I don't mean to be rude, but in that condition..$20. You'll spend much more to get it sand blasted and powercoated.
You can buy a NEW bar with the the correct end links for a little over $100 with free shipping and not mess around with old rusty stuff and finding end links and bushing kits for it.
The Summit bar has 21 positive reviews for fit and function.
jim larson said
Nov 18, 2015
In reading the reviews, it seems there is an issue with the bolt holes for the frame brackets. I have also read that there are some issues with the idler arm clearance and the tie rods sleeve bolts. I am wondering is a 1 1/8" bar might be a better option for me.
I wonder how Stan is coming with the bar he picked up at a swap meet?
-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 18th of November 2015 12:25:04 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 18, 2015
The 1 1/8" bar would be easier to mount to the frame but I doubt there will be enough difference to help any clearance issues with idler arm.
The only way I can think of the sleeve bolts having interference is if they are turned to the top of the threads. I always rotate the bolts to the bottom.
SShink said
Nov 19, 2015
jim larson wrote:
I wonder how Stan is coming with the bar he picked up at a swap meet?
-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 18th of November 2015 12:25:04 PM
Jim, I paid $35 for the one I picked up that is in about the same condition but with less surface rust. It's sitting on the garage floor waiting to be hit with the wire wheel and some paint. I still need to order 1.25" bushings and end links, so it will probably be next Spring until I put it in, unless we get a warm weekend.
jim larson said
Nov 19, 2015
So, anyone know of a good bar out there for $20-$35?
jim larson said
Nov 21, 2015
Lost in the 60s wrote:
I don't mean to be rude, but in that condition..$20. You'll spend much more to get it sand blasted and powercoated.
You can buy a NEW bar with the the correct end links for a little over $100 with free shipping and not mess around with old rusty stuff and finding end links and bushing kits for it.
The Summit bar has 21 positive reviews for fit and function.
I kind of have had bad experiences with OPGI products. The only new 1.25" products out there there seem to be UMI, ADDCO, and a Dorman product. I have been seeing about $180 range deliver to the house. Like this UMI product.or This ADDCO product. I was hoping to get by for under $100 with a use TA bar.
He is looking for the frame brackets. Could I just use mine with different bushings?
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 21, 2015
Most likely not. They probably won't accommodate the bushing diameter.
Derek69SS said
Nov 22, 2015
Use the polyurethane bushings with the brackets from Energy Suspension. (Summit sells them)
The polyurethane bushings are a lot thinner than rubber, so they will bolt up to the frame nicely in the original holes.
jim larson said
Nov 22, 2015
I see that they have slotted mounting holes for a variance of centers from 2 9/16" to 3 5/8" and are designed for 3/8" bolts. Do some people replace the coarse bolts with fine threaded bolts?
Also there seems to be two styles grease-able and non-grease-able, Of the grease-able there seems to be two styles, one with a grease zerk and one with a tube of grease. Like The summit one and the Energy Suspension one and this one from Amazon Unless the one from Amazon and Energy are the same.
I think I prefer the look on the non-zero bracket.
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 22, 2015
You probably don't need the zerk for re-greasing as I doubt you'll use the car enough to displace the grease applied during assembly.
Going to a 3/8 fine thread bolt provides more holding strength for the stiff bar.
What should I be willing to pay?
I don't mean to be rude, but in that condition..$20. You'll spend much more to get it sand blasted and powercoated.
You can buy a NEW bar with the the correct end links for a little over $100 with free shipping and not mess around with old rusty stuff and finding end links and bushing kits for it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/opg-addc709/overview/year/1966/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-720202/overview/year/1966/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle
The Summit bar has 21 positive reviews for fit and function.
In reading the reviews, it seems there is an issue with the bolt holes for the frame brackets. I have also read that there are some issues with the idler arm clearance and the tie rods sleeve bolts. I am wondering is a 1 1/8" bar might be a better option for me.
I wonder how Stan is coming with the bar he picked up at a swap meet?
-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 18th of November 2015 12:25:04 PM
The only way I can think of the sleeve bolts having interference is if they are turned to the top of the threads. I always rotate the bolts to the bottom.
Jim, I paid $35 for the one I picked up that is in about the same condition but with less surface rust. It's sitting on the garage floor waiting to be hit with the wire wheel and some paint. I still need to order 1.25" bushings and end links, so it will probably be next Spring until I put it in, unless we get a warm weekend.
So, anyone know of a good bar out there for $20-$35?
I kind of have had bad experiences with OPGI products. The only new 1.25" products out there there seem to be UMI, ADDCO, and a Dorman product. I have been seeing about $180 range deliver to the house. Like this UMI product. or This ADDCO product. I was hoping to get by for under $100 with a use TA bar.
Looks nice, not a rust bomb...
He is looking for the frame brackets. Could I just use mine with different bushings?
The polyurethane bushings are a lot thinner than rubber, so they will bolt up to the frame nicely in the original holes.
I see that they have slotted mounting holes for a variance of centers from 2 9/16" to 3 5/8" and are designed for 3/8" bolts. Do some people replace the coarse bolts with fine threaded bolts?
Also there seems to be two styles grease-able and non-grease-able, Of the grease-able there seems to be two styles, one with a grease zerk and one with a tube of grease. Like The summit one and the Energy Suspension one and this one from Amazon Unless the one from Amazon and Energy are the same.
I think I prefer the look on the non-zero bracket.
Going to a 3/8 fine thread bolt provides more holding strength for the stiff bar.