I’m in the market for a blasting cabinet and compressor. I’ve done blasting with both of your systems could you give me your compressor specs?I’d like to know the CFM rating at 80psi. Thanks
John D said
Aug 10, 2014
Here's a shot of the data plate. Compressor unit is all iron (not sleeved aluminum)with roller bearings on the crank, iron rods with real bearing inserts & bushings (floating pins). Also runs at much lower rpm than others of similar specs (= quiet).
If you remember using mine, the compressor runs almost constantly but the cut in is 150#, shut off is 175. I run a pressure regulated extension hose at 60-80# to the cabinet. It would most likely do much better with a lower switch setting.
Mine is 15 cfm at 80# IR T30 5hp 2 cylinder 2 stage.
Dave Seitz said
Aug 12, 2014
Tony has a nice setup of compressor and cabinet. You get what you pay for with any system and will need to look at repair parts for both compressor and blast units as well.
dashboard said
Aug 13, 2014
Mitch is yours a 60 or 80 gal tank?
My take away here and from other homework I've done is 17 or greater CFM at 80 PSI an 80 gal tank will work well for most cabinets and a well built motor.
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 13, 2014
Mine is a 60. An 80 would provide more capacity before start up but you still need the compressor capability to refill faster than the draw down. Mine will shut off occasionally but 17-18 cfm would be better.
John D said
Aug 13, 2014
I weighed the 60 vs. 80 gal. tank vs. higher cfm vs. this vs. that vs. voltage vs. HP vs. RPM and on & on & on...
What it came down to was my realistic use of the unit. I wanted to run air tools (for mechanical work), an occasional air-nailer, a D/A sander, possibly a spray gun, fill tires, and then occasionally a sand-blast cabinet. It's not in a production shop environment, and I'm only gonna buy this thing once.
The 60 gallon tank for my purposes is plenty big enough (volume) and it's small enough (size) to tuck in the corner and forget about. The 6HP/230V motor doesn't have to break a sweat, and current draw (economy) is 1/2 that of a 120V of a smaller HP rating (I don't think you can even GET a 6HP in 120V). The compressor head was the hard part. There were less expensive units with the same specs, but did not have iron cylinders, iron bushed/bearing'd rods, roller bearing cranks, and a large capacity oil sump (1qt.+). A low running RPM was also a big factor. Less RPM = less noise, wear. Other units could match spec on capacity, but at 1/3 more RPM.
If I'm running the blaster, it gets a workout... but generally by the time my hand cramps up from the trigger, it's time for a break and let the compressor catch up (to 125 tank pressure) and shut off. If you keep at it and keep going & going & going, the compressor will run pretty much constantly (maintaining 100+ PSI) until you stop blasting. Running air tools the thing kicks on about twice an hour.
Some of the best "features" I did during the install were: - using the cork/rubber isolation blocks under the feet. I can have a glass of water 5' down the bench and there's hardly a ripple when running. - routing the tank drain out to a easily accessible valve. It's a constant reminder to crack it open time to time and drain the condensate. - piping the intake(s) up into the attic, and installing the filters up there. It cut the noise in the shop 60+%.
I know you'll do the research on this, but what it really comes down to is the quality of the compressor head.
John and or Mitch or anyone else for that mater.
I’m in the market for a blasting cabinet and compressor. I’ve done blasting with both of your systems could you give me your compressor specs? I’d like to know the CFM rating at 80psi. Thanks
Here's a shot of the data plate. Compressor unit is all iron (not sleeved aluminum)with roller bearings on the crank, iron rods with real bearing inserts & bushings (floating pins). Also runs at much lower rpm than others of similar specs (= quiet).
If you remember using mine, the compressor runs almost constantly but the cut in is 150#, shut off is 175. I run a pressure regulated extension hose at 60-80# to the cabinet. It would most likely do much better with a lower switch setting.
I bought from C-aire...
Mine is 15 cfm at 80# IR T30 5hp 2 cylinder 2 stage.
My take away here and from other homework I've done is 17 or greater CFM at 80 PSI an 80 gal tank will work well for most cabinets and a well built motor.
I weighed the 60 vs. 80 gal. tank vs. higher cfm vs. this vs. that vs. voltage vs. HP vs. RPM and on & on & on...
What it came down to was my realistic use of the unit. I wanted to run air tools (for mechanical work), an occasional air-nailer, a D/A sander, possibly a spray gun, fill tires, and then occasionally a sand-blast cabinet. It's not in a production shop environment, and I'm only gonna buy this thing once.
The 60 gallon tank for my purposes is plenty big enough (volume) and it's small enough (size) to tuck in the corner and forget about. The 6HP/230V motor doesn't have to break a sweat, and current draw (economy) is 1/2 that of a 120V of a smaller HP rating (I don't think you can even GET a 6HP in 120V). The compressor head was the hard part. There were less expensive units with the same specs, but did not have iron cylinders, iron bushed/bearing'd rods, roller bearing cranks, and a large capacity oil sump (1qt.+). A low running RPM was also a big factor. Less RPM = less noise, wear. Other units could match spec on capacity, but at 1/3 more RPM.
If I'm running the blaster, it gets a workout... but generally by the time my hand cramps up from the trigger, it's time for a break and let the compressor catch up (to 125 tank pressure) and shut off. If you keep at it and keep going & going & going, the compressor will run pretty much constantly (maintaining 100+ PSI) until you stop blasting. Running air tools the thing kicks on about twice an hour.
Some of the best "features" I did during the install were:
- using the cork/rubber isolation blocks under the feet. I can have a glass of water 5' down the bench and there's hardly a ripple when running.
- routing the tank drain out to a easily accessible valve. It's a constant reminder to crack it open time to time and drain the condensate.
- piping the intake(s) up into the attic, and installing the filters up there. It cut the noise in the shop 60+%.
I know you'll do the research on this, but what it really comes down to is the quality of the compressor head.