The car rides so nice with the new radials, I am thinking about adding a rear sway bar. I have two offers for original gm control arms that are boxed sandblasted and powder coated ($110 plush ship and $150 to included ship). With new moog bushings installed it looks like I am at $200.
I would just swap out my un-boxed arms. Now I am looking at a rear sway bar. I have read that you should used front and rear bars that are designed to be used together. Well the rear sway bar didn't show up until 69 and it was a 7/8" bar. Thinking it is kind of difficult to find an original bar; but maybe? Are there other 68 and up A bodies that used the same bar? So I was thinking to use a repo bar for 69 and up shovels that is 7/8". Is that a good idea?
I am not going to be at the track; but I think Kevin C is kind of a fan of a rear sway bar. How much does it improve your driving Kevin?
Thanks
Derek69SS said
Apr 11, 2015
The same sway bar was used in '65 on the Z16s, and I believe the 4-4-2s, GTOs, and/or GS's had them available earlier than Chevelles.
On an F41 69+ Chevelle, the 7/8" rear bar was paired with a 1-1/8" front bar. Not sure about the others.
bowtie said
Apr 11, 2015
is it a different bar than the 70-72s? just curious
dashboard said
Apr 12, 2015
Jim I think you would like it, you won't be doing the square corners like Derek but its an improvement for even around town driving.
Derek has me wondering, I'll have to look under the GS to see if it has a rear bar and report back. I don't think it does, it corners like a large boat with out a rudder, the steering seems to be about ten turns lock to lock.
jim larson said
Apr 12, 2015
Thanks everyone. I thought about welding the inserts into my original arms and drilling holes ; but then I would have to paint them again. It might be helpful to have an extra set of arms around. Glenn Lever with blast and clean a set of arms, box them in, and then powder coat for $110. He will install supplied bushings. Bushing would run about $60 for the Moog. And you would be responsible for shipping both ways. I think these would be better than the boxed arms that the aftermarket venders sell for $170 to include shipping; but who knows. Anyone familiar with the bushings installed in the aftermarket arms or the quality of the arms? Looks like there are still a few gm sway bars out there for around $110 to the door. Then you need the shims, bolts, and nuts for attaching the bar for around $20.
jim larson said
Apr 13, 2015
Well, I got stiffed on Ebay. A seller for a pair of boxed control arms accepted my offer, so I paid him. Seems that someone offered him more money before the ship, so he canceled my purchase and sold to someone else. Its been a hassle getting him to refund my payment. He finally has made a refund to my PayPal purchase. But PayPal say they cannot complete the refund until 3 days from now.
dashboard said
Apr 13, 2015
I think we all have our eBay story's.
I did check, my GS does not have a rear sway bar. I found a set of un-boxed arms stashed away in a box that Jon H packed out for us in Oct 2013. I'll get them cleaned up and weld the inserts in.
jim larson said
Apr 14, 2015
I've found another set, cleaned, welded in the inserts, holes drilled , and powder coated. No bushings installed. $110 plus shipping.
Chris R said
Apr 14, 2015
How much is it to powdercoat a set of arms? I would think you should still come out OK by boxing the arms you already have and getting new bushings locally or from a source like Rock auto and powdercoating those instead.
If you really insist on having a set laying around. Non boxed control arms are much cheaper to obtain for an extra set.
jim larson wrote:
Well, I got stiffed on Ebay. A seller for a pair of boxed control arms accepted my offer, so I paid him. Seems that someone offered him more money before the ship, so he canceled my purchase and sold to someone else. Its been a hassle getting him to refund my payment. He finally has made a refund to my PayPal purchase. But PayPal say they cannot complete the refund until 3 days from now.
And regarding this ebayer. I would definitely leave him negative feedback. A lot of people do look at feedback before bidding. Some dont but I certainly do before I bid or buy anything on ebay unless its a national retailer.
dashboard said
Apr 14, 2015
I have several items that I've had powder coated, pulley's, engine brackets, inner fenders, and suspension parts. Their holding up well but I've also used POR15 in undercarriage applications and after a few years in service I think the POR15 looks better.
jim larson said
Apr 15, 2015
dashboard wrote:
I have several items that I've had powder coated, pulley's, engine brackets, inner fenders, and suspension parts. Their holding up well but I've also used POR15 in undercarriage applications and after a few years in service I think the POR15 looks better.
I am thinking I should just take the lowers off my car which have new moog bushing and weld in the inserts and then paint the arms with POR, thats a good alternative to powder coat. Any chance the heat from the welding will hurt the bushings?
jim larson said
Apr 17, 2015
Well I got an original sway bar from a guy in TX and shims,bolt, nuts, and arm inserts from classicmuscle. A friend will weld in the inserts into my current arms and I will paint as best I. I know it will ride better; but will have to see how much.
dashboard said
Jun 1, 2015
Have you installed you new rear sway bar?
jim larson said
Jun 2, 2015
dashboard wrote:
Have you installed you new rear sway bar?
Yes I have and I think it has made an improvement; but not having driven the car since last Oct to driving it with the sway bar, who knows; but the back feels more stable on turns and coming out of turns. No wheel hop when getting on it; but that didn't happen before.
I also put a set of new DB redlines on with different rims than I had been using. Well has that made a difference. I haven't felt the slightest vibration yet ; but have not gone over 90 mph. I also got the caster adjusted to 3.3 and 3.4 positive and that feels good, no shims on the front and 4 large ones on the back.. Camber is at 0.2 and 0.3 positive with two-in at 0.22 and 0.25 degrees.
As you may know I modified my PS gear box by putting in the internals from a JGC box. So car drives great.
Keith mounted the tires with his non-contact tire mounting machine, thanks again Keith. And I had the tires static balanced, so no wheel weights on the outside. Rims were painted last fall and I have my reconditioned dog caps on.
Now I have to solve my carb issue.
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 2nd of June 2015 02:34:33 PM
The car rides so nice with the new radials, I am thinking about adding a rear sway bar. I have two offers for original gm control arms that are boxed sandblasted and powder coated ($110 plush ship and $150 to included ship). With new moog bushings installed it looks like I am at $200.
I would just swap out my un-boxed arms. Now I am looking at a rear sway bar. I have read that you should used front and rear bars that are designed to be used together. Well the rear sway bar didn't show up until 69 and it was a 7/8" bar. Thinking it is kind of difficult to find an original bar; but maybe? Are there other 68 and up A bodies that used the same bar? So I was thinking to use a repo bar for 69 and up shovels that is 7/8". Is that a good idea?
I am not going to be at the track; but I think Kevin C is kind of a fan of a rear sway bar. How much does it improve your driving Kevin?
Thanks
On an F41 69+ Chevelle, the 7/8" rear bar was paired with a 1-1/8" front bar. Not sure about the others.
You could just rebuild your arms and weld these in www.opgi.com/chevelle/1966/chassis-suspension/suspension-components/RCAI001/ but 200.00 seems ok for a cleaned up set ready to install.
Derek has me wondering, I'll have to look under the GS to see if it has a rear bar and report back. I don't think it does, it corners like a large boat with out a rudder, the steering seems to be about ten turns lock to lock.
Thanks everyone. I thought about welding the inserts into my original arms and drilling holes ; but then I would have to paint them again. It might be helpful to have an extra set of arms around. Glenn Lever with blast and clean a set of arms, box them in, and then powder coat for $110. He will install supplied bushings. Bushing would run about $60 for the Moog. And you would be responsible for shipping both ways. I think these would be better than the boxed arms that the aftermarket venders sell for $170 to include shipping; but who knows. Anyone familiar with the bushings installed in the aftermarket arms or the quality of the arms? Looks like there are still a few gm sway bars out there for around $110 to the door. Then you need the shims, bolts, and nuts for attaching the bar for around $20.
Well, I got stiffed on Ebay. A seller for a pair of boxed control arms accepted my offer, so I paid him. Seems that someone offered him more money before the ship, so he canceled my purchase and sold to someone else. Its been a hassle getting him to refund my payment. He finally has made a refund to my PayPal purchase. But PayPal say they cannot complete the refund until 3 days from now.
I did check, my GS does not have a rear sway bar. I found a set of un-boxed arms stashed away in a box that Jon H packed out for us in Oct 2013. I'll get them cleaned up and weld the inserts in.
I've found another set, cleaned, welded in the inserts, holes drilled , and powder coated. No bushings installed. $110 plus shipping.
And regarding this ebayer. I would definitely leave him negative feedback. A lot of people do look at feedback before bidding. Some dont but I certainly do before I bid or buy anything on ebay unless its a national retailer.
I am thinking I should just take the lowers off my car which have new moog bushing and weld in the inserts and then paint the arms with POR, thats a good alternative to powder coat. Any chance the heat from the welding will hurt the bushings?
Well I got an original sway bar from a guy in TX and shims,bolt, nuts, and arm inserts from classicmuscle. A friend will weld in the inserts into my current arms and I will paint as best I. I know it will ride better; but will have to see how much.
Yes I have and I think it has made an improvement; but not having driven the car since last Oct to driving it with the sway bar, who knows; but the back feels more stable on turns and coming out of turns. No wheel hop when getting on it; but that didn't happen before.
I also put a set of new DB redlines on with different rims than I had been using. Well has that made a difference. I haven't felt the slightest vibration yet ; but have not gone over 90 mph. I also got the caster adjusted to 3.3 and 3.4 positive and that feels good, no shims on the front and 4 large ones on the back.. Camber is at 0.2 and 0.3 positive with two-in at 0.22 and 0.25 degrees.
As you may know I modified my PS gear box by putting in the internals from a JGC box. So car drives great.
Keith mounted the tires with his non-contact tire mounting machine, thanks again Keith. And I had the tires static balanced, so no wheel weights on the outside. Rims were painted last fall and I have my reconditioned dog caps on.
Now I have to solve my carb issue.
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 2nd of June 2015 02:34:33 PM