The forum's getting a little sleepy with the winter blues, so thought I'd throw out this little project that a couple of club members helped me with (you know who you are...).
The passenger side diff bushing in the Malibu is completely shot, so when I replace it I'm taking the opportunity to refurb an extra set of upper axle control arms I had laying around. After having the arms sand blasted, I hit the insides with some metal etching primer then some Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint.
We cut some 16 ga metal to box them in, then they were welded up.
After that we installed the bushings, so all I have left to do is paint them once I get the garage warmed up again. Hopefully by May or so...
I have a set of standard lowers here you can have, if you want/need to build them up to swap out too.
SShink said
Feb 21, 2019
Lost in the 60s wrote:
I have a set of standard lowers here you can have, if you want/need to build them up to swap out too.
Thanks Mitch.
I have two standard sets of lowers as well. I snagged a set of factory boxed lowers I want to install, but noticed one of them has both bushing holes oval'd out from what looks like an impact to that side of the axle. I think I might be able to heat it up to make them round again, but not sure so I'll post some pics and get the opinions from you guys.
Lost in the 60s said
Feb 21, 2019
If that arm is hit hard enough to mis-shape the bushing holes, it's most likely bent too. Lay it top of another good one and compare them. I would be hesitant to use it.
Larry I don't think 64-67 chassis parts are the same since they were different size frames?
Mitch, I think you're right that the one with the oval'd side is bent compared to the other one. See the pic with the gap between them (oval'd on top) when stacked on top of each other.
The only thing I'm not sure of is the oval'd side is where the bushing presses through after going through the other side which is not oval'd, so not sure if the bushing would be loose on the oval'd side. Maybe that's why Kevin found the control arm with a tack weld on it...
I'm going to check with Denny at ACC to see if he sells the complete control arm individually, or only in pairs. I know they sell the pairs for $190 for the set.
Lower arms are the same, upper arms are longer on 64-67.
Lost in the 60s said
Feb 22, 2019
That arm is trash.
Why not buy the inserts and convert standard arms ? You can have the arms I have..
That has to be less expensive than complete arms and are the aftermarket as strong as original ? Seems most of what is sold is a thinner gauge metal.
SShink said
Feb 22, 2019
Just confirmed, Denny only sells pairs.
I have two other sets of stock non-boxed ones. I just need to decide if I want to deal with the boxing inserts, bushings, sandblasting, painting, etc. By the time I go through all that, the $190 looks pretty good.
I have a stock rear sway bay sitting on the shelf is the other reason I want to get the boxed lowers in.
jim larson said
Feb 22, 2019
I bought the inserts and boxed my lower arms and added a rear sway bar. I think it was well worth it. I have seen where others have boxed the upper arms like you. I guess I didn't know if I would ever go to adjustable upper arms.
I had to replace one of my front lower control arms because it had cracked by the ball joint and been welded up by a previous owner. I think if I ever have the front arms off again, I would box a set of extra front CA that I have. I have seen a few posts on the internet on how to do that. However at my age i don't drive the car to hard.
Glad to see your using the new heated garage.
Bobs_Place said
Feb 22, 2019
I agree with Mitch the one is bad, but I also think the other arm is not much better. I have a set of arms, both have an oval end or two, got them with a sway bar. I think as the arms get rusty and the bushing gets warn, than through in some wheel hop,braking, pot holes or what ever and there you go.
If the repo's are in fact thinner I would fix up some originals.
Lost in the 60s said
Feb 22, 2019
Summit sells OPG brand inserts for $20...half of what OPG gets.
I just ordered 2 sets...
SShink said
Mar 10, 2019
So I decided to buy them from ACC rather than mess with the inserts. I guess if I was retired and had nothing else to do I would have probably boxed them myself.
They are made by DII (Dynacorn in Taiwan), and interestingly the bushings were tack welded like we discussed when Kevin posted his question about tack welding bushings.
The forum's getting a little sleepy with the winter blues, so thought I'd throw out this little project that a couple of club members helped me with (you know who you are...).
The passenger side diff bushing in the Malibu is completely shot, so when I replace it I'm taking the opportunity to refurb an extra set of upper axle control arms I had laying around. After having the arms sand blasted, I hit the insides with some metal etching primer then some Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint.
We cut some 16 ga metal to box them in, then they were welded up.
After that we installed the bushings, so all I have left to do is paint them once I get the garage warmed up again. Hopefully by May or so...
Thanks Mitch.
I have two standard sets of lowers as well. I snagged a set of factory boxed lowers I want to install, but noticed one of them has both bushing holes oval'd out from what looks like an impact to that side of the axle. I think I might be able to heat it up to make them round again, but not sure so I'll post some pics and get the opinions from you guys.
If that arm is hit hard enough to mis-shape the bushing holes, it's most likely bent too. Lay it top of another good one and compare them. I would be hesitant to use it.
Thanks guys.
Larry I don't think 64-67 chassis parts are the same since they were different size frames?
Mitch, I think you're right that the one with the oval'd side is bent compared to the other one. See the pic with the gap between them (oval'd on top) when stacked on top of each other.
The only thing I'm not sure of is the oval'd side is where the bushing presses through after going through the other side which is not oval'd, so not sure if the bushing would be loose on the oval'd side. Maybe that's why Kevin found the control arm with a tack weld on it...
I'm going to check with Denny at ACC to see if he sells the complete control arm individually, or only in pairs. I know they sell the pairs for $190 for the set.
That arm is trash.
Why not buy the inserts and convert standard arms ? You can have the arms I have..
That has to be less expensive than complete arms and are the aftermarket as strong as original ? Seems most of what is sold is a thinner gauge metal.
Just confirmed, Denny only sells pairs.
I have two other sets of stock non-boxed ones. I just need to decide if I want to deal with the boxing inserts, bushings, sandblasting, painting, etc. By the time I go through all that, the $190 looks pretty good.
I have a stock rear sway bay sitting on the shelf is the other reason I want to get the boxed lowers in.
I bought the inserts and boxed my lower arms and added a rear sway bar. I think it was well worth it. I have seen where others have boxed the upper arms like you. I guess I didn't know if I would ever go to adjustable upper arms.
I had to replace one of my front lower control arms because it had cracked by the ball joint and been welded up by a previous owner. I think if I ever have the front arms off again, I would box a set of extra front CA that I have. I have seen a few posts on the internet on how to do that. However at my age i don't drive the car to hard.
Glad to see your using the new heated garage.
I agree with Mitch the one is bad, but I also think the other arm is not much better. I have a set of arms, both have an oval end or two, got them with a sway bar. I think as the arms get rusty and the bushing gets warn, than through in some wheel hop,
braking, pot holes or what ever and there you go.
If the repo's are in fact thinner I would fix up some originals.
Summit sells OPG brand inserts for $20...half of what OPG gets.
I just ordered 2 sets...
So I decided to buy them from ACC rather than mess with the inserts. I guess if I was retired and had nothing else to do I would have probably boxed them myself.
They are made by DII (Dynacorn in Taiwan), and interestingly the bushings were tack welded like we discussed when Kevin posted his question about tack welding bushings.
Carefully measure the bolt holes on each side and see if they are parallel with one another. That bushing flange isn't pressed firmly against the arm.