Anyone converted alternator from external to internal regulator?
SShink said
Sep 21, 2014
So when I went to leave the St. Peter show this afternoon, the 'Gen' idiot light stayed on all the way home. I checked the voltage at the battery with the car running, and it was 11.9V. Turned on the headlights, and it was 11.7V, so assuming the alternator took a dump since the voltage didn't go up as it should.
I just started researching converting to a CS series newer GM alternator with internal regulator and 80-90 Amp output, but wondered if anyone else has done this conversion?
67ss said
Sep 21, 2014
It's not a hard swap. It will require running the wire for the idiot light to the alternator directly instead of the external regulator. Need a new connector for the alternator which you can get at most any parts store. I have a basic diagram at work I can email you.
stldrgn said
Sep 21, 2014
If you buy the kit it only takes a few minutes. Its plug for the regulator and one for the alternator end it can easy be switched back. I have done both the kit is really easy.
-- Edited by stldrgn on Sunday 21st of September 2014 08:00:11 PM
-- Edited by stldrgn on Sunday 21st of September 2014 08:01:00 PM
SShink said
Sep 21, 2014
Thanks guys.
I found when researching this, it looks like the external regulator mounted on the core support could be bad, and a lot of guys have replaced it with a solid state version that has higher output. I'm thinking of buying this one and trying it for under $30: Wells VR715 Voltage Regulator
I suppose I could take out the alternator and have O'Reilly's test it just to make sure it's ok or not too.
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 22, 2014
SShink wrote:
Thanks guys.
I found when researching this, it looks like the external regulator mounted on the core support could be bad, and a lot of guys have replaced it with a solid state version that has higher output. I'm thinking of buying this one and trying it for under $30: Wells VR715 Voltage Regulator
I suppose I could take out the alternator and have O'Reilly's test it just to make sure it's ok or not too.
I would have the alt tested BEFORE buying a reg. You may be throwing money at a problem that doesn't exist.
IF the alt is bad, I would still make the swap to 1 wire. As steeldragon said, there are conversion harnesses to make this a 2 minute job without altering your original harness at all.
SShink said
Sep 22, 2014
67ss wrote:
It's not a hard swap. It will require running the wire for the idiot light to the alternator directly instead of the external regulator. Need a new connector for the alternator which you can get at most any parts store. I have a basic diagram at work I can email you.
And do you have a GM alternator pn that you recommend? Or, a particular vehicle to use for the parts counter guy that can't look anything up without it?
Thanks.
67ss said
Sep 22, 2014
Yep that diagram is correct and should work. As for an alternator this should do the trick. 80 amps so will handle your future A/C install. It will require you to swap your v belt pulley but no big deal.
Orielly's part number is 01-0220 is from and 87 chevy truck with a 5.7 engine.
I found when researching this, it looks like the external regulator mounted on the core support could be bad, and a lot of guys have replaced it with a solid state version that has higher output. I'm thinking of buying this one and trying it for under $30: Wells VR715 Voltage
No sure what wells regulator I bought. But a electrical/car guy I know said I should change to a solid state regulator, unless I wanted to be stranded some place, so I bought one ( around $10) and put the old Delco cover on it, so you can tell visually that it is not the old deco regulator. Old one is in the tool box.
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 22nd of September 2014 02:24:03 PM
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 22nd of September 2014 02:29:23 PM
SShink said
Sep 22, 2014
67ss wrote:
Yep that diagram is correct and should work. As for an alternator this should do the trick. 80 amps so will handle your future A/C install. It will require you to swap your v belt pulley but no big deal.
Orielly's part number is 01-0220 is from and 87 chevy truck with a 5.7 engine.
Would there be any issue also swapping the cooling fan from the old one to the new one to keep the 'vintage' OEM look? Not sure if that would impact the cooling on the new alternator, but I suppose it's a potential since the fan design's are so different. Also not sure if the shaft is different between the two for the mounting.
I did find this one that has a similar fan blade style that is a 63 Amp internal regulated from a '78 Camaro with AC for $45: Alternate alternator
I'm going to pull the old alternator and have it tested just to make sure that is the issue, and will likely go with one you posted for $80 including the new connector to go to an internal regulated alternator, plus it can be replaced easily on the road if there is an issue.
Thanks Jim for the info on the regulator. I didn't fully understand until now that the original ones are electro mechanical like disty points, and never had a problem with one, so didn't know there were solid state ones available. Good insurance if running an external regulator.
67ss said
Sep 22, 2014
I think the front of the alternator is a little different between the two fan styles. The shafts are all the same I have never seen one be a different diameter. The one that you looked up would also do the trick but just a bit less amperage output.
SShink said
Sep 22, 2014
67ss wrote:
I think the front of the alternator is a little different between the two fan styles. The shafts are all the same I have never seen one be a different diameter. The one that you looked up would also do the trick but just a bit less amperage output.
I did find this one with the higher output that already has the Vbelt pulley from an '84 Camaro that I think will work without having to swap the pulley: Alt. with V groove pulley
So, I just need to decide if I want to stay original looking with the lower output one (similar to what is in it now but internally regulated), or the higher output with the non-stock looking fan...
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 22, 2014
That alternator won't work near it's capacity until you add more load, as in an A/C compressor and electric fan. Swapping the original fan onto it for now will be fine.
67ss said
Sep 22, 2014
I think the center bolt valve covers, high rise intake, and soon to be vintage a/c is throwing the originality look out the window. Lol
SShink said
Sep 22, 2014
67ss wrote:
I think the center bolt valve covers, high rise intake, and soon to be vintage a/c is throwing the originality look out the window. Lol
Ya think?
So the verdict is in... the alternator is bad. O'Reilly's spun it up and we could hear a bad bearing right away, and it also failed the output test. I thought yesterday when I pulled into the fairgrounds I heard a whine, so guess it gave up the ghost on the drive in. This was one of the mystery motor parts, so no idea how old it is.
I ordered the 63 Amp replacement alternator ($45 before a $5 frequent buyer coupon I had) and will have it tomorrow, as after all this discussion on the conversion, and how it only took me 5 min. to pull the old one, and it will be 5 min. to put the new one in, I decided to make the internal regulator version a winter project.
Thanks everyone for all the feedback.
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 22, 2014
Hopefully the new one will be clocked the same for the wiring harness. Not difficult to change, if you know how.
So when I went to leave the St. Peter show this afternoon, the 'Gen' idiot light stayed on all the way home. I checked the voltage at the battery with the car running, and it was 11.9V. Turned on the headlights, and it was 11.7V, so assuming the alternator took a dump since the voltage didn't go up as it should.
I just started researching converting to a CS series newer GM alternator with internal regulator and 80-90 Amp output, but wondered if anyone else has done this conversion?
It's not a hard swap. It will require running the wire for the idiot light to the alternator directly instead of the external regulator. Need a new connector for the alternator which you can get at most any parts store. I have a basic diagram at work I can email you.
If you buy the kit it only takes a few minutes. Its plug for the regulator and one for the alternator end it can easy be switched back. I have done both the kit is really easy.
-- Edited by stldrgn on Sunday 21st of September 2014 08:00:11 PM
-- Edited by stldrgn on Sunday 21st of September 2014 08:01:00 PM
Thanks guys.
I found when researching this, it looks like the external regulator mounted on the core support could be bad, and a lot of guys have replaced it with a solid state version that has higher output. I'm thinking of buying this one and trying it for under $30: Wells VR715 Voltage Regulator
I suppose I could take out the alternator and have O'Reilly's test it just to make sure it's ok or not too.
I would have the alt tested BEFORE buying a reg. You may be throwing money at a problem that doesn't exist.
IF the alt is bad, I would still make the swap to 1 wire. As steeldragon said, there are conversion harnesses to make this a 2 minute job without altering your original harness at all.
Chris, is this the diagram (found on TC)?
This is the link to the TC post: TC Post Link
And do you have a GM alternator pn that you recommend? Or, a particular vehicle to use for the parts counter guy that can't look anything up without it?
Thanks.
Yep that diagram is correct and should work. As for an alternator this should do the trick. 80 amps so will handle your future A/C install. It will require you to swap your v belt pulley but no big deal.
Orielly's part number is 01-0220 is from and 87 chevy truck with a 5.7 engine.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ULT0/010220/01468.oap?year=1987&make=Chevrolet&model=V10%2BPickup%2B4WD&vi=5013082&ck=Search_01468_5013082_3295&pt=01468&ppt=C0330
No sure what wells regulator I bought. But a electrical/car guy I know said I should change to a solid state regulator, unless I wanted to be stranded some place, so I bought one ( around $10) and put the old Delco cover on it, so you can tell visually that it is not the old deco regulator. Old one is in the tool box.
http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/054190-wells-manufacturing-voltage-regulator.html?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&gclid=CjwKEAjwkf-gBRCd-b2m2aOo0EQSJABMeQDkjmqB4aQmoxLrjI7oeKL3M3IfFP3SFPljSqBtKnIrXhoC0D_w_wcB#.VCB3CEuJlOo
Looks like fleet farm has a better price.
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 22nd of September 2014 02:24:03 PM
-- Edited by jim larson on Monday 22nd of September 2014 02:29:23 PM
Thanks Chris!
Would there be any issue also swapping the cooling fan from the old one to the new one to keep the 'vintage' OEM look? Not sure if that would impact the cooling on the new alternator, but I suppose it's a potential since the fan design's are so different. Also not sure if the shaft is different between the two for the mounting.
I did find this one that has a similar fan blade style that is a 63 Amp internal regulated from a '78 Camaro with AC for $45: Alternate alternator
I'm going to pull the old alternator and have it tested just to make sure that is the issue, and will likely go with one you posted for $80 including the new connector to go to an internal regulated alternator, plus it can be replaced easily on the road if there is an issue.
Thanks Jim for the info on the regulator. I didn't fully understand until now that the original ones are electro mechanical like disty points, and never had a problem with one, so didn't know there were solid state ones available. Good insurance if running an external regulator.
I think the front of the alternator is a little different between the two fan styles. The shafts are all the same I have never seen one be a different diameter. The one that you looked up would also do the trick but just a bit less amperage output.
I did find this one with the higher output that already has the Vbelt pulley from an '84 Camaro that I think will work without having to swap the pulley: Alt. with V groove pulley
So, I just need to decide if I want to stay original looking with the lower output one (similar to what is in it now but internally regulated), or the higher output with the non-stock looking fan...
I think the center bolt valve covers, high rise intake, and soon to be vintage a/c is throwing the originality look out the window. Lol
Ya think?
So the verdict is in... the alternator is bad. O'Reilly's spun it up and we could hear a bad bearing right away, and it also failed the output test. I thought yesterday when I pulled into the fairgrounds I heard a whine, so guess it gave up the ghost on the drive in. This was one of the mystery motor parts, so no idea how old it is.
I ordered the 63 Amp replacement alternator ($45 before a $5 frequent buyer coupon I had) and will have it tomorrow, as after all this discussion on the conversion, and how it only took me 5 min. to pull the old one, and it will be 5 min. to put the new one in, I decided to make the internal regulator version a winter project.
Thanks everyone for all the feedback.