Initial test drive with the Camaro - seems like it running to hot?
69SSConv said
Apr 21, 2014
Looking for some feedback. My son and I took the Camaro out for it maiden voyage yesterday. Need to work on the shift points of the 2004R for sure, wouldn't shift into 3rd until 4000 RPM? Never got it to go into overdrive? Upon reviewing I had too much tension on the TV cable at normal throttle ranges. At WOT it would shift at about 6000 RPM and chirp the tires for 1-2 and 2-3.
The other thing I noticed is it seemed to run on the hot side. It was consistently about 210, or slightly higher?
It is a 1980 vintage 350 block with Vortec heads and Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake. I am not running a coolant bypass, but from what I read it should not need one? Radiator is an aluminum with single electric fan, 2500 CFM, thermostat is 180 degree. Fan relay is set to kick on about 185 degrees?
I chased that with my camaro when I first built it. I did have to run a bypass from the fitting on the intake under the thermostat to one of the heater hoses to get the stat to open correctly. I was wondering it Stan might run into the same problem with his motor, maybe he will chime in if he is having the same problem or not.
SShink said
Apr 21, 2014
Loren, that 2nd gen looks great! I would lower it about 2" all the way around, but that's just how I like 'em, and it would handle better.
Sounds like it is running hotter than it should. I would suggest checking the timing first and see where that's running, as that can have a big impact on the cooling temp. My 350 engine setup is about the same as yours, and it's running at 160 degrees max temp with a 180 degree stat, stock 1 core aluminum rad with plastic tanks, and AC clutch fan that I got from John E.'s 70 Elky drive setup. I'm actually concerned that it's running too cool, but it does seem happy.
Did you use the Bowtie Overdrives TV Made Easy kit with the eccentric adjustment on the carb? If so, sounds like you need to rotate it counter clockwise to lower the shift points and soften the shifts?
Enganeer said
Apr 21, 2014
Is the fan relay clicking it on at 185? If so, maybe the fan is not working properly. Single speed or two speed fan?
Maybe some trapped air somewhere? I drill an 1/8" hole in every thermostat so I can fill up and prevent any air pockets.
-- Edited by Enganeer on Monday 21st of April 2014 12:04:54 PM
SShink said
Apr 21, 2014
Enganeer wrote:
I drill an 1/8" hole in every thermostat so I can fill up and prevent any air pockets.
X2
69SSConv said
Apr 21, 2014
Thanks for all the feedback. I do plan on throwing the timing light back on it, as it seems a little sluggish at lower RPM's. I have verified when idling, once it hits about 185 the fan does engage, I believe it is a single stage I picked up from Auto City Classics. I is a aluminum plate attached to the radiator, so it is mounted close to the cooling fins. I was thinking of drilling a hole in the thermostat, to make sure I don't have trapped air as well.
Chris, do you have a picture of how you hooked up you bypass?
69SSConv said
Apr 21, 2014
Stan,
Yes i have the Bowtie overdrive TV cable setup, I didn't make to many adjustments yesterday, as it was running warmer than I was comfortable with.
I agree on the 2" drop, I was looking it over yesterday and think it would look better with a 2" drop all the way around. (Maybe next winter project though?)
67ss said
Apr 21, 2014
This is a picture from Bryans chevelle as it is easier to see on his than mine. But you can see a little 3/8 hose coming out the front of the intake and than T's in the heater hose just behind the alternator.
-- Edited by 67ss on Monday 21st of April 2014 03:47:31 PM
Yes i have the Bowtie overdrive TV cable setup, I didn't make to many adjustments yesterday, as it was running warmer than I was comfortable with.
Loren, I started out with the adjustment in the furthest right side of the slot (yes I read the instructions...), then moved it about 1/8th of an inch clockwise for the shift pattern that I liked.. The first thing John at Master Trans did when looking at mine was he put some tension on the cable with his finger, then clocked the throttle at WOT, and the self adjuster had one more click in it. From there it's been working fine.
69SSConv said
Apr 21, 2014
Stan, thanks for the starting point I took a look at it tonight and I had the cable under too much tension. I will put the bypass in this week and try making some adjustments this weekend.
jim larson said
Apr 22, 2014
Double what Stan said about timing, 210 at spring temps in MN sounds high. I had the same issue with my chevelle when I bought it. Problem was solved when I had the engine out one winter and found out what camshaft was in the car. I was running the timing way to low. Now it is set at +17 instead of +8. Engine runs at 180 during spring temp and at 180 during August temps instead of about 220-240 before the change in timing. I also had to have the distributor re-worked so I didn't have to much total timing.
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 22nd of April 2014 08:24:18 AM
dashboard said
Apr 22, 2014
67ss wrote:
I chased that with my camaro when I first built it. I did have to run a bypass from the fitting on the intake under the thermostat to one of the heater hoses to get the stat to open correctly.
That bypass hose plays a large roll in proper thermostat operation and removing air pockets. It is designed to circulate water within the block during warm up to prevent hot spots prior to the thermostat opening.
69SSConv said
May 1, 2014
Update:
Put in the bypass as suggested. Temps are back where I would expect them to be. Did some adjustments for the shift points, seeing improvements, but still cannot get to shift into Overdrive? I plan on calling the transmission builder tomorrow and see what he says. 1-2 - 2000 rpm. 2-3 - 3200 rpm. Muche smoother shifts anyway.
Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions.
Looking for some feedback. My son and I took the Camaro out for it maiden voyage yesterday. Need to work on the shift points of the 2004R for sure, wouldn't shift into 3rd until 4000 RPM? Never got it to go into overdrive? Upon reviewing I had too much tension on the TV cable at normal throttle ranges. At WOT it would shift at about 6000 RPM and chirp the tires for 1-2 and 2-3.
The other thing I noticed is it seemed to run on the hot side. It was consistently about 210, or slightly higher?
It is a 1980 vintage 350 block with Vortec heads and Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake. I am not running a coolant bypass, but from what I read it should not need one? Radiator is an aluminum with single electric fan, 2500 CFM, thermostat is 180 degree. Fan relay is set to kick on about 185 degrees?
Thoughts?
I chased that with my camaro when I first built it. I did have to run a bypass from the fitting on the intake under the thermostat to one of the heater hoses to get the stat to open correctly. I was wondering it Stan might run into the same problem with his motor, maybe he will chime in if he is having the same problem or not.
Loren, that 2nd gen looks great!
I would lower it about 2" all the way around, but that's just how I like 'em, and it would handle better.
Sounds like it is running hotter than it should. I would suggest checking the timing first and see where that's running, as that can have a big impact on the cooling temp. My 350 engine setup is about the same as yours, and it's running at 160 degrees max temp with a 180 degree stat, stock 1 core aluminum rad with plastic tanks, and AC clutch fan that I got from John E.'s 70 Elky drive setup. I'm actually concerned that it's running too cool, but it does seem happy.
Did you use the Bowtie Overdrives TV Made Easy kit with the eccentric adjustment on the carb? If so, sounds like you need to rotate it counter clockwise to lower the shift points and soften the shifts?
Is the fan relay clicking it on at 185? If so, maybe the fan is not working properly. Single speed or two speed fan?
Maybe some trapped air somewhere? I drill an 1/8" hole in every thermostat so I can fill up and prevent any air pockets.
-- Edited by Enganeer on Monday 21st of April 2014 12:04:54 PM
X2
Thanks for all the feedback. I do plan on throwing the timing light back on it, as it seems a little sluggish at lower RPM's. I have verified when idling, once it hits about 185 the fan does engage, I believe it is a single stage I picked up from Auto City Classics. I is a aluminum plate attached to the radiator, so it is mounted close to the cooling fins. I was thinking of drilling a hole in the thermostat, to make sure I don't have trapped air as well.
Chris, do you have a picture of how you hooked up you bypass?
Stan,
Yes i have the Bowtie overdrive TV cable setup, I didn't make to many adjustments yesterday, as it was running warmer than I was comfortable with.
I agree on the 2" drop, I was looking it over yesterday and think it would look better with a 2" drop all the way around. (Maybe next winter project though?)
-- Edited by 67ss on Monday 21st of April 2014 03:47:31 PM
Loren, I started out with the adjustment in the furthest right side of the slot (yes I read the instructions...), then moved it about 1/8th of an inch clockwise for the shift pattern that I liked.. The first thing John at Master Trans did when looking at mine was he put some tension on the cable with his finger, then clocked the throttle at WOT, and the self adjuster had one more click in it. From there it's been working fine.
Stan, thanks for the starting point I took a look at it tonight and I had the cable under too much tension. I will put the bypass in this week and try making some adjustments this weekend.
Double what Stan said about timing, 210 at spring temps in MN sounds high. I had the same issue with my chevelle when I bought it. Problem was solved when I had the engine out one winter and found out what camshaft was in the car. I was running the timing way to low. Now it is set at +17 instead of +8. Engine runs at 180 during spring temp and at 180 during August temps instead of about 220-240 before the change in timing. I also had to have the distributor re-worked so I didn't have to much total timing.
-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 22nd of April 2014 08:24:18 AM
That bypass hose plays a large roll in proper thermostat operation and removing air pockets. It is designed to circulate water within the block during warm up to prevent hot spots prior to the thermostat opening.