/ noise.
just pulled the valve cover off thinking a loose tapped or a broken spring. Lucky, a nut on #2 was loose and if I tighten by HAND the noise went away. I think I should have jus used the old nuts.
Well, do I just use an old nut from years ago or buy a new replacement nut? Thinking the old may be better than a new nut.
Some place I saw a spec for the rocker arm adjusting nut torque but can't find it now. I would find one that requires much more torque or buy new.
Lost in the 60s said
Jun 16, 2019
I would thread the old nut 2/3rds of the depth on a bolt. Clamp it in a vise and use a center punch to stack the top bevel on 3 sides to be certain it will bind hard enough on the threads to stay put, at least for a while. Those nuts were known to back off after time anyway, but the new one shouldn't turn by hand.
jim larson said
Jun 23, 2019
Well I am back from my CA fishing trip and ready to installed the nut and rocker arm to get the car up and running. I threaded the nut on the rocker arm stud just to see how tight it goes on. I think when it get the the installed position it feels more loose then when first threading on the top of the stud. I am thinking maybe the stud also need to be replaced. Is this a possible issue rather than the nut. I have some almost new studs I could replaced the stud with and then a new or reconditioned nut.
I think I should also check the lash on the other nuts on cylinder 2,4,6, and 8. Do I need to remove the nuts and push rods and start all over or can I just tighten the nuts until the push rods won't spin and then tighten the nuts one addition turn as it states in the service manual for 66? The push rods spin now in the adjusting position for the valves to be adjusted along with the #2 exhaust.
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 23rd of June 2019 01:39:08 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Jun 23, 2019
Sounds like the stud replacement is a good idea. That non-running setting of the rockers is just a good starting point for an engine that has been disassembled. It still needs to be running to get them set properly, in my opinion.
jim larson said
Jun 24, 2019
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Sounds like the stud replacement is a good idea. That non-running setting of the rockers is just a good starting point for an engine that has been disassembled. It still needs to be running to get them set properly, in my opinion.
thanks for commenting Mitch. Well I replaced the stud and the re-punched rocker nut and tried to adjust the valves by tightening the nut until the push rod will not spin. Then 3/4 of a turn. Must have done something wrong, runs poorly. I am not sure what I did wrong or how to identify which cylinder is missing. I think at least 2 cylinders are missing. Maybe I didn't have the engine rotated to #6 firing position properly. I had the engine warmed up, maybe I shouldn't have done that.
So I am back to square 1, how do I make sure I am at the number 6 firing position., If rockers on 6 don't move as I come up to TDC? I am on the passenger side and don't want to use the number 1 firing position as a starting point. I will then set the lash on the appropriate valves, by rotating pushrod until it doesn't spin and turn 1/2 move turn. Then rotate engine one full turn. Is that right (book says 1 turn)? After adjusting the lash by this method, the methods say to lossen nut until year hear tappet noise an then adjust 1/4, then1/8 until the noise disappears. But I guess my ears are not that good or I don't know what I am listening for. So can I just go with the 1/2 turn after the push rod will not spin? By spin do they mean easily spin or after working at it for a while I can turn the push rod?
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 24th of June 2019 06:32:26 PM
jim larson said
Jun 24, 2019
Well I just got through adjusting the lash only 3/8 of a turn after the push rod would not spin. I will start the engine tomorrow and see what happens. Maybe there is not a space getting to one or more of the cylinders.
If the engine doesn't run, maybe thats the problem. Is there a good method of checking the spark for each cylinder?
Lost in the 60s said
Jun 24, 2019
I have always found it's too easy to over-tighten the valves with the "spin" method. I always have the engine running. Without oil pressure, some of the lifter pistons will allow the push rod to spin until it bottoms in the lifter bore and then the valve won't close once pressure pushes the piston up again. I have a special valve cover cut in half to contain the oil and there are clips to put on the rocker to keep the oil from spraying out the push rod hole.
jim larson said
Jun 25, 2019
From my experience there would be a market for the cut up valve cover. I tried to use cardboard and made a mess. I have an old rusty valve cover I can cut up and use. Good tip.
i think I will back off the valves the 3/8 or 1/4 turn I made using the spin methods and just see how it runs and if the tappers are noisy. Then try to adjust to reduce or creat noise and then adjust.
Lost in the 60s said
Jun 25, 2019
The part of your "method" you refer to above as turning out until a tapping sound and then tighten, is running. Once I have loosened until one clicks, I turn down slowly until it just stops and then continue 3/4 turn to center the piston in the lifter bore. Aftermarket lifters could require a different amount of preload...
jim larson said
Jun 25, 2019
Lost in the 60s wrote:
The part of your "method" you refer to above as turning out until a tapping sound and then tighten, is running. Once I have loosened until one clicks, I turn down slowly until it just stops and then continue 3/4 turn to center the piston in the lifter bore. Aftermarket lifters could require a different amount of preload...
Thats the method I would like to learn; but I think I have to do it with an experienced person looking over my shoulder. I have read to tighten 5/8 to 3/4 in 1/4 increments with a 10 second wait between increments. I see they is a guy who makes and markets valve cover with holes drilled in them to adjust the nuts and then rubber plugs to close the holes.
I settled with turning back 1/4 of a turn from my initial 5/8 turn. So I am at 1/8 turn from no spin of the pushrod. Car seems to fun fine and no tappet noise. Best to leave things alone for a while at least until I become more knowledgeable. This is an photo of his small block valve cover.
Lost in the 60s said
Jun 25, 2019
Center mounting stud, small block cover. I have a big block cover here. We can find a day that you aren't fishing.... and run it up and go thru this with you.
jim larson said
Jun 26, 2019
Sounds good and maybe I can help you on your 66 or some other project as you are always very busy.
After I broke two old valve springs ( maybe original ), in 2004 I replaced all my valve springs and also put on new rocker nuts. Don’t remember wher I got them. Well on the way home from the all gm show the car developed a fairly Loud tick/ noise.
just pulled the valve cover off thinking a loose tapped or a broken spring. Lucky, a nut on #2 was loose and if I tighten by HAND the noise went away. I think I should have jus used the old nuts.
Well, do I just use an old nut from years ago or buy a new replacement nut? Thinking the old may be better than a new nut.
Some place I saw a spec for the rocker arm adjusting nut torque but can't find it now. I would find one that requires much more torque or buy new.
Well I am back from my CA fishing trip and ready to installed the nut and rocker arm to get the car up and running. I threaded the nut on the rocker arm stud just to see how tight it goes on. I think when it get the the installed position it feels more loose then when first threading on the top of the stud. I am thinking maybe the stud also need to be replaced. Is this a possible issue rather than the nut. I have some almost new studs I could replaced the stud with and then a new or reconditioned nut.
I think I should also check the lash on the other nuts on cylinder 2,4,6, and 8. Do I need to remove the nuts and push rods and start all over or can I just tighten the nuts until the push rods won't spin and then tighten the nuts one addition turn as it states in the service manual for 66? The push rods spin now in the adjusting position for the valves to be adjusted along with the #2 exhaust.
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 23rd of June 2019 01:39:08 PM
Sounds like the stud replacement is a good idea. That non-running setting of the rockers is just a good starting point for an engine that has been disassembled. It still needs to be running to get them set properly, in my opinion.
thanks for commenting Mitch. Well I replaced the stud and the re-punched rocker nut and tried to adjust the valves by tightening the nut until the push rod will not spin. Then 3/4 of a turn. Must have done something wrong, runs poorly. I am not sure what I did wrong or how to identify which cylinder is missing. I think at least 2 cylinders are missing. Maybe I didn't have the engine rotated to #6 firing position properly. I had the engine warmed up, maybe I shouldn't have done that.
So I am back to square 1, how do I make sure I am at the number 6 firing position., If rockers on 6 don't move as I come up to TDC? I am on the passenger side and don't want to use the number 1 firing position as a starting point. I will then set the lash on the appropriate valves, by rotating pushrod until it doesn't spin and turn 1/2 move turn. Then rotate engine one full turn. Is that right (book says 1 turn)? After adjusting the lash by this method, the methods say to lossen nut until year hear tappet noise an then adjust 1/4, then1/8 until the noise disappears. But I guess my ears are not that good or I don't know what I am listening for. So can I just go with the 1/2 turn after the push rod will not spin? By spin do they mean easily spin or after working at it for a while I can turn the push rod?
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 24th of June 2019 06:32:26 PM
Well I just got through adjusting the lash only 3/8 of a turn after the push rod would not spin. I will start the engine tomorrow and see what happens. Maybe there is not a space getting to one or more of the cylinders.
If the engine doesn't run, maybe thats the problem. Is there a good method of checking the spark for each cylinder?
From my experience there would be a market for the cut up valve cover. I tried to use cardboard and made a mess. I have an old rusty valve cover I can cut up and use. Good tip.
i think I will back off the valves the 3/8 or 1/4 turn I made using the spin methods and just see how it runs and if the tappers are noisy. Then try to adjust to reduce or creat noise and then adjust.
Thats the method I would like to learn; but I think I have to do it with an experienced person looking over my shoulder. I have read to tighten 5/8 to 3/4 in 1/4 increments with a 10 second wait between increments. I see they is a guy who makes and markets valve cover with holes drilled in them to adjust the nuts and then rubber plugs to close the holes.
I settled with turning back 1/4 of a turn from my initial 5/8 turn. So I am at 1/8 turn from no spin of the pushrod. Car seems to fun fine and no tappet noise. Best to leave things alone for a while at least until I become more knowledgeable. This is an photo of his small block valve cover.
Center mounting stud, small block cover. I have a big block cover here. We can find a day that you aren't fishing..
.. and run it up and go thru this with you.
Sounds good and maybe I can help you on your 66 or some other project as you are always very busy.