Has anyone installed the Breakerless SE ignition kit?
jim larson said
Sep 12, 2017
A little more expensive; but it looks like the simplest installation. And it seems you can use original factory tacks and ignition coils. A one wire system and no messing with resister wire.
Thanks Chris, When I talked to guy out in Phoenix a couple of winter ago, he also recommend a guy by the name of Dave Ray.
I think this kit is a little different than what you did?
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 12th of September 2017 08:32:23 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 13, 2017
Being it is Hall effect, it should be reliable. I'm not a fan of the 2 piece shutter wheel, as they can be putzy to install under the rotor and I did have one come loose years ago. I prefer the Pertronix III conversion and matching high output coil. I'm not aware that anyone has noticed the 2 wires coming out of the distributor, rather than 1, and have never had anyone comment on them.
Getting a 45,000 volt coil and opening the plugs up makes a very noticeable improvement in starting and off idle running. Installing the SE and leaving the stock coil will get more dependability. Not certain it will improve starting, as it appears the 12v power would still come from the starter solenoid, rather than direct 12 volts from the fuse block.
jim larson said
Sep 13, 2017
I kind of want to stay with the original coil. And want to use the KK tack without any issues. Also don't want to mess with any resistance wire problem and where did you run the second wire on the pentroix III?
Is there a kit available with a one piece shutter wheel? I did see something in the instruction about adjustment of the two piece wheel.
-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 13th of September 2017 09:34:39 AM
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 13, 2017
The power for the Pertronix comes from a spade on the fuse box marked "ignition". It provides full 12 volts to the coil/electronic breaker in both "start" and "run" positions of the key. You need to run a separate wire for that. You don't use the resistance wire and you remove the "start" wire from the starter solenoid to prevent back feed. The 2 wires on the electronic control in the distributor only go to the coil + and -. The power feed wire also goes on the + side of the coil, so it is all very discrete and unnoticeable at the back of the engine. I don't have a factory tach, but use a Sun Super with no issues. The sensing wire comes right off the + side of the coil, like original.
I have never seen a 1 piece shutter wheel, but I haven't looked either...
Forgot, the Pertronix coil I buy is black and I turn the label to the rear. It looks like an original coil when installed.
This pic shows the coil. You can see the 2 wires from the distr. The distributor is a new Pertronix with cast aluminum body to look original.
-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Wednesday 13th of September 2017 10:36:41 AM
jim larson said
Sep 13, 2017
Thanks again Mitch. I haven't changed points in about 10 yrs, (no issues with starting and dwell seems to stay at 28 degree) but was thinking it might be time to go to a breakerless system. i agree most people don't know the difference between the single wire and two wire system or the correct distributor, cap, or hold down clamp. My distributor is cast painted black, I thought they went to aluminum in 67. My tack runs off the neg on the coil.
It looks like the pentronix III has a rev limiter where the SE does not. I guess I have two much time to think about winter projects, unlike you.
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 13, 2017
jim larson wrote:
Thanks again Mitch. I haven't changed points in about 10 yrs, (no issues with starting and dwell seems to stay at 28 degree) but was thinking it might be time to go to a breakerless system. i agree most people don't know the difference between the single wire and two wire system or the correct distributor, cap, or hold down clamp. My distributor is cast painted black, I thought they went to aluminum in 67. My tack runs off the neg on the coil.
It looks like the pentronix III has a rev limiter where the SE does not. I guess I have two much time to think about winter projects, unlike you.
Yup, you're right, the tach goes to neg. I'm old and confused...
A little more expensive; but it looks like the simplest installation. And it seems you can use original factory tacks and ignition coils. A one wire system and no messing with resister wire.
http://www.breakerless.com/faqs.htm#What's%20included%20in%20the%20kit?
https://www.corvettemods.com/C2-Corvette-1963-1967-Breakerless-SE-Ignition-Kit_p_16624.html
http://www.breakerless.com/seinstruct081304.pdf
It may be worth the $160
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 12th of September 2017 08:21:54 PM
You can buy it directly from this place.
https://www.lectriclimited.com/breakerless-se-electronic-ignition-conversion-85200
Personally I would look into getting one from this guy.
http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/
I have converted some myself like the daves small body hei. If you dig up my old posts I am sure I put some pictures of the ones I have done.
Here is a link to my post.
http://northstarchevelles.activeboard.com/t50674410/interesting-points-distributor-conversion-method/
Thanks Chris, When I talked to guy out in Phoenix a couple of winter ago, he also recommend a guy by the name of Dave Ray.
I think this kit is a little different than what you did?
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 12th of September 2017 08:32:23 PM
Being it is Hall effect, it should be reliable. I'm not a fan of the 2 piece shutter wheel, as they can be putzy to install under the rotor and I did have one come loose years ago. I prefer the Pertronix III conversion and matching high output coil. I'm not aware that anyone has noticed the 2 wires coming out of the distributor, rather than 1, and have never had anyone comment on them.
Getting a 45,000 volt coil and opening the plugs up makes a very noticeable improvement in starting and off idle running. Installing the SE and leaving the stock coil will get more dependability. Not certain it will improve starting, as it appears the 12v power would still come from the starter solenoid, rather than direct 12 volts from the fuse block.
I kind of want to stay with the original coil. And want to use the KK tack without any issues. Also don't want to mess with any resistance wire problem and where did you run the second wire on the pentroix III?
Is there a kit available with a one piece shutter wheel? I did see something in the instruction about adjustment of the two piece wheel.
-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 13th of September 2017 09:34:39 AM
The power for the Pertronix comes from a spade on the fuse box marked "ignition". It provides full 12 volts to the coil/electronic breaker in both "start" and "run" positions of the key. You need to run a separate wire for that. You don't use the resistance wire and you remove the "start" wire from the starter solenoid to prevent back feed. The 2 wires on the electronic control in the distributor only go to the coil + and -. The power feed wire also goes on the + side of the coil, so it is all very discrete and unnoticeable at the back of the engine.
I don't have a factory tach, but use a Sun Super with no issues. The sensing wire comes right off the + side of the coil, like original.
I have never seen a 1 piece shutter wheel, but I haven't looked either...
Forgot, the Pertronix coil I buy is black and I turn the label to the rear. It looks like an original coil when installed.
This pic shows the coil. You can see the 2 wires from the distr. The distributor is a new Pertronix with cast aluminum body to look original.
-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Wednesday 13th of September 2017 10:36:41 AM
Thanks again Mitch. I haven't changed points in about 10 yrs, (no issues with starting and dwell seems to stay at 28 degree) but was thinking it might be time to go to a breakerless system. i agree most people don't know the difference between the single wire and two wire system or the correct distributor, cap, or hold down clamp. My distributor is cast painted black, I thought they went to aluminum in 67. My tack runs off the neg on the coil.
It looks like the pentronix III has a rev limiter where the SE does not. I guess I have two much time to think about winter projects, unlike you.
Yup, you're right, the tach goes to neg. I'm old and confused...
No idea when the dizzy material changed.