Hey all. Going to be putting my 8x12 wood shed on Craigslist. To help it sell I am trying to figure out how to link the possible buyer up with a way to transport it. Anybody know of a place that will rent a flat bed trailer? Or someone that moves these for a fee?
Sold!! A guy from New Hope who owns a trucking company moving trusses wants it. He has been looking for a while and people are pretty rude, never call or email back in response. He was pretty frustrated. So he is going to pick it up this weekend or next. That was lucky. Was sweating that. I will be starting a new post on my new detached garage I am getting built. Small in comparison to most guys on this forum. 22x22 with 12' ceilings. But it will have in floor radiant heat!!
Derek69SS said
Mar 16, 2015
Good luck on the new garage! If I could make one suggestion, it would be to go deeper. Even sacrifice width for depth if necessary. 22' doesn't leave much room to work around a car that is almost 17' long.
dashboard said
Mar 17, 2015
Take the car parts out of it, it will be a lot lighter.
X2 on the depth. Windows with east, south and west exposure.
more ambition than brains said
Mar 17, 2015
Does your city have a maximum on assessory square footage?
Many do, based on your Land use classification.
My 2 cents worth.
A double garage should be a minimum of 24x24. Third stall minimum 12 wide. 24x24=576 sq ft. 12x24=288 sq ft.
In Lakeville we have a maximum square footage of 1000 square feet in districts r-1 r-2 r-3 Some accommodation's for up to 1250 with special circumstances.
I favor a greater square foot allowance.
If tandem on the third stall try for 40 deep with the back portion 14 wide.
12x24 is the standard repair stall, add 2 feet if has wall on 1 side. Our wash rack is 16 feet wide.
Size does matter, always build to the max, you will not regret it.
Derek is on target.
Karl
Derek69SS said
Mar 17, 2015
My 18x28 is about perfect size garage for one project car with room to maneuver things like a cherry-picker and floor jack, with space left over for necessities like toolbox, workbench and refrigerator.
I'd also carefully plan your floor heat piping layout for consideration of adding a lift in the future... I've heard a few horror-stories of guys hitting their floor heat when drilling for anchors.
gearlube said
Mar 17, 2015
100% agree. It's about another $2K to add the extra 2' depth. But being in Stans garage which is 24' deep it makes sense. I think the 22' wide will be good. I am getting a 4 post lift as when and my plan is to stack store them. I called my contractor and made the amendment.
Karl: I worked with Farmington and I have a square foot to size on yard ratio. he pulled my survey and said I needed to be under the .35 of total. For that I could do a 26x26. I just can't afford that big. Plus that big would block my pond view from the house which equals unhappy wife. I have to be 10' off my rear fence, 6' from my side fence and 10' away from the house, and limited to 20' of the highest pitch point.
gearlube said
Mar 17, 2015
Good point Derek. I will ask my contractor to create a layout map and mark the gap areas
more ambition than brains said
Mar 17, 2015
This stuff is really fun,
Enjoy!
Karl
Chris R said
Mar 17, 2015
Is the back wall of the garage also shared with the wall of the house (ie, kitchen, mud room, laundry)?
In other words, does the back wall of the garage have "house" behind it? It kind of looks like it from the photo.
When I was working residential HVAC, I noticed a LOT of houses built the last 20 years have the garage staggered in "front" of the actual homes living space. So if a car guy wanted to extend the garage, the only option would be to go to the direction of the driveway otherwise your encroaching into the living space of the house, which IMO, defeats the purpose of having a nice newer house. Many houses with the 3 car garage typically have the 3rd stall with a back wall that isnt common with the living space inside so there is usually some workability there. Ive seen that done several times (very common with people whom own a boat ive noticed.)
gearlube said
Mar 17, 2015
Chris,
No this is totally detached and is being built in my large back yard. I do have a third car garage. I did talk to some contractors about extending and raising my ceiling height. To have an architect draw it up, an engineer to bless it, and all the work was a lot more money to do an detached shop. I like the idea of. Detached shop.
Update:
Going with the 24x22. As a surprise the contractor has his own construction yard. From a prior project he had 22' storage trusses f on a client who changed their mind after the fact. He wanted to find a job for these as they take up a lot of space. I just happen to need 22' trusses!! So we worked out a deal! I was hot going to go with storage trusses and have him build out the extra loft because it was quite expensive addition. But he charged me very little. So now I get a second storage loft!! Too cool.
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 17, 2015
Good deal on the storage trusses.
As an FYI, 4 post lifts don't need to be anchored and in fact most come with rollers to attach and move them around as needed. If you don't plan to move it and want the extra security of anchoring, then you have that option.
Are you putting a door in the back of the 3rd stall to access the new detached ?? I didn't see any way you could get around the house to the back yard, but maybe the bike path ...
SShink said
Mar 18, 2015
gearlube wrote:
Update: Going with the 24x22. As a surprise the contractor has his own construction yard. From a prior project he had 22' storage trusses f on a client who changed their mind after the fact. He wanted to find a job for these as they take up a lot of space. I just happen to need 22' trusses!! So we worked out a deal! I was hot going to go with storage trusses and have him build out the extra loft because it was quite expensive addition. But he charged me very little. So now I get a second storage loft!! Too cool.
24' Wide X 22' Deep, or the other way around?
I will recommend again that you will want it to be 24' deep to give you room to work on the front of the car, or push it forward and work on the rear with the garage door closed. 22' is not much room to work with for depth.
67ss said
Mar 18, 2015
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Are you putting a door in the back of the 3rd stall to access the new detached ?? I didn't see any way you could get around the house to the back yard, but maybe the bike path ...
The shed is sitting on pavement next to the third stall going to gates into the backyard looking at the picture. Once the shed is gone should be able to drive right into the back yard it looks like.
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 18, 2015
67ss wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Are you putting a door in the back of the 3rd stall to access the new detached ?? I didn't see any way you could get around the house to the back yard, but maybe the bike path ...
The shed is sitting on pavement next to the third stall going to gates into the backyard looking at the picture. Once the shed is gone should be able to drive right into the back yard it looks like.
Once again, you are right. I was at his place once and thought the shed was behind the house. I remembered there wasn't much room beside the building to the sidewalk, but it is the shed.
gearlube said
Mar 18, 2015
Correct the shed is leaving shortly. Then I will have a straight shot from my driveway past the third car garage. The original owners extended the driveway to create a parking pad there. I modified my gate so I now have an 8.5' opening. I can drive right down into my back area. I will be putting in some sort of a drive able pathway down.
Stan: will be 24' feet DEEP by 22' feet wide
Showed the plan to the wife and now with the storage area up top she wants it to have a window....nickel and dime, nickel and dime
In addition to my Hydronic radiant heat I am going to put in a Pioneer multi split heat pump for A/C. Can use that as heat too if needed.
I will be taking lots of pics as I go. I know people like to see project pics. Kind of fun. They are pulling permits on Monday! They said it will be within two weeks after that to break ground.
I want to personally thanks STAN for making me crazy jealous of his man cave all this time to push me over the edge.
In the below pics you will see where I sprayed an actual measured scale of where the shop will go for my contractors. The second pic shows my new extended gate modifications.
-- Edited by gearlube on Wednesday 18th of March 2015 09:50:25 AM
Congrats on the new shop! That will give you a lot of room to work.
I am curious, is your wife thanking Stan for this great new idea?
gearlube said
Mar 18, 2015
She can't say much cause she has a very expensive horse habit...
dashboard said
Apr 1, 2015
Have we turned up any ground yet?
gearlube said
Apr 1, 2015
Permits were put in for on Monday! One would think the Farmington Permit office is crazy busy, but I am not sure when we start. Soon I hope!
SShink said
Apr 28, 2015
Been almost a month now... any progress Tom?
gearlube said
Apr 28, 2015
The Spring Load restriction came off last Thursday. My contractor had two small jobs ahead of me. I am hearing Monday May 4th as a start!! Pics will be coming.
SShink said
Apr 28, 2015
gearlube wrote:
The Spring Load restriction came off last Thursday. My contractor had two small jobs ahead of me. I am hearing Monday May 4th as a start!! Pics will be coming.
Oh that's right... being in warm KS for a 6 weeks has made me forget about the frost line and load restrictions.
Hey all. Going to be putting my 8x12 wood shed on Craigslist. To help it sell I am trying to figure out how to link the possible buyer up with a way to transport it. Anybody know of a place that will rent a flat bed trailer? Or someone that moves these for a fee?
X2 on the depth. Windows with east, south and west exposure.
Many do, based on your Land use classification.
My 2 cents worth.
A double garage should be a minimum of 24x24. Third stall minimum 12 wide. 24x24=576 sq ft. 12x24=288 sq ft.
In Lakeville we have a maximum square footage of 1000 square feet in districts r-1 r-2 r-3 Some accommodation's for up to 1250 with special circumstances.
I favor a greater square foot allowance.
If tandem on the third stall try for 40 deep with the back portion 14 wide.
12x24 is the standard repair stall, add 2 feet if has wall on 1 side. Our wash rack is 16 feet wide.
Size does matter, always build to the max, you will not regret it.
Derek is on target.
Karl
I'd also carefully plan your floor heat piping layout for consideration of adding a lift in the future... I've heard a few horror-stories of guys hitting their floor heat when drilling for anchors.
Karl: I worked with Farmington and I have a square foot to size on yard ratio. he pulled my survey and said I needed to be under the .35 of total. For that I could do a 26x26. I just can't afford that big. Plus that big would block my pond view from the house which equals unhappy wife. I have to be 10' off my rear fence, 6' from my side fence and 10' away from the house, and limited to 20' of the highest pitch point.
Enjoy!
Karl
Is the back wall of the garage also shared with the wall of the house (ie, kitchen, mud room, laundry)?
In other words, does the back wall of the garage have "house" behind it? It kind of looks like it from the photo.
When I was working residential HVAC, I noticed a LOT of houses built the last 20 years have the garage staggered in "front" of the actual homes living space. So if a car guy wanted to extend the garage, the only option would be to go to the direction of the driveway otherwise your encroaching into the living space of the house, which IMO, defeats the purpose of having a nice newer house. Many houses with the 3 car garage typically have the 3rd stall with a back wall that isnt common with the living space inside so there is usually some workability there. Ive seen that done several times (very common with people whom own a boat ive noticed.)
No this is totally detached and is being built in my large back yard. I do have a third car garage. I did talk to some contractors about extending and raising my ceiling height. To have an architect draw it up, an engineer to bless it, and all the work was a lot more money to do an detached shop. I like the idea of. Detached shop.
Update:
Going with the 24x22. As a surprise the contractor has his own construction yard. From a prior project he had 22' storage trusses f on a client who changed their mind after the fact. He wanted to find a job for these as they take up a lot of space. I just happen to need 22' trusses!! So we worked out a deal! I was hot going to go with storage trusses and have him build out the extra loft because it was quite expensive addition. But he charged me very little. So now I get a second storage loft!! Too cool.
Good deal on the storage trusses.
As an FYI, 4 post lifts don't need to be anchored and in fact most come with rollers to attach and move them around as needed. If you don't plan to move it and want the extra security of anchoring, then you have that option.
Are you putting a door in the back of the 3rd stall to access the new detached ?? I didn't see any way you could get around the house to the back yard, but maybe the bike path ...
24' Wide X 22' Deep, or the other way around?
I will recommend again that you will want it to be 24' deep to give you room to work on the front of the car, or push it forward and work on the rear with the garage door closed. 22' is not much room to work with for depth.
The shed is sitting on pavement next to the third stall going to gates into the backyard looking at the picture. Once the shed is gone should be able to drive right into the back yard it looks like.
Once again, you are right. I was at his place once and thought the shed was behind the house. I remembered there wasn't much room beside the building to the sidewalk, but it is the shed.
Correct the shed is leaving shortly. Then I will have a straight shot from my driveway past the third car garage. The original owners extended the driveway to create a parking pad there. I modified my gate so I now have an 8.5' opening. I can drive right down into my back area. I will be putting in some sort of a drive able pathway down.
Stan: will be 24' feet DEEP by 22' feet wide
Showed the plan to the wife and now with the storage area up top she wants it to have a window....nickel and dime, nickel and dime
In addition to my Hydronic radiant heat I am going to put in a Pioneer multi split heat pump for A/C. Can use that as heat too if needed.
I will be taking lots of pics as I go. I know people like to see project pics. Kind of fun. They are pulling permits on Monday! They said it will be within two weeks after that to break ground.
I want to personally thanks STAN for making me crazy jealous of his man cave all this time to push me over the edge.
In the below pics you will see where I sprayed an actual measured scale of where the shop will go for my contractors. The second pic shows my new extended gate modifications.
-- Edited by gearlube on Wednesday 18th of March 2015 09:50:25 AM
Congrats on the new shop! That will give you a lot of room to work.
I am curious, is your wife thanking Stan for this great new idea?
Been almost a month now... any progress Tom?
Oh that's right... being in warm KS for a 6 weeks has made me forget about the frost line and load restrictions.
Seriously, looking forward to the updates.