Long story short is I am pulling my just installed 383 to get some things checked, fixed and upgraded. I need to find a shop that can inspect the bottom end for me, figure out why I have low oil pressure (15psi at 195 degrees in gear at 800rpm), maybe install my new cam, go through my 5-year old heads to be sure they are still good and maybe put it all together for me ready to drop in and break in. Here is my current setup:
1976 4-bolt main 350
The rotating assembly from Summit description lists 350 length rods and dished pistons to keep compression under 11to1. Eagle kit, hypereutectic pistons with 12.00cc dish and forged 5140 rods. 383 Stroker kit externally balanced.
461 camel back heads, 64cc, 2.02/1.60 valves, intake runner 161cc? (for sale by the way)
Edelbrock Performer RPM cam: Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-6,500 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 244 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234 int./244 exh. Advertised Intake Duration: 308 Advertised Exhaust Duration: 318 Advertised Duration: 308 int./318 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.488 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.488 int./0.510 exh.
My best at the track is 13.066 ay 98mph with about a 179 or so 60 foot times.
4-door Chevelle said
Nov 26, 2015
OK, I am probably going to use TPiS in Chaska, www.tpis.com.
If I could come up with about another thousand dollars I would actually buy a crate motor but so far I don't even have enough to get this one rebuilt/upgraded.
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 30, 2015
Knowing you ran it with a broken oil pump, twice, I would assume the bearings got worn enough to bleed off pressure at low rpm.
Hopefully, they can polish the crank journals and not have to turn it down. I would recommend replacing the cam bearings as well, as they are susceptible to low oil pressure wear, especially with higher pressure valve springs.
Kinda sounds like you will end up freshening the whole thing. Hone the cylinders and new rings and replace all the bearings should bring it back to new.
Long story short is I am pulling my just installed 383 to get some things checked, fixed and upgraded. I need to find a shop that can inspect the bottom end for me, figure out why I have low oil pressure (15psi at 195 degrees in gear at 800rpm), maybe install my new cam, go through my 5-year old heads to be sure they are still good and maybe put it all together for me ready to drop in and break in. Here is my current setup:
1976 4-bolt main 350
The rotating assembly from Summit description lists 350 length rods and dished pistons to keep compression under 11to1. Eagle kit, hypereutectic pistons with 12.00cc dish and forged 5140 rods. 383 Stroker kit externally balanced.
461 camel back heads, 64cc, 2.02/1.60 valves, intake runner 161cc? (for sale by the way)
Edelbrock Performer RPM cam:
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 244
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234 int./244 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 308
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 318
Advertised Duration: 308 int./318 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.488 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.488 int./0.510 exh.
Here is the cam I had custom made for my setup:
Bullet Racing cams:
CHS 288/288-H12+5
duration @ .050 = 231/231
lift with 1.6 = .517/.517
lobe separation = 112
intake centerline = 107
My best at the track is 13.066 ay 98mph with about a 179 or so 60 foot times.
If I could come up with about another thousand dollars I would actually buy a crate motor but so far I don't even have enough to get this one rebuilt/upgraded.
Knowing you ran it with a broken oil pump, twice, I would assume the bearings got worn enough to bleed off pressure at low rpm.
Hopefully, they can polish the crank journals and not have to turn it down. I would recommend replacing the cam bearings as well, as they are susceptible to low oil pressure wear, especially with higher pressure valve springs.
Kinda sounds like you will end up freshening the whole thing. Hone the cylinders and new rings and replace all the bearings should bring it back to new.