Thought I'd start a new thread on the Year One Power Crate 350 install in case anyone is interested in this option as a reasonably priced crate engine. I saved $200 on it and paid for the $65 of drop it in my garage shipping by buying gift certificates during the Holidays, and they were very easy to work with.
Engine Specifications: * Horsepower: 400+ * Torque: 400+ ft/lbs * Compression ratio: 9.7:1 * Includes 8" balancer & 14" flexplate * Dyno sheet: Included with engine's output * Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM * Recommended fuel: 92 octane * Max recommended RPM- 5800 * Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron * Crankshaft: OE cast iron * Pistons: Hypereutectic * Connecting rods: Powdered metal * Camshaft- Hydraulic roller with YearOne proprietary specifcations * Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio * Cylinder heads: Ported Dart Iron Vortec * Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh * Valve springs: Heavy duty * Bore x Stroke: 4.04" x 3.48" * Intake manifold: Pro Products Crosswind Dual-plane aluminum * Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included * Engine fasteners: High tensile strength * Warranty: 12 mth/12,000 mi
It's built by ATK Engines and shipped from Texas. They don't publish the roller cam specs, but ATK has a similar 350 HP engine with cam specs of 220/224 @050 .495in/.502ex 112LSA, so I'm guessing this one is similar but probably a little more aggressive to get to 400 HP. Advertised vacuum at idle is 12 inches, so should still be good for the AC and power brakes.
I did have to buy a new disty with a melonized gear for the roller cam, water pump, and some associated fittings that went with the engine I sold, but nothing major.
Just got a text from the freight company this morning, and it's going to be delivered on Monday between 10a.m.-3 p.m., which is two weeks earlier than originally communicated! Now if the Jan. thaw will just hang around awhile I might have to think about getting on with cleaning up the engine bay, painting the engine Chevy orange, and stabbing it in. Or, wait until March when it will be warmer for sure without heat in the garage.
67ss said
Jan 4, 2019
I suspect they are using the Gm hot cam in this engine with the fact of the 1.6 rocker arms. Bryan’s engine made about the same numbers with the hot cam and ported vortec heads. The hot cam if I remember is 224/224 duration and 525/525 lift with 1.6 rockers.
SShink said
Jan 5, 2019
I think you're spot on Chris P. I followed Bryan once in his Chevelle going to the Anoka show, and remember I really liked how his car sounded. Hopefully, mine will be similar. It's not all about the sound, but it's a part of the experience.
Larry Lucast said
Jan 6, 2019
Since the advent of YouTube, whenever I am planning an engine build, I make a preliminary design, then search YouTube just to listen to one running.
SShink said
Jan 6, 2019
Larry Lucast wrote:
Since the advent of YouTube, whenever I am planning an engine build, I make a preliminary design, then search YouTube just to listen to one running.
Great minds think alike Larry. Trust me, I've been all over the internet finding any YR1 crate 350 videos or clips to listen to.
SShink said
Jan 7, 2019
The new heartbeat has arrived! The truck showed up over lunch, and while the driver wasn't happy helping me pull it up the driveway on the pallet jack (supposed to be 'end of driveway' drop off, so I get it that he probably wasn't supposed to help me), it's in the garage now.
Everything looks o.k. so far from the shipping, and the included dyno sheet shows Peak Torque at 432 ft. lbs and Peak HP at 402. The good news on the torque is that at 3000 RPM it's almost 400 ft. lbs. and peaks at 4300 rpm, so a nice flat torque band in the mid RPM range. Should be a well behaved street engine with plenty of torque.
They did share the roller cam specs on the sheet included with the engine as follows; 220/224 @50 .528in/.536ex on 112LSA. So Chris P., you were pretty darn close.
Makes as much torque as the 383 did. Can't wait to here it run.
Lost in the 60s said
Jan 7, 2019
Um, you paid $65 for lift gate door delivery and the driver wasn't happy he had to help drag it up the driveway ? He should have backed up and dropped it in your door.
Good to see it got there all safe and sound.
Jon H said
Jan 11, 2019
New garage walls, new engine, a great start to the new year!
SShink said
Mar 10, 2019
Since it FINALLY got over 30 degrees outside, I heated up the garage and did a bunch of engine and parts, so the engine is pretty close to being ready to drop in. Now I need a day in the 40's to power wash the engine bay on the car so that I can paint that next.
I did find the tensile strength limits of the cheap brass oil gauge adapter and snapped it off inside the block. Luckily an easy out took it right out and I had a spare that I didn't torque as much, so all is good. Chris P. and Chris S. would have been proud of me that I over torqued it, since when I pulled the 383, I found a lot of fasteners that weren't as tight as they should have been. One of the pics shows the broken adapter.
Felt good making some progress again.
Sorry for the sideways pics...I can't figure out how to rotate them. They're correct in my pic files, but the site is flipping them.
More progress today thanks to some warm weather around 50 degrees and 'working from home'.
Ran the garden hose upstairs from the hot water heater so that the water was good and hot, mixed in some soap, and I had pre-soaked things with Purple Power degreaser, and things came off pretty well. I've got a little degreasing by hand to do, and some wire brushing, but shouldn't be too big of a job.
I did find a few nuts from some previous inhabitants, so that was interesting...
The thing I was VERY happy about is i took the stainless strip at the bottom of the windshield by the wipers off with a large fear of finding big rust holes, but it was 99% solid! What rust was there was very minimal, and surface only. I'll throw some rusty metal primer there when I'm painting the engine bay and will hit it with the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint I'm using. Also looks like someone made a swan out of the seam sealer. Must have been a Friday afternoon assembly. lol
Hope to get it completely prepped tomorrow and at least the large areas painted.
Great news Stan. If you’re under the hood of a muscle car spring must be must be close.
SShink said
Apr 15, 2019
Spent some quality time with the Malibu this weekend huffing paint fumes while getting the engine bay ready to hopefully drop in the engine later this week.
I'm not sure which makes more sense whether to take everything apart to clean/paint or do it in place that required a ton of masking and crawling in and out of the engine bay.
I decided to install the rain/dust shields on the inner fenders, and while pleased with the outcome, man that was a pain drilling the holes and bending the staples underneath! This is the first Chevelle I've had in a long time with the shields in place, but I do like how it cleans up the engine compartment.
On my 66 in addition to the shields for the control arms they also had shields for between the inner fenders and the frame. Years can be different. Does yours also have those shields?
BLyke said
Apr 15, 2019
The dust shields look good! when is the transplant scheduled for?
69SSConv said
Apr 15, 2019
I agree! When I did mine, I remember it being very slow and tedious work. Can't say I want to do it again.
SShink said
Apr 15, 2019
BLyke wrote:
The dust shields look good! when is the transplant scheduled for?
Hopefully later this week/weekend.
SShink said
Apr 15, 2019
jim larson wrote:
On my 66 in addition to the shields for the control arms they also had shields for between the inner fenders and the frame. Years can be different. Does yours also have those shields?
No shields between the inner fender and frame. There's a gap there of up to 1/4", so not very well sealed.
SShink said
Apr 21, 2019
She's running on ship's power now! Took an extra day off this week and got it up and running Friday afternoon. Had some help from the northside Chris team, so appreciate that guys.
I've got about 35 miles on the break in so far, and really like how it's running. The little bit I got on it felt even stronger than the 383, so happy about that too. Now that I have good vacuum for brakes, I found the next weakest link as now one of the drums is pulling to the right. Need to get the front disk conversion done next.
Now it's time to get the rest of the break in miles on it for the next oil change.
Looks great sounds great! Thirty-five miles, looks like you’re the first out this spring.
bowtie said
Apr 24, 2019
Sounds good Stan!
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 25, 2019
The brake pulling could be rust. The drums rust and will pull until they get cleaned off.
Sounds very similar to the "other" engine, so you didn't lose much power...
SShink said
Apr 26, 2019
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Sounds very similar to the "other" engine, so you didn't lose much power...
Went for another drive last night, and only 50 miles left before the 200 mile oil/filter change, then I can really find out. I've only had it up to a little over 4000 rpm a few times per the break in instructions. Gotta say, this engine is as strong, if not stronger, than the 383 with better throttle response and the torque curve just seems in a better place as it just keeps pulling.
Thought I'd start a new thread on the Year One Power Crate 350 install in case anyone is interested in this option as a reasonably priced crate engine. I saved $200 on it and paid for the $65 of drop it in my garage shipping by buying gift certificates during the Holidays, and they were very easy to work with.
Here's a link to it: Year One Crate 350 Link
Here's the engine specs:
Engine Specifications:
* Horsepower: 400+
* Torque: 400+ ft/lbs
* Compression ratio: 9.7:1
* Includes 8" balancer & 14" flexplate
* Dyno sheet: Included with engine's output
* Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
* Recommended fuel: 92 octane
* Max recommended RPM- 5800
* Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
* Crankshaft: OE cast iron
* Pistons: Hypereutectic
* Connecting rods: Powdered metal
* Camshaft- Hydraulic roller with YearOne proprietary specifcations
* Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
* Cylinder heads: Ported Dart Iron Vortec
* Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
* Valve springs: Heavy duty
* Bore x Stroke: 4.04" x 3.48"
* Intake manifold: Pro Products Crosswind Dual-plane aluminum
* Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
* Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
* Warranty: 12 mth/12,000 mi
It's built by ATK Engines and shipped from Texas. They don't publish the roller cam specs, but ATK has a similar 350 HP engine with cam specs of 220/224 @050 .495in/.502ex 112LSA, so I'm guessing this one is similar but probably a little more aggressive to get to 400 HP. Advertised vacuum at idle is 12 inches, so should still be good for the AC and power brakes.
I did have to buy a new disty with a melonized gear for the roller cam, water pump, and some associated fittings that went with the engine I sold, but nothing major.
Just got a text from the freight company this morning, and it's going to be delivered on Monday between 10a.m.-3 p.m., which is two weeks earlier than originally communicated!
Now if the Jan. thaw will just hang around awhile I might have to think about getting on with cleaning up the engine bay, painting the engine Chevy orange, and stabbing it in. Or, wait until March when it will be warmer for sure without heat in the garage.
I suspect they are using the Gm hot cam in this engine with the fact of the 1.6 rocker arms. Bryan’s engine made about the same numbers with the hot cam and ported vortec heads. The hot cam if I remember is 224/224 duration and 525/525 lift with 1.6 rockers.
I think you're spot on Chris P. I followed Bryan once in his Chevelle going to the Anoka show, and remember I really liked how his car sounded. Hopefully, mine will be similar. It's not all about the sound, but it's a part of the experience.
Great minds think alike Larry. Trust me, I've been all over the internet finding any YR1 crate 350 videos or clips to listen to.
The new heartbeat has arrived! The truck showed up over lunch, and while the driver wasn't happy helping me pull it up the driveway on the pallet jack (supposed to be 'end of driveway' drop off, so I get it that he probably wasn't supposed to help me), it's in the garage now.
Everything looks o.k. so far from the shipping, and the included dyno sheet shows Peak Torque at 432 ft. lbs and Peak HP at 402. The good news on the torque is that at 3000 RPM it's almost 400 ft. lbs. and peaks at 4300 rpm, so a nice flat torque band in the mid RPM range. Should be a well behaved street engine with plenty of torque.
They did share the roller cam specs on the sheet included with the engine as follows; 220/224 @50 .528in/.536ex on 112LSA. So Chris P., you were pretty darn close.
Makes as much torque as the 383 did. Can't wait to here it run.
Good to see it got there all safe and sound.
Since it FINALLY got over 30 degrees outside, I heated up the garage and did a bunch of engine and parts, so the engine is pretty close to being ready to drop in. Now I need a day in the 40's to power wash the engine bay on the car so that I can paint that next.
I did find the tensile strength limits of the cheap brass oil gauge adapter and snapped it off inside the block. Luckily an easy out took it right out and I had a spare that I didn't torque as much, so all is good. Chris P. and Chris S. would have been proud of me that I over torqued it, since when I pulled the 383, I found a lot of fasteners that weren't as tight as they should have been. One of the pics shows the broken adapter.
Felt good making some progress again.
Sorry for the sideways pics...I can't figure out how to rotate them. They're correct in my pic files, but the site is flipping them.
More progress today thanks to some warm weather around 50 degrees and 'working from home'.
Ran the garden hose upstairs from the hot water heater so that the water was good and hot, mixed in some soap, and I had pre-soaked things with Purple Power degreaser, and things came off pretty well. I've got a little degreasing by hand to do, and some wire brushing, but shouldn't be too big of a job.
I did find a few nuts from some previous inhabitants, so that was interesting...
The thing I was VERY happy about is i took the stainless strip at the bottom of the windshield by the wipers off with a large fear of finding big rust holes, but it was 99% solid!
What rust was there was very minimal, and surface only. I'll throw some rusty metal primer there when I'm painting the engine bay and will hit it with the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint I'm using. Also looks like someone made a swan out of the seam sealer. Must have been a Friday afternoon assembly. lol
Hope to get it completely prepped tomorrow and at least the large areas painted.
Great news Stan. If you’re under the hood of a muscle car spring must be must be close.
Spent some quality time with the Malibu this weekend huffing paint fumes while getting the engine bay ready to hopefully drop in the engine later this week.
I'm not sure which makes more sense whether to take everything apart to clean/paint or do it in place that required a ton of masking and crawling in and out of the engine bay.
I decided to install the rain/dust shields on the inner fenders, and while pleased with the outcome, man that was a pain drilling the holes and bending the staples underneath! This is the first Chevelle I've had in a long time with the shields in place, but I do like how it cleans up the engine compartment.
On my 66 in addition to the shields for the control arms they also had shields for between the inner fenders and the frame. Years can be different. Does yours also have those shields?
I agree! When I did mine, I remember it being very slow and tedious work. Can't say I want to do it again.
Hopefully later this week/weekend.
No shields between the inner fender and frame. There's a gap there of up to 1/4", so not very well sealed.
She's running on ship's power now! Took an extra day off this week and got it up and running Friday afternoon. Had some help from the northside Chris team, so appreciate that guys.
I've got about 35 miles on the break in so far, and really like how it's running. The little bit I got on it felt even stronger than the 383, so happy about that too. Now that I have good vacuum for brakes, I found the next weakest link as now one of the drums is pulling to the right. Need to get the front disk conversion done next.
Now it's time to get the rest of the break in miles on it for the next oil change.
Here's a video of it idling:
The brake pulling could be rust. The drums rust and will pull until they get cleaned off.
Sounds very similar to the "other" engine, so you didn't lose much power...
Went for another drive last night, and only 50 miles left before the 200 mile oil/filter change, then I can really find out. I've only had it up to a little over 4000 rpm a few times per the break in instructions. Gotta say, this engine is as strong, if not stronger, than the 383 with better throttle response and the torque curve just seems in a better place as it just keeps pulling.