-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Monday 29th of September 2014 09:41:57 AM
Derek69SS said
Sep 29, 2014
Nice color combo!
Body looks very solid. What are your plans for it?
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 29, 2014
Derek69SS wrote:
Nice color combo!
Body looks very solid. What are your plans for it?
Return to original color combo. Retain mild small block. Undecided on trans. I prefer manual but may use the included TH350 for now, if it is good.
Has a '63 vintage 327 engine of unknown condition. John, with the yellow '72, is buying a 383-396 and I may end up with the 350 out of his car.
Unfortunately, the '70 SS is going to get a new owner because of this, both for space and funds. I've had it 9 years now and haven't accomplished much, so it's time for someone else to take up the cause.
Derek69SS said
Sep 29, 2014
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Unfortunately, the '70 SS is going to get a new owner because of this, both for space and funds. I've had it 9 years now and haven't accomplished much, so it's time for someone else to take up the cause.
PM me with details...
-- Edited by Derek69SS on Monday 29th of September 2014 11:24:22 AM
67ss said
Sep 29, 2014
Your killing me Mitch. I want to work on mine so badly but have so many other things I need to be doing.
Tony Hoffer said
Sep 29, 2014
What happened to the corvair project?
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 29, 2014
Tony Hoffer wrote:
What happened to the corvair project?
That's in line too....
Grajmahal said
Sep 30, 2014
Nice looking pile o' parts. Is that a spare bright blue dash pad that I spy, and if so, is it for sale?
John
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 30, 2014
Grajmahal wrote:
Nice looking pile o' parts. Is that a spare bright blue dash pad that I spy, and if so, is it for sale?
John
I think it's the same one as in the second pic of the cracked pad and grille etc . Those are the same parts as piled on the cowl.
IF there happens to be a better one than the cracked one, um no, it won't be for sale....
Yeah, I'm not sure why I keep buying piles of parts to re-assemble, but I couldn't pass it up for the condition and price. The real fun starts when I find time to go get it.....in Columbia Falls, MT....
Enganeer said
Sep 30, 2014
Just make sure to do it before the snow starts to fall in the mountains.
SShink said
Sep 30, 2014
Enganeer wrote:
Just make sure to do it before the snow starts to fall in the mountains.
Naaaah... Mitch loves driving that '52 truck in the mountains when it's snowing, just like when driving to Colorado to trailer it home. Right Mitch!?!?
You need a new avatar pic to capture all the acquisitions since you took the last one.
Seriously, that looks like a solid project with good bones other than did I see a trunk pan repair panel in the background with all the sheet metal parts?
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 30, 2014
SShink wrote:
Enganeer wrote:
Just make sure to do it before the snow starts to fall in the mountains.
Naaaah... Mitch loves driving that '52 truck in the mountains when it's snowing, just like when driving to Colorado to trailer it home. Right Mitch!?!?
You need a new avatar pic to capture all the acquisitions since you took the last one.
Seriously, that looks like a solid project with good bones other than did I see a trunk pan repair panel in the background with all the sheet metal parts?
You're right, snow doesn't stop me. It did slow me down in Wolf Creek pass when all 4 wheels were spinning up the switchback...
The trunk floor was rough and the owner cut it out and has the 7 piece replacement kit included.
The package tray was brutally butchered for speakers too. I don't think I can repair it. I'll be looking for a donor cut off. Other than those 2 obvious issues, the rest looks pretty solid BUT you never know until it gets here and the paint comes off.
Chris R said
Sep 30, 2014
Mitch, what was the interest in another 66 project instead of keeping the 70 as a future project? I would think with a 66SS already parked in the shop, it would be kind of cool to have a 70 LS5 car waiting in the wings.
Derek69SS said
Oct 1, 2014
Chris R wrote:
Mitch, what was the interest in another 66 project instead of keeping the 70 as a future project? I would think with a 66SS already parked in the shop, it would be kind of cool to have a 70 LS5 car waiting in the wings.
Automotive ADHD
This car is a higher priority because he didn't already own it.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 1, 2014
I've had the '70 for 9 years now and it needs more work than I care to get involved with anymore. After the 6 year on again-off again, love/hate rebuild of the GTO, I am not enthusiastic about getting as deep with what the '70 needs, and deserves.
I have been toying with the idea of a Malibu for a while. It will STAY a Malibu and have a small block. As a youth, I rode in a spankin' new '66 Marina Blue Chevelle while my Dad test drove it. I LOVED that car and yes, it had the Bright Blue interior. He ended up buying an Aztec Bronze on Black '66.
The Malibu is a factory Blue on Blue, bucket seat, console car.
By selling both the GTO and '70, I should have close to enough funding to get both '66's "done". They, obviously, won't be show stoppers but nice drivers in my 2 favorite colors....
Um, Derek, I see we really do think alike...
The newest acquisition gets the highest priority...
Scott Parkhurst said
Oct 1, 2014
I think you just want my GN because it doesn't need any work done on it.
It'd be a whole new experience for you...LOL!!
Tony Hoffer said
Oct 1, 2014
As I stare at the Chevelle that last ran in 2011 and the piles of Vega/ Astre parts and the garage full of Brut sleds and parts.. Its good to know that others are scoffing at the 12 step program of triage as well. LOL
Chris R said
Oct 1, 2014
Im pretty sure thats the addiction of being a car guy.
bowtie said
Oct 7, 2014
This year, I'm all about starting early! So far I've already procrastinated 3+ weeks on my suspension upgrade and it looks like I might actually rip it all apart this weekend.
jim larson said
Oct 10, 2014
Mitch, congratulation on your new 66 project. You can't have two many 66's IMHO.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 21, 2014
Well, it's here. I left Columbia Falls, MT at 11:00 am central time on Friday and was home at 11:30 am Saturday. I parked the truck, jumped in the wife's TSX and was at Finishing Touch a little after noon. Got a few dings pushed out, enjoyed a great lunch and was mostly present for the meeting.
In the yard.
It has a floor....
Most of the car is in the trunk.
Fortunately, the guy didn't throw much away and it's all there. Even has deluxe seat belts.
Aside from the left quarter panel being annihilated in a crash and slathered over with 1/2" of bondo, there's very little metal work needed.
The engine is a '64 Chevelle 250 hp 327. The intake, carb and distributor are in the trunk. No idea of engine condition. He removed the master cylinder, so it has no brakes. I will be installing a rebuilt master today and bleeding the brakes so it will stop while being "maneuvered" around until it runs.
67ss said
Oct 21, 2014
Is it a factory 283 or 327 car. Cannot make out the fender badge imprint enough to tell?
SShink said
Oct 21, 2014
I'm diggin' the ZZ Top Pro Street 80's two-tone stripes! I think you should bring it back as an 80's tribute car.
It is a solid looking car though, and those floors do look good.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 21, 2014
Chris, it has 327 emblems but who knows if they are original to the car ??
Here is a pic of the engine he sent before I bought the car. 327 250hp from a '64 Chevelle.
I got curious as to what was under the tall valve covers today...
OOOOKKKKKAAAAAYYYYY, now I'm really curious. The starter and harness were still there, so I put in a battery and jumped the harness. It turned over immediately. Then I hooked up the oil pressure gauge and set the intake and distributor on and cranked it for a few minutes. 40 lbs of pressure while cranking.Now I can't just put it away for the winter, I need to assemble and start it to see what I got...
I also installed a new rebuilt master cylinder and bled the brakes so I can control it while rolling it around. The more I look at this car, the better it gets...
Enganeer said
Oct 22, 2014
If you pull off the timing cover and chain, there might be a cam number of the face of the camshaft. Or you could measure the amount of lift at the lifter x 1.5 for rockers and duration and try and figure it. Either way, sounds like a fun engine.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 22, 2014
I sent an email to the guy I got it from last night because I forgot what he had said about the engine. It was intact when he got the car but he never ran it, just started taking it apart and then left it.
I'm going to pull the plugs, shoot some oil in the cylinders, crank it over a while to lube them and then take a static compression reading. If the compression reads OK, I will put it together and fire it. Having it running will make moving the car around a LOT easier than pushing..
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 26, 2014
The engine runs but the Holley gaskets are so dried out, it leaks everywhere. I have a rebuild kit coming for that.
It has headers and I didn't get any exhaust with it, so I dug out this kit i bought 11 years ago for the K1500 I sold last spring. More 80's style here for you, Stan...
While I was rolling around under there, I was looking at the floor for rust and I can't find ANY !!! Light surface rust is all. I found a part number stamped in the rocker.
This is a floor brace and inner/outer rockers and frame....pristine...
This really blew me away, the paint stripes are still visible on the driveshaft !! Anyone know what 3 red/orange stripes represents ?
SShink said
Oct 26, 2014
Lost in the 60s wrote:
It has headers and I didn't get any exhaust with it, so I dug out this kit i bought 11 years ago for the K1500 I sold last spring. More 80's style here for you, Stan...
I will admit it... I had cherry bombs behind the headers and side exits in front of the rear tires in 1981 on my '71 307 powered Malibu!
That is one solid car!
Dashboard probably knows how to decode the driveshaft stripes, as he did it on his Elky and repainted them.
jim larson said
Oct 27, 2014
It's ironic that the olds assembly manuals state what colors and number of strips indicate as far as engine, trans, etc; but the chevelle AIM don't indicate anything. I have researched this and there seems to be a lot inconsistency in the color and location of the strips depending upon engine or plant in 66.
One driveshaft I have has one orange strip located 34" from the front and the other one has three strips, 2 orange and one blue/green located much closer to to front like yours; but not with the spacing as your. If yours is a 327 car and original driveshaft it is suppose to have the same drive shaft as the SS car's. All other 66 chevelles have a different part number and a different price in the 65 parts catalog. There were two different driveshafts used in a 66 chevelle. All used the same length and same U joints. Not sure about the front slip yoke. Depending upon what cars engine/trans combinations the dirveshaft manufacture was making for chevy at the time there would be different colors and numbers of strips used.
Looks like your rocker was stamped on the 41st week of 65, is that consistent with the build date. All 2 dr hardtops will be stamped 13617 even if they are 138 cars since the rocker was the same as opposed to the stamping on the rear quarters of 136 and 138, although there are some documented 138 cars that received 136 rear quarters.
jim larson said
Oct 27, 2014
Looks like the 3 hooks for the parking brake lines might be in the wrong place, I think the big hook goes into the top of the trans cross member. And the bolts for the trans crossmember to the frame have been out at one time.
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 27th of October 2014 08:25:43 AM
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 27, 2014
jim larson wrote:
Looks like the 3 hooks for the parking brake lines might be in the wrong place, I think the big hook goes into the top of the trans cross member. And the bolts for the trans crossmember to the frame have been out at one time.
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 27th of October 2014 08:25:43 AM
It has a TH350 of unknown origin in it.
jim larson said
Oct 27, 2014
Lost in the 60s wrote:
It has a TH350 of unknown origin in it.
Thinking the TH350 was not available until 69 in the chevelle. maybe that would change the the driveshaft length and slip yoke, along with U joints and Tube yokes from the 66-67 driveshafts for the manual and power glide transmission? If that is a 66 or 67 trans cross member would the EB set up be the same as in 66?
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 27, 2014
jim larson wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
It has a TH350 of unknown origin in it.
Thinking the TH350 was not available until 69 in the chevelle. maybe that would change the the driveshaft length and slip yoke, along with U joints and Tube yokes from the 66-67 driveshafts for the manual and power glide transmission? If that is a 66 or 67 trans cross member would the EB set up be the same as in 66?
The TH350 is not original, powerglide was the only automatic in '66. It does interchange with the pg completely except for the floor shifter arm. The 350 never had a solid arm shifter, they were all cable and the speedo cable comes out right into the arm for the shifter. I need to find a 90° adapter to get the cable out of the way. I believe the crossmember and driveshaft are original.
-- Edited by John D on Monday 27th of October 2014 04:58:30 PM
67ss said
Oct 27, 2014
Lost in the 60s wrote:
The TH350 is not original, powerglide was the only automatic in '66. It does interchange with the pg completely except for the floor shifter arm. The 350 never had a solid arm shifter, they were all cable and the speedo cable comes out right into the arm for the shifter. I need to find a 90° adapter to get the cable out of the way. I believe the crossmember and driveshaft are original.
Why bother you know you want to buy all my 4 speed stuff and convert it anyway
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 27, 2014
67ss wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
The TH350 is not original, powerglide was the only automatic in '66. It does interchange with the pg completely except for the floor shifter arm. The 350 never had a solid arm shifter, they were all cable and the speedo cable comes out right into the arm for the shifter. I need to find a 90° adapter to get the cable out of the way. I believe the crossmember and driveshaft are original.
Why bother you know you want to buy all my 4 speed stuff and convert it anyway
WHAT 4 SPEED STUFF....
67ss said
Oct 27, 2014
I sent you the PM about the trans but you did not like it because it was a 65 year with the smaller idler shaft. Trans needs a rebuild. But I also have a 403 bellhousing and matching flywheel I could throw into the deal. Again it would be for a 10.5 clutch but I don't think you are going to build a monster engine for it?
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 28, 2014
Well, the tall covers and roller rockers are just bolt on "wanna be's" like the headers, intake and carb. I have it running and drove it out of the shop yesterday. I believe the internals are stock 250 hp parts as it idles very smooth. The good thing is, there was no smoke on start up or idling, so it may be a decent engine.
I put a question on the Team Chevelle forum about it being an original 327 car. It has a 3/8ths fuel line and the answer I got back was, the 283 cars had the same 5/16ths line as the 6 cylinders. If that is true, it really is a 327 car...
For the life of me, I don't understand why the guy I bought it from never drove it... He said it didn't run when he got it and all he did was tear the whole car apart and let it sit for 6 years. All I did was reassemble the engine and start it... The transmission even went right into gear....I'm bewildered as to what he was thinking...
Anyway, here it is after moving 80 feet under it's own power for the first time in many years. I think it is happy...
67ss said
Oct 28, 2014
I will have to use your front fenders to make a template for drilling the holes to add the 327 emblems to my car when the time comes.
I can check the fuel line size on my car to see if it is 5/16 or 3/8 since I know mine to be a true 283 car.
jim larson said
Oct 28, 2014
67ss wrote:
I will have to use your front fenders to make a template for drilling the holes to add the 327 emblems to my car when the time comes.
RPO UPC L20 of the AIM shows the location of the 327 emblems.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 28, 2014
67ss wrote:
I will have to use your front fenders to make a template for drilling the holes to add the 327 emblems to my car when the time comes.
I can check the fuel line size on my car to see if it is 5/16 or 3/8 since I know mine to be a true 283 car.
You ready to part the other one out ?? I need the lower control arms to build up and have ready to swap in. You can have the tale-outs to put back...
I need correct P S brackets too. What came with it are wrong and cobbled. I'm wondering if the P S was added from another car ?
67ss said
Oct 28, 2014
jim larson wrote:
67ss wrote:
I will have to use your front fenders to make a template for drilling the holes to add the 327 emblems to my car when the time comes.
RPO UPC L20 of the AIM shows the location of the 327 emblems.
Jim I assume you are talking about an assembly manual o
67ss said
Oct 28, 2014
Lost in the 60s wrote:
67ss wrote:
I will have to use your front fenders to make a template for drilling the holes to add the 327 emblems to my car when the time comes.
I can check the fuel line size on my car to see if it is 5/16 or 3/8 since I know mine to be a true 283 car.
You ready to part the other one out ?? I need the lower control arms to build up and have ready to swap in. You can have the tale-outs to put back...
I need correct P S brackets too. What came with it are wrong and cobbled. I'm wondering if the P S was added from another car ?
I have a set of arms off a 69 chevelle sitting out you can grab. I think thay are all the same? Let me know.
I don't have any p/s brackets to spare I have the one set I scrounged to put on my own car. I have a set for short water pump camaro but I am pretty sure they hit the cross member on a chevelle.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 28, 2014
67ss wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
67ss wrote:
I will have to use your front fenders to make a template for drilling the holes to add the 327 emblems to my car when the time comes.
I can check the fuel line size on my car to see if it is 5/16 or 3/8 since I know mine to be a true 283 car.
You ready to part the other one out ?? I need the lower control arms to build up and have ready to swap in. You can have the tale-outs to put back...
I need correct P S brackets too. What came with it are wrong and cobbled. I'm wondering if the P S was added from another car ?
I have a set of arms off a 69 chevelle sitting out you can grab. I think thay are all the same? Let me know.
I don't have any p/s brackets to spare I have the one set I scrounged to put on my own car. I have a set for short water pump camaro but I am pretty sure they hit the cross member on a chevelle.
Do those arms have the oval bushing in the rear lower location ? Hard to find urethane replacements for them.
I looked at the brackets on my Camaro and they are different but I didn't see where they would hit the frame. I'll look again tomorrow. After looking at pics of the correct brackets, the lower cradle is correct. There is a home made upper to work with the headers and alternator location but no way to adjust for belt tension
Bryan said
Oct 28, 2014
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Well, the tall covers and roller rockers are just bolt on "wanna be's" like the headers, intake and carb. I have it running and drove it out of the shop yesterday. I believe the internals are stock 250 hp parts as it idles very smooth. The good thing is, there was no smoke on start up or idling, so it may be a decent engine.
I put a question on the Team Chevelle forum about it being an original 327 car. It has a 3/8ths fuel line and the answer I got back was, the 283 cars had the same 5/16ths line as the 6 cylinders. If that is true, it really is a 327 car...
For the life of me, I don't understand why the guy I bought it from never drove it... He said it didn't run when he got it and all he did was tear the whole car apart and let it sit for 6 years. All I did was reassemble the engine and start it... The transmission even went right into gear....I'm bewildered as to what he was thinking...
Anyway, here it is after moving 80 feet under it's own power for the first time in many years. I think it is happy...
Awesome!!
67ss said
Oct 29, 2014
Mitch the arms I have do not have the oval bushings they are round. I have a set of uppers also if you want them to be able to do it all. Let me know.
jim larson said
Oct 29, 2014
According the the 66 AIM the only chevelles that received the 3/8" fuel line were all models with a 327. Plus the V8 models 13817 and 13867 (the SS models) and the El Camino's with the 396.
Looks like there are three (3) different types of lower control arms used on chevelles from 64-72. Lever site
I have an extra set of lower control arms that I took off my 66; but one has the ball joint welded in as there was a crack on the arm that has also been welded. I also have that 4 door sport sedan that I am going to disassemble. I plan to sell some of those parts. I think I will try to sell the whole rolling frame complete.
Derek69SS said
Oct 29, 2014
That website has one minor incorrect detail. The third type of lower A-arm with the oval bushing began in 1970 and is not correct for 66-69 cars. Ovals were used on 70-72 non-SS models.
Also, I can't remember exactly, but I think he has the early/late bushing diameters mixed up as well. I think the small bushings were early, and large bushings were later... been a while since I messed with this stuff.
66 was the transition year for the bushing diameters so either may be correct depending on build date and which plant... not sure if anyone has ever looked into it any further than that to document when the switch occurred at each plant.
Hmmmm.... another project?
Your ADHD is kicking in again.
138 car?
136
731
F F
Los Angeles built
-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Monday 29th of September 2014 09:41:57 AM
Body looks very solid. What are your plans for it?
Return to original color combo. Retain mild small block. Undecided on trans. I prefer manual but may use the included TH350 for now, if it is good.
Has a '63 vintage 327 engine of unknown condition. John, with the yellow '72, is buying a 383-396 and I may end up with the 350 out of his car.
Unfortunately, the '70 SS is going to get a new owner because of this, both for space and funds. I've had it 9 years now and haven't accomplished much, so it's time for someone else to take up the cause.
PM me with details...
-- Edited by Derek69SS on Monday 29th of September 2014 11:24:22 AM
Your killing me Mitch. I want to work on mine so badly but have so many other things I need to be doing.
That's in line too....
John
I think it's the same one as in the second pic of the cracked pad and grille etc . Those are the same parts as piled on the cowl.
IF there happens to be a better one than the cracked one, um no, it won't be for sale....
Yeah, I'm not sure why I keep buying piles of parts to re-assemble, but I couldn't pass it up for the condition and price. The real fun starts when I find time to go get it.....in Columbia Falls, MT....
Naaaah... Mitch loves driving that '52 truck in the mountains when it's snowing, just like when driving to Colorado to trailer it home. Right Mitch!?!?
You need a new avatar pic to capture all the acquisitions since you took the last one.
Seriously, that looks like a solid project with good bones other than did I see a trunk pan repair panel in the background with all the sheet metal parts?
You're right, snow doesn't stop me. It did slow me down in Wolf Creek pass when all 4 wheels were spinning up the switchback...
The trunk floor was rough and the owner cut it out and has the 7 piece replacement kit included.
The package tray was brutally butchered for speakers too. I don't think I can repair it. I'll be looking for a donor cut off. Other than those 2 obvious issues, the rest looks pretty solid BUT you never know until it gets here and the paint comes off.
Mitch, what was the interest in another 66 project instead of keeping the 70 as a future project? I would think with a 66SS already parked in the shop, it would be kind of cool to have a 70 LS5 car waiting in the wings.
Automotive ADHD
This car is a higher priority because he didn't already own it.
I've had the '70 for 9 years now and it needs more work than I care to get involved with anymore. After the 6 year on again-off again, love/hate rebuild of the GTO, I am not enthusiastic about getting as deep with what the '70 needs, and deserves.
I have been toying with the idea of a Malibu for a while. It will STAY a Malibu and have a small block. As a youth, I rode in a spankin' new '66 Marina Blue Chevelle while my Dad test drove it. I LOVED that car and yes, it had the Bright Blue interior. He ended up buying an Aztec Bronze on Black '66.
The Malibu is a factory Blue on Blue, bucket seat, console car.
By selling both the GTO and '70, I should have close to enough funding to get both '66's "done". They, obviously, won't be show stoppers but nice drivers in my 2 favorite colors....
Um, Derek, I see we really do think alike...
The newest acquisition gets the highest priority...
It'd be a whole new experience for you...LOL!!
Im pretty sure thats the addiction of being a car guy.
Mitch, congratulation on your new 66 project. You can't have two many 66's IMHO.
Well, it's here. I left Columbia Falls, MT at 11:00 am central time on Friday and was home at 11:30 am Saturday. I parked the truck, jumped in the wife's TSX and was at Finishing Touch a little after noon. Got a few dings pushed out, enjoyed a great lunch and was mostly present for the meeting.
In the yard.
It has a floor....
Most of the car is in the trunk.
Fortunately, the guy didn't throw much away and it's all there. Even has deluxe seat belts.
Aside from the left quarter panel being annihilated in a crash and slathered over with 1/2" of bondo, there's very little metal work needed.
The engine is a '64 Chevelle 250 hp 327. The intake, carb and distributor are in the trunk. No idea of engine condition. He removed the master cylinder, so it has no brakes. I will be installing a rebuilt master today and bleeding the brakes so it will stop while being "maneuvered" around until it runs.
Is it a factory 283 or 327 car. Cannot make out the fender badge imprint enough to tell?
I'm diggin' the ZZ Top Pro Street 80's two-tone stripes! I think you should bring it back as an 80's tribute car.
It is a solid looking car though, and those floors do look good.
Chris, it has 327 emblems but who knows if they are original to the car ??
Here is a pic of the engine he sent before I bought the car. 327 250hp from a '64 Chevelle.
I got curious as to what was under the tall valve covers today...
OOOOKKKKKAAAAAYYYYY, now I'm really curious. The starter and harness were still there, so I put in a battery and jumped the harness. It turned over immediately. Then I hooked up the oil pressure gauge and set the intake and distributor on and cranked it for a few minutes. 40 lbs of pressure while cranking.Now I can't just put it away for the winter, I need to assemble and start it to see what I got...
I also installed a new rebuilt master cylinder and bled the brakes so I can control it while rolling it around. The more I look at this car, the better it gets...
I sent an email to the guy I got it from last night because I forgot what he had said about the engine. It was intact when he got the car but he never ran it, just started taking it apart and then left it.
I'm going to pull the plugs, shoot some oil in the cylinders, crank it over a while to lube them and then take a static compression reading. If the compression reads OK, I will put it together and fire it. Having it running will make moving the car around a LOT easier than pushing..
The engine runs but the Holley gaskets are so dried out, it leaks everywhere. I have a rebuild kit coming for that.
It has headers and I didn't get any exhaust with it, so I dug out this kit i bought 11 years ago for the K1500 I sold last spring. More 80's style here for you, Stan...
While I was rolling around under there, I was looking at the floor for rust and I can't find ANY !!! Light surface rust is all. I found a part number stamped in the rocker.
This is a floor brace and inner/outer rockers and frame....pristine...
This really blew me away, the paint stripes are still visible on the driveshaft !! Anyone know what 3 red/orange stripes represents ?
I will admit it... I had cherry bombs behind the headers and side exits in front of the rear tires in 1981 on my '71 307 powered Malibu!
That is one solid car!
Dashboard probably knows how to decode the driveshaft stripes, as he did it on his Elky and repainted them.
It's ironic that the olds assembly manuals state what colors and number of strips indicate as far as engine, trans, etc; but the chevelle AIM don't indicate anything. I have researched this and there seems to be a lot inconsistency in the color and location of the strips depending upon engine or plant in 66.
One driveshaft I have has one orange strip located 34" from the front and the other one has three strips, 2 orange and one blue/green located much closer to to front like yours; but not with the spacing as your. If yours is a 327 car and original driveshaft it is suppose to have the same drive shaft as the SS car's. All other 66 chevelles have a different part number and a different price in the 65 parts catalog. There were two different driveshafts used in a 66 chevelle. All used the same length and same U joints. Not sure about the front slip yoke. Depending upon what cars engine/trans combinations the dirveshaft manufacture was making for chevy at the time there would be different colors and numbers of strips used.
Looks like your rocker was stamped on the 41st week of 65, is that consistent with the build date. All 2 dr hardtops will be stamped 13617 even if they are 138 cars since the rocker was the same as opposed to the stamping on the rear quarters of 136 and 138, although there are some documented 138 cars that received 136 rear quarters.
Looks like the 3 hooks for the parking brake lines might be in the wrong place, I think the big hook goes into the top of the trans cross member. And the bolts for the trans crossmember to the frame have been out at one time.
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 27th of October 2014 08:25:43 AM
It has a TH350 of unknown origin in it.
Thinking the TH350 was not available until 69 in the chevelle. maybe that would change the the driveshaft length and slip yoke, along with U joints and Tube yokes from the 66-67 driveshafts for the manual and power glide transmission? If that is a 66 or 67 trans cross member would the EB set up be the same as in 66?
The TH350 is not original, powerglide was the only automatic in '66. It does interchange with the pg completely except for the floor shifter arm. The 350 never had a solid arm shifter, they were all cable and the speedo cable comes out right into the arm for the shifter. I need to find a 90° adapter to get the cable out of the way. I believe the crossmember and driveshaft are original.
Might try these guys... http://ddinstruments.com/other-products/
Or these guys... http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm#gm (click on ratio adapter & scroll down a bit)
-- Edited by John D on Monday 27th of October 2014 04:58:30 PM
Why bother you know you want to buy all my 4 speed stuff and convert it anyway
WHAT 4 SPEED STUFF....
I sent you the PM about the trans but you did not like it because it was a 65 year with the smaller idler shaft. Trans needs a rebuild. But I also have a 403 bellhousing and matching flywheel I could throw into the deal. Again it would be for a 10.5 clutch but I don't think you are going to build a monster engine for it?
Well, the tall covers and roller rockers are just bolt on "wanna be's" like the headers, intake and carb. I have it running and drove it out of the shop yesterday. I believe the internals are stock 250 hp parts as it idles very smooth. The good thing is, there was no smoke on start up or idling, so it may be a decent engine.
I put a question on the Team Chevelle forum about it being an original 327 car. It has a 3/8ths fuel line and the answer I got back was, the 283 cars had the same 5/16ths line as the 6 cylinders. If that is true, it really is a 327 car...
For the life of me, I don't understand why the guy I bought it from never drove it...
He said it didn't run when he got it and all he did was tear the whole car apart and let it sit for 6 years. All I did was reassemble the engine and start it...
The transmission even went right into gear....I'm bewildered as to what he was thinking...
Anyway, here it is after moving 80 feet under it's own power for the first time in many years. I think it is happy...
I will have to use your front fenders to make a template for drilling the holes to add the 327 emblems to my car when the time comes.
I can check the fuel line size on my car to see if it is 5/16 or 3/8 since I know mine to be a true 283 car.
RPO UPC L20 of the AIM shows the location of the 327 emblems.
You ready to part the other one out ?? I need the lower control arms to build up and have ready to swap in. You can have the tale-outs to put back...
I need correct P S brackets too. What came with it are wrong and cobbled. I'm wondering if the P S was added from another car ?
Jim I assume you are talking about an assembly manual o
I have a set of arms off a 69 chevelle sitting out you can grab. I think thay are all the same? Let me know.
I don't have any p/s brackets to spare I have the one set I scrounged to put on my own car. I have a set for short water pump camaro but I am pretty sure they hit the cross member on a chevelle.
Do those arms have the oval bushing in the rear lower location ? Hard to find urethane replacements for them.
I looked at the brackets on my Camaro and they are different but I didn't see where they would hit the frame. I'll look again tomorrow. After looking at pics of the correct brackets, the lower cradle is correct. There is a home made upper to work with the headers and alternator location but no way to adjust for belt tension
Awesome!!
Mitch the arms I have do not have the oval bushings they are round. I have a set of uppers also if you want them to be able to do it all. Let me know.
According the the 66 AIM the only chevelles that received the 3/8" fuel line were all models with a 327. Plus the V8 models 13817 and 13867 (the SS models) and the El Camino's with the 396.
Looks like there are three (3) different types of lower control arms used on chevelles from 64-72. Lever site
I have an extra set of lower control arms that I took off my 66; but one has the ball joint welded in as there was a crack on the arm that has also been welded. I also have that 4 door sport sedan that I am going to disassemble. I plan to sell some of those parts. I think I will try to sell the whole rolling frame complete.
Also, I can't remember exactly, but I think he has the early/late bushing diameters mixed up as well. I think the small bushings were early, and large bushings were later... been a while since I messed with this stuff.
66 was the transition year for the bushing diameters so either may be correct depending on build date and which plant... not sure if anyone has ever looked into it any further than that to document when the switch occurred at each plant.