BB oil pan gasket install using adhesive and guides for bolts video
jim larson said
Mar 10, 2019
It seem this video would recommend a cork gasket over the one piece rubber gasket and it uses spray adhesive to anchor the gasket to the block before installing the oil pan. What do you think about the procedure as well as using a 4 piece gasket as opposed to a 1 piece rubber gasket. I also looked at a video where the 1 piece rubber gasket had metal inserts where the bolts went. Do people recommend you run the engine on an engine stand to make sure there are no oil leaks before installing engine in the car. I know my brother after rebuilding an airplane engine runs it for 16 hr continuous, then checks for oil leaks and everything else before certifying the engine.
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 10th of March 2019 05:05:27 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 11, 2019
In my book, the one piece gaskets have proven their ability to seal better and longer, when installed properly, than the old cork, 4 piece system and I will continue to use them.
It's always a good idea to run a fresh engine on a stand before install, to mitigate any issues while the engine is out.
Are you planning to pull the engine again ? Is it leaking ?
jim larson said
Mar 11, 2019
I am planning to use some of that UV leak detector to see if I can located exactly where the leak is coming from. This cold snow filled winter has given me to much time to think. I am thinking that I may pull the engine next winter to fix the oil leaks; but its not a big leak. I am also playing with the ideal of roller rockers and maybe a had roller cam and lifters. I thought the leak was coming from the rear main; but I took the starter part way out so I could loosen the inspection plate and it looks like the leak is from the area where the starter bolts to the block, which is quite higher than the bottom of the rear seal area, as that area was quite wet along with the bottom of the starter and some oil running down the passenger side of inside of the inspection cover down to the bottom of the inspection cover and onto the floor. I used a one piece seal when I had to engine out in 06.
Bobs_Place said
Mar 11, 2019
The 4 piece could be leak free if installed correctly, however with the one piece your chances for a leak free pan to block joint are much better, also over the long term. A lot of these new style gasket are concerted reusable, but for the amount of work invested I would not reuse them.
Have you checked the back of the intake manifold or rear of the valve cover for leaks?
jim larson said
Mar 11, 2019
I will check that, could I be that lucky?
jim larson said
Mar 11, 2019
Just back from fishing which was poor. It is a little dirty at the rear of the intake on the bell housing. But not much if any oil appears to be leaking there. Valve covers also look pretty good. I would say 10% chance it is from the rear main and 90% a leak at the pan gasket near the starter mounting area; but there is a slight pitch to the engine so it could be running down from the front of the pan along the edge. I did use a fel pro gasket, one piece rubber, maybe I tightened it too much, or something odd. It has been leaking ever since i reinstalled the engine. I must be getting tired of all this snow, etc and overthinking to much.
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 12, 2019
Clean the pan rail very well all the way from the front to the back, so you can tell where the leak is originating from before you take anything apart.
Have you tried snugging the pan bolts, to see if any have worked loose ?
Front timing cover bolts loose ? Front seal leaking ? There is usually oil thrown around the front of the pan, if that seal leaks.
There are also plugs on the back of the block for the lifter oil rail that could be leaking. They are threaded and may not have been tightened with sealer.
jim larson said
Mar 13, 2019
I just started cleaning everything yesterday. The I was going to use the UV leak detector on first startup this spring, if spring ever gets here. I didn't know about the lifter valley plugs, I assume can't really see those. Thanks
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 14, 2019
Yes, the plugs are on the back, behind the flywheel.
There is also a welch plug on the cam bore back there that can leak, if not installed properly too.
Big hole in the top, center is cam bore and the 2 small threaded holes are lifter galley plugs.
jim larson said
Mar 14, 2019
Thanks Mitch, I did not do anything with those holes. I see where if they leak it could run down and seep out between the bell-housing and block onto the starter. No fix to that unless you pull the engine or transmission, clutch, flywheel, and bell housing.
Just finished cleaning up the engine yesterday, I think the next step is to do a little touch-up painting on the intake, finish cleaning the remaining part of the engine bay, add some leak detection oil, then wait for warmer weather.
It seem this video would recommend a cork gasket over the one piece rubber gasket and it uses spray adhesive to anchor the gasket to the block before installing the oil pan. What do you think about the procedure as well as using a 4 piece gasket as opposed to a 1 piece rubber gasket. I also looked at a video where the 1 piece rubber gasket had metal inserts where the bolts went. Do people recommend you run the engine on an engine stand to make sure there are no oil leaks before installing engine in the car. I know my brother after rebuilding an airplane engine runs it for 16 hr continuous, then checks for oil leaks and everything else before certifying the engine.
search
-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 10th of March 2019 05:05:27 PM
It's always a good idea to run a fresh engine on a stand before install, to mitigate any issues while the engine is out.
Are you planning to pull the engine again ? Is it leaking ?
I am planning to use some of that UV leak detector to see if I can located exactly where the leak is coming from. This cold snow filled winter has given me to much time to think. I am thinking that I may pull the engine next winter to fix the oil leaks; but its not a big leak. I am also playing with the ideal of roller rockers and maybe a had roller cam and lifters. I thought the leak was coming from the rear main; but I took the starter part way out so I could loosen the inspection plate and it looks like the leak is from the area where the starter bolts to the block, which is quite higher than the bottom of the rear seal area, as that area was quite wet along with the bottom of the starter and some oil running down the passenger side of inside of the inspection cover down to the bottom of the inspection cover and onto the floor. I used a one piece seal when I had to engine out in 06.
The 4 piece could be leak free if installed correctly, however with the one piece your chances for a leak free pan to block joint are much better, also over the long term. A lot of these new style gasket are concerted reusable, but for the amount of work invested I would not reuse them.
Have you checked the back of the intake manifold or rear of the valve cover for leaks?
I will check that, could I be that lucky?
Just back from fishing which was poor. It is a little dirty at the rear of the intake on the bell housing. But not much if any oil appears to be leaking there. Valve covers also look pretty good. I would say 10% chance it is from the rear main and 90% a leak at the pan gasket near the starter mounting area; but there is a slight pitch to the engine so it could be running down from the front of the pan along the edge. I did use a fel pro gasket, one piece rubber, maybe I tightened it too much, or something odd. It has been leaking ever since i reinstalled the engine. I must be getting tired of all this snow, etc and overthinking to much.
Have you tried snugging the pan bolts, to see if any have worked loose ?
Front timing cover bolts loose ? Front seal leaking ? There is usually oil thrown around the front of the pan, if that seal leaks.
There are also plugs on the back of the block for the lifter oil rail that could be leaking. They are threaded and may not have been tightened with sealer.
I just started cleaning everything yesterday. The I was going to use the UV leak detector on first startup this spring, if spring ever gets here. I didn't know about the lifter valley plugs, I assume can't really see those. Thanks
Yes, the plugs are on the back, behind the flywheel.
There is also a welch plug on the cam bore back there that can leak, if not installed properly too.
Big hole in the top, center is cam bore and the 2 small threaded holes are lifter galley plugs.
Thanks Mitch, I did not do anything with those holes. I see where if they leak it could run down and seep out between the bell-housing and block onto the starter. No fix to that unless you pull the engine or transmission, clutch, flywheel, and bell housing.
Just finished cleaning up the engine yesterday, I think the next step is to do a little touch-up painting on the intake, finish cleaning the remaining part of the engine bay, add some leak detection oil, then wait for warmer weather.