I've got a co-worker that is wondering about POR-15.
He's got some stone chips on the wheel openings of his truck that have rust-bubbled and crawled to the "face" of the body. The quote from his bodyshop was $$$$, and didn't imply a guarantee the rust wouldn't return.
The shop gave the suggestion of treating the rust (DIY) with some POR-15, and installing some aftermarket flares to cover up the paint damage.
I've never used POR-15. My understanding is that you need to use their "prep" stuff, then apply the actual paint product. Is this necessary?
What's the deal with POR-15... curious minds want to know.
Jon H said
Apr 25, 2018
There is a prep to use but it is just a liquid, probably an acid type wash. POR is amazing stuff, you MUST wear gloves. If it stays on the metal as well as skin, wow. I have used it on a couple of floors of cars I have owned. I had considerable rust on one side, cleaned it up, prepped and painted with no sign of rust or metal deterioration after many years. It is extremely hard, I don't know if you could chip it with a hammer. Your friends problem is it would probably rust through from the back side and with no metal as a base it would be useless. I don't know about painting both side if it would necessarily stop rust progression. I can say with a good base it is an or amazing product.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 25, 2018
Is the truck a Chevrolet and the damage at the rear openings ? Very common on these trucks and sad to say GM hasn't been bothered to do anything to prevent it from happening for 20 years. Dodge seems to have a similar issue. Once he has used a converter on the outside and painted it, his best defense to stop it from further rusting from inside is to spray oil up in the seam and let it seap down into the rust. On my Chevs, I was able to reach up from under both front and rear. Some people drill holes in the inner house and then put a plastic plug in the hole. He doesn't need big flares either. My 2000 had smaller, stainless "eyebrows" that covered the rust for many years. I bought a set for my 2011 too...
They are visible in this pic.
Dave Seitz said
Apr 26, 2018
POR15 is something else that's for sure. I sandblasted and painted parts with POR15, it had a couple of runs and bubbles in the finish.
Three days after painting I tried to re-sandblast the part, nope not happening with that. It had cured and was hard as a rock, had to
torch the part to soften it up. After all that work then it could be blasted and painted. ONLY brush on that stuff I have no idea how to
clean a spray gun with that stuff.
Larry Lucast said
Apr 26, 2018
I believe POR 15 is a rust encapsulater, which means you must seal every bit of the rust. There are also rust converter products which react with the rust to turn it into something else. They are both good. I have used POR 15 for years with great results. I believe Eastwood sells converters.
Jon H said
Apr 26, 2018
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Is the truck a Chevrolet and the damage at the rear openings ? Very common on these trucks and sad to say GM hasn't been bothered to do anything to prevent it from happening for 20 years. Dodge seems to have a similar issue.
I guess you should have bought a Ford Mitch!!
-- Edited by Jon H on Thursday 26th of April 2018 07:17:05 PM
bowtie said
Apr 26, 2018
I used it on my floors (inside) before lining them with hush mat/dynamat. I used the sample kit for the front and another for the back the following winter. It comes with a cleaner, a metal prep, and the coating, plus gloves and an applicator. It was cheap and like people have mentioned, it hardens. I would use it again on things like control arms, and suspension stuff if restoration appearance wasn't an issue. It's relatively glossy but doesn't look like a nice paint when cured.
It's pretty common for vehicle flippers and use car lots to add flares over the rusty wheel wells.
Chris R said
Apr 26, 2018
I used it in 1999 on the front section of my chassis, all 4 control arms and a bunch of other items and it looked pretty good. I blasted everything and used a wire wheel on a drill to clean up the metal on the frame before applying it per instructions. I thought it came out very nice and looked pretty good actually. I also used the topcoat to help against fading in sunlight since the frame would be exposed when the hood is open. I drove the snot out of that car up until 2006 and it never showed any signs of chipping or coming off.
POR changed their formula sometime in the mid to late 2010's from what I understand though so I'm not sure how well it works now. KBS coatings still makes (or gets the original formula stuff) and is very reasonably priced
Tony Hoffer said
May 11, 2018
I painted the entire bottom of the DisAstre with it...
These are the things I learned before applying.
If you have blasted the part you will need to etch it with their prep to have a surface for it to bond to. You can see it starts to rust almost immediately after application.
Do not apply more than two coats and do not let it dry completely between coats.
It will require a topcoat .. its not UV resistant.
I've got a co-worker that is wondering about POR-15.
He's got some stone chips on the wheel openings of his truck that have rust-bubbled and crawled to the "face" of the body. The quote from his bodyshop was $$$$, and didn't imply a guarantee the rust wouldn't return.
The shop gave the suggestion of treating the rust (DIY) with some POR-15, and installing some aftermarket flares to cover up the paint damage.
I've never used POR-15. My understanding is that you need to use their "prep" stuff, then apply the actual paint product. Is this necessary?
What's the deal with POR-15... curious minds want to know.
Is the truck a Chevrolet and the damage at the rear openings ? Very common on these trucks and sad to say GM hasn't been bothered to do anything to prevent it from happening for 20 years. Dodge seems to have a similar issue. Once he has used a converter on the outside and painted it, his best defense to stop it from further rusting from inside is to spray oil up in the seam and let it seap down into the rust. On my Chevs, I was able to reach up from under both front and rear. Some people drill holes in the inner house and then put a plastic plug in the hole.
He doesn't need big flares either. My 2000 had smaller, stainless "eyebrows" that covered the rust for many years. I bought a set for my 2011 too...
They are visible in this pic.
Three days after painting I tried to re-sandblast the part, nope not happening with that. It had cured and was hard as a rock, had to
torch the part to soften it up. After all that work then it could be blasted and painted. ONLY brush on that stuff I have no idea how to
clean a spray gun with that stuff.
I guess you should have bought a Ford Mitch!!
-- Edited by Jon H on Thursday 26th of April 2018 07:17:05 PM
It's pretty common for vehicle flippers and use car lots to add flares over the rusty wheel wells.
I used it in 1999 on the front section of my chassis, all 4 control arms and a bunch of other items and it looked pretty good. I blasted everything and used a wire wheel on a drill to clean up the metal on the frame before applying it per instructions. I thought it came out very nice and looked pretty good actually. I also used the topcoat to help against fading in sunlight since the frame would be exposed when the hood is open. I drove the snot out of that car up until 2006 and it never showed any signs of chipping or coming off.
POR changed their formula sometime in the mid to late 2010's from what I understand though so I'm not sure how well it works now. KBS coatings still makes (or gets the original formula stuff) and is very reasonably priced
I painted the entire bottom of the DisAstre with it...
These are the things I learned before applying.
If you have blasted the part you will need to etch it with their prep to have a surface for it to bond to. You can see it starts to rust almost immediately after application.
Do not apply more than two coats and do not let it dry completely between coats.
It will require a topcoat .. its not UV resistant.
Its a mess. dress appropriately