I'm getting side tracked from the SS restoration for a while. The Malibu I bought didn't have a trunk floor or, obviously, a fuel tank. I have been running it on a 2 gallon gas can on the passenger floor with a long hose to the fuel pump. After I brought it home from Centerline, I decided to install the floor kit that came with it and put the fuel tank from the SS in with the 10 or so gallons of gas. That makes the car safer to move around and gets the heavy fuel tank off my floor and out from under foot...
This is a 7 piece kit and the edge of the right side replacement wasn't 90° where it contacts the wheel house. I bent it vertical but it pulled the radius behind with it, changing that.
Looking up from underneath, the radius at the frame mount is too tight, while it leaves large gaps on both sides.
I cut relief slots and bent the flange back to vertical. It follows the contour of the mount and wheel well much better.
Then I dealt with the overlap at the seam to the center section.
Blurry pic but using the cut off wheel and grinder, I got the edge to lay in the flange better.
Then I spent at least an hour fitting the trunk drop. Jeez those pieces are a PITA...:mad:
It's fits much better after "adjusting" the fit a few times.
-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Saturday 29th of November 2014 07:41:12 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 29, 2014
Today, I prepped the left side. The PO had left part of the trunk floor, frame mount and the drop on that side, so I cleaned off the wheel well and drilled out the spot welds.
I didn't know what the extra piece of metal was folded over the trunk floor. It turned out to be the trunk drop that was bent over, presumably, when the quarter patch was installed. It also has damage from a side and/or rear collision too.
This was very interesting. I've never had one of these cars with a drop/floor/wheel well mating area that wasn't rusted beyond recognition. During previous repairs, I've always assumed the drop fit under and inside of the floor. This floor is between the drop flange and wheel well. Could be part of my issues with getting the drops to fit good.
I bent the drop flange back down for access to the spot welds.
All cleaned off and ready for a test fit....:D
New frame brace in place with a new bushings and bolt.
This pan looks to be a decent fit. I didn't look underneath for gaps, so I'm sure I will still spend at least an hour tweaking it to match as close as possible.
I will need to cut out the back 8" of the drop and replace it die to crash damage and deformation. Hard to see the defection in the pic. I have a drop that I will cut a piece out of to section in.
Lost in the 60s said
Dec 13, 2014
John and I fit the left panel last Tuesday. As I suspected, it took more than an hour to get it right but it fits nicely now.
All secured with drill screws and ready to come out for prep.
The drop was in very good condition forward of the crash damage. Since I have problems getting the aftermarket drops to fit at the wheel well, I decide to leave the front half and section in 10" of the rear.
Then yesterday I fit the braces/tank mounts and marked them for welding.
John came over in the afternoon and went to work prepping the car for install. This new tool with the abrasive discs worked very well to remove the paint, dirt and thin undercoating from the surfaces.
I was busy prepping the right side. I sanded off the EDP and marked for weld holes.
Ready for weld thru primer. It now has 138 holes to weld in...
I swapped in the rubber eraser wheel on the Eliminator and scrubbed the labels off without harm to the paint. This tool is WAY cool...
Ready for install. Now I need to do the other side the same and the center section...
Lost in the 60s said
Dec 15, 2014
I prepped the center panel and set it and the right side back in to screw them down. For some unknown reason, they didn't sit the same as when I last had them in. They actually sat better on the rear crossmember, so I screwed them down. I then test fit the left side and that will now require major re-fitting... that's for another day...
I held the tank brace up and screwed that on from inside.
Then it was time to set up the screens and start making sparks.
It's tacked in pretty well and it was supper time, so the saga will continue tomorrow.
more ambition than brains said
Dec 16, 2014
You must be practicing for the demo on the ElCamino floor for the Bow Tie Brunch!
Karl
P.S.
Caulk and undercoat can hide a multitude of sins!
Lost in the 60s said
Dec 16, 2014
more ambition than brains wrote:
You must be practicing for the demo on the ElCamino floor for the Bow Tie Brunch! Karl
P.S. Caulk and undercoat can hide a multitude of sins!
Get it back there and set up. I'll demonstrate proper prep, holding in place and welding.
I do plan to use seam sealer and caulk to blend it...
Here's today's progress. I finished welding up most of the right and center panels before John go here. About 200 holes. John and I spent another 1 1/2 hours re-fitting the left section. Then he prepped it for install while I piddled with other stuff. It was all screwed down when he left at 3:30 and I climbed in the trunk and welded for another 1 1/2 hours. Filled 123 holes. It's about 85% welded in.
Then I can go over it with a disc to knock down the high spots. It shouldn't take much to get the welds down level. I work at keeping them as flush as possible to minimize grinding.
more ambition than brains said
Dec 16, 2014
beautiful work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Karl
I'm getting side tracked from the SS restoration for a while. The Malibu I bought didn't have a trunk floor or, obviously, a fuel tank. I have been running it on a 2 gallon gas can on the passenger floor with a long hose to the fuel pump. After I brought it home from Centerline, I decided to install the floor kit that came with it and put the fuel tank from the SS in with the 10 or so gallons of gas. That makes the car safer to move around and gets the heavy fuel tank off my floor and out from under foot...
This is a 7 piece kit and the edge of the right side replacement wasn't 90° where it contacts the wheel house. I bent it vertical but it pulled the radius behind with it, changing that.
Looking up from underneath, the radius at the frame mount is too tight, while it leaves large gaps on both sides.
I cut relief slots and bent the flange back to vertical. It follows the contour of the mount and wheel well much better.
Then I dealt with the overlap at the seam to the center section.
Blurry pic but using the cut off wheel and grinder, I got the edge to lay in the flange better.
Then I spent at least an hour fitting the trunk drop. Jeez those pieces are a PITA...:mad:
It's fits much better after "adjusting" the fit a few times.
-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Saturday 29th of November 2014 07:41:12 PM
Today, I prepped the left side. The PO had left part of the trunk floor, frame mount and the drop on that side, so I cleaned off the wheel well and drilled out the spot welds.
I didn't know what the extra piece of metal was folded over the trunk floor. It turned out to be the trunk drop that was bent over, presumably, when the quarter patch was installed. It also has damage from a side and/or rear collision too.
This was very interesting. I've never had one of these cars with a drop/floor/wheel well mating area that wasn't rusted beyond recognition. During previous repairs, I've always assumed the drop fit under and inside of the floor. This floor is between the drop flange and wheel well. Could be part of my issues with getting the drops to fit good.
I bent the drop flange back down for access to the spot welds.
All cleaned off and ready for a test fit....:D
New frame brace in place with a new bushings and bolt.
This pan looks to be a decent fit. I didn't look underneath for gaps, so I'm sure I will still spend at least an hour tweaking it to match as close as possible.
I will need to cut out the back 8" of the drop and replace it die to crash damage and deformation. Hard to see the defection in the pic. I have a drop that I will cut a piece out of to section in.
John and I fit the left panel last Tuesday. As I suspected, it took more than an hour to get it right but it fits nicely now.
All secured with drill screws and ready to come out for prep.
The drop was in very good condition forward of the crash damage. Since I have problems getting the aftermarket drops to fit at the wheel well, I decide to leave the front half and section in 10" of the rear.
Then yesterday I fit the braces/tank mounts and marked them for welding.
John came over in the afternoon and went to work prepping the car for install. This new tool with the abrasive discs worked very well to remove the paint, dirt and thin undercoating from the surfaces.
I was busy prepping the right side. I sanded off the EDP and marked for weld holes.
Ready for weld thru primer. It now has 138 holes to weld in...
I swapped in the rubber eraser wheel on the Eliminator and scrubbed the labels off without harm to the paint. This tool is WAY cool...
Ready for install. Now I need to do the other side the same and the center section...
I prepped the center panel and set it and the right side back in to screw them down. For some unknown reason, they didn't sit the same as when I last had them in. They actually sat better on the rear crossmember, so I screwed them down. I then test fit the left side and that will now require major re-fitting...
that's for another day...
I held the tank brace up and screwed that on from inside.
Then it was time to set up the screens and start making sparks.
It's tacked in pretty well and it was supper time, so the saga will continue tomorrow.
Karl
P.S.
Caulk and undercoat can hide a multitude of sins!
Get it back there and set up. I'll demonstrate proper prep, holding in place and welding.
I do plan to use seam sealer and caulk to blend it...
Here's today's progress. I finished welding up most of the right and center panels before John go here. About 200 holes. John and I spent another 1 1/2 hours re-fitting the left section. Then he prepped it for install while I piddled with other stuff. It was all screwed down when he left at 3:30 and I climbed in the trunk and welded for another 1 1/2 hours. Filled 123 holes. It's about 85% welded in.
Then I can go over it with a disc to knock down the high spots. It shouldn't take much to get the welds down level. I work at keeping them as flush as possible to minimize grinding.
Karl
Very Nice!