Pretty sure it is in t is in my shop now, along with a really ugly cowl hood.
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 20, 2018
Well, it looked like a decent deal for someone..
He could've used the cowl hood too.
I haven't seen, or heard anything from Darren about his car for some time now.
BLyke said
Mar 20, 2018
the Hood will be a fine place to hone my panel splicing skills. There was a lot of mud covering some very poor metal work. Worst case i will pick up a new flat one cheap, Best case i will finally go slow enough welding, and with the right gap to come out just right and have a nice cowl hood
-- Edited by BLyke on Tuesday 20th of March 2018 07:42:47 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 20, 2018
I've seen that hood for sale somewhere, maybe it was cl... Butt welding panels is painstaking and I try hard to fit mine for no gap. Welding shrinks metal and only makes a gap worse for warping.
BLyke said
Mar 20, 2018
it was on CL for a while, initially at a crazy price.
so are you saying 0 gap and a perfect fit is the ideal?
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 20, 2018
That's what I shoot for. It's hard enough to control burn thru with a small/tight gap. Trying to fill a gap is only harder.
"perfect" isn't really achievable, but the closer you can get it, the better. Letting it cool between trigger pulls is important, or the panel will expand and bind at the seam and warp.
BLyke said
Mar 21, 2018
thanks
planning to go super slow with lots of time to cool
Bobs_Place said
Mar 22, 2018
If you have a gap and you can get behind the area you are welding, hold or clamp a piece of copper behind the area to be welded. It works as a heat sink, less chance of blowing through. I use an old piece of copper tube, flatten or shape as needed, It work well if you can get the copper tight to the sheet metal.
BLyke said
Mar 22, 2018
thanks for the tip
4-door Chevelle said
May 1, 2018
Shoot. Didn't see this until now. I have been super busy finishing a room in my basement AND working on the Chevelle as I will be driving her this summer! Post and pics to come. Thanks for thinking of me!!!
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/d/1970-chevelle-dash-wiring/6533277407.html
Well, it looked like a decent deal for someone..
He could've used the cowl hood too.
I haven't seen, or heard anything from Darren about his car for some time now.
the Hood will be a fine place to hone my panel splicing skills. There was a lot of mud covering some very poor metal work.
Worst case i will pick up a new flat one cheap, Best case i will finally go slow enough welding, and with the right gap to come out just right and have a nice cowl hood
-- Edited by BLyke on Tuesday 20th of March 2018 07:42:47 PM
I've seen that hood for sale somewhere, maybe it was cl...
Butt welding panels is painstaking and I try hard to fit mine for no gap. Welding shrinks metal and only makes a gap worse for warping.
so are you saying 0 gap and a perfect fit is the ideal?
"perfect" isn't really achievable, but the closer you can get it, the better. Letting it cool between trigger pulls is important, or the panel will expand and bind at the seam and warp.
planning to go super slow with lots of time to cool
If you have a gap and you can get behind the area you are welding, hold or clamp a piece of copper behind the area to be welded. It works as a heat sink, less chance of blowing through. I use an old piece of copper tube, flatten or shape as needed, It work well if you can get the copper tight to the sheet metal.