Looking for some feedback. I am looking at purchasing a open car hauler trailer. Considering a 18' steel tilt, or 20' steel beaver tail. I know there are pro's and con's to both. I plan on staying with 3500# axles, I have used a trailer with 5500# axles (beaver tail) and it sits pretty high, with short ramps, makes it tough with a low profile car, (got my daughters car hung up on the beavertail, with the muffler).
Tilt Bed - No ramps to handle, but seems that you would need a second person to lower the bed once I would drive on?
Beaver Tail - Ramps, but one person could load and unload.
I know there are other things to consider, looking for some advice so I buy the right trailer the first time. I know there are a number of us who have trailers, that have said, my next trailers would be....... or have......
Appreciate the feedback.
67ss said
Apr 9, 2014
I have an 18' tilt bed from dressen custom trailer. Mine tilts all on its own with weight it does not use a jack like some. I like that fact but it is not very good for trying to drag a dead car up on to it. But I really like not having to deal with ramps. I don't know if they still make the style I have their web site does not seem to show it anymore, the one they show now has a jack to tilt the bed. http://www.dct-usa.com/
If you think you are going to be hauling some dead ones with a tilt bed I would get one that uses the jack to hold the bed. I have buddies with tilt trailers from johnson trailers in colfax WI. Have used them and few times and seem like nice trailers. http://www.johnsontrailerco.com/
As you found out with beaver tails things can scrap and hit under the car pretty easily.
SShink said
Apr 9, 2014
I don't know much about trailers... but Loren I'm wondering if there is an optional hard wired remote control feature that can be added to extend a control so that you can use it while in the car on the trailer to lower the bed once the car is on it?
69SSConv said
Apr 9, 2014
Thanks for the feedback, so far I have only looked at http://www.sure-trac.com/, which looks to be a nice trailer, but think it is a must to look at a number of different ones before pulling the trigger. I appears there are some subtle differences that can make a big difference.
Tony Hoffer said
Apr 9, 2014
I have the Challenger custom series trailer.. I pretty much like everything about it ...
If you do purchase a trailer with ramps... Make sure they dont store from the side.. If someone pulls in next to you you may not be able to get them out.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 9, 2014
Tony Hoffer wrote:
I have the Challenger custom series trailer.. I pretty much like everything about it ...
If you do purchase a trailer with ramps... Make sure they dont store from the side.. If someone pulls in next to you you may not be able to get them out.
And I can't park next to a curb. One of my ramps stores under the back of the beavertail and it is too low to pull out at a curb. I need to close that storage door before moving the car too, as it digs into the ground and bends the hinges. Mine is PJ. I bought a pair of Race Ramps to extend the too short ramps that came with mine. The headers on both the '66 Chevelle and '67 Camaro caught on the peak. My '38 sat too low for the oil pan and trans crossmember to clear without the Race Ramps. No issues with any now. I am looking at building longer ramps and having them store from the back, or along the sides.
Dave Seitz said
Apr 9, 2014
LIGHT WEIGHT RAMPS ARE A MUST!!! When you are hurting and the last thing you need to muscle is a set of 100# solid steel ramps light weight or attached ramps are a plus.
Dan Williams said
Apr 9, 2014
I have an H&H with side stored ramps and I wouldn't trade it for rear. Never seem to have a problem getting them out, most of the rear stored ones I see at shows are either full of road gunk, gravel etc or bent to heck from backing into things. Have had it for about twelve years and still like it. Had to do a bunch of rigging to get the Corvette on it, would look for something else if I planned on trailering it much. Seen tilts with remote controls, some are pretty slick.
69SSConv said
Apr 11, 2014
I am really leaning towards a tilt-bed, and would prefer the remote style, just not sure if I want to blow my budget for the remote? Or maybe a I pack away for an extra month or so, and get what I really want
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 11, 2014
69SSConv wrote:
I am really leaning towards a tilt-bed, and would prefer the remote style, just not sure if I want to blow my budget for the remote? Or maybe a I pack away for an extra month or so, and get what I really want
I'm looking for a trailer myself, tilt aluminum seems to be the best way to, but there more $$ the H&H above new is $4150 $70 for the tool box not sure what the winch go's for. Most tilts have the ram on them that lets the car down easy, very easy. You can become a trailer dealer and get a discount if you buy 3, I need one you need one if we had one more and could agree on a brand we could go together, food for thought ???
Lost in the 60s said
May 3, 2014
The used aluminum one is quite high for the appearance. It has been stored outside and left with salt to rust all the metal parts. Looks tough for a 3 year old trailer.
Zac Sales Near Fairmont has some really good prices on new H&H trailers.This one is steel and manual tilt but for the price of $2555, it's very attractive.
Any idea what the weight difference is between the aluminum and steel trailers is?
69SSConv said
May 4, 2014
When is ask an H&H dealer, he said for a tilt bed it was about 500lb?
dashboard said
May 4, 2014
Only 500 pounds; Mitch has a good point, $2500 compared to $4500 with only a 500 pound difference. If you only use it five to ten times a year, and if you have a decent tow vehicle you might never notice the 500 pounds, you could spend the other two grand on the next project.
I’ve never used a tilt trailer for a car though only ramps; maybe someone that has could chime in.
69SSConv said
May 5, 2014
Kevin,
You make a good point, balancing the number of times a year I would use it would take a while to recover the extra$$ spent for the aluminum. If all goes well will have a storage building completed this year that would allow me to store it inside, which would really help keep in nice condition for many years? Still not ready to jump yet, we will see how the next couple of months go?
Thanks all for the feedback
67ss said
May 5, 2014
I am not a big fan of that h&h design. Having the wheels off the ground sure looks like it puts a lot of stress on the pivot point and the ball on the truck.
Scott Parkhurst said
May 7, 2014
Why even play? Go big:
Derek69SS said
May 7, 2014
The airbagged trailer is cool, but at $12k I'd get myself a nice enclosed trailer with ramp-door and have $5k left over.
ron fuller said
May 8, 2014
I like the cool factor on the air lift. You can't take the money with ya.
CDNSS said
May 8, 2014
MY .02 I have both steel frame with alum deck 18' open and enclosed Haulmark 22' .and use them alot ....... Open , for sure alum ramps and side storage and dropped axles to keep trailer low for nice towing ........ ramps are nice as you can drive front wheels up onto ramp and work on car underneath..... great a t rack if you need to undo headers etc etc I like beaver tail ,no need for tilt IMO save your money for a good wind deflector on front to save the paint /windshield on car plus a basic 3500lb winch I can load my chevelle by myself using the winch no door dings opening into fenders etcetc Best tires you can afford
-- Edited by CDNSS on Thursday 8th of May 2014 01:14:08 PM
Looking for some feedback. I am looking at purchasing a open car hauler trailer. Considering a 18' steel tilt, or 20' steel beaver tail. I know there are pro's and con's to both. I plan on staying with 3500# axles, I have used a trailer with 5500# axles (beaver tail) and it sits pretty high, with short ramps, makes it tough with a low profile car, (got my daughters car hung up on the beavertail, with the muffler).
Tilt Bed - No ramps to handle, but seems that you would need a second person to lower the bed once I would drive on?
Beaver Tail - Ramps, but one person could load and unload.
I know there are other things to consider, looking for some advice so I buy the right trailer the first time. I know there are a number of us who have trailers, that have said, my next trailers would be....... or have......
Appreciate the feedback.
I have an 18' tilt bed from dressen custom trailer. Mine tilts all on its own with weight it does not use a jack like some. I like that fact but it is not very good for trying to drag a dead car up on to it. But I really like not having to deal with ramps. I don't know if they still make the style I have their web site does not seem to show it anymore, the one they show now has a jack to tilt the bed. http://www.dct-usa.com/
If you think you are going to be hauling some dead ones with a tilt bed I would get one that uses the jack to hold the bed. I have buddies with tilt trailers from johnson trailers in colfax WI. Have used them and few times and seem like nice trailers. http://www.johnsontrailerco.com/
As you found out with beaver tails things can scrap and hit under the car pretty easily.
I don't know much about trailers... but Loren I'm wondering if there is an optional hard wired remote control feature that can be added to extend a control so that you can use it while in the car on the trailer to lower the bed once the car is on it?
Thanks for the feedback, so far I have only looked at http://www.sure-trac.com/, which looks to be a nice trailer, but think it is a must to look at a number of different ones before pulling the trigger. I appears there are some subtle differences that can make a big difference.
102ironworks.weebly.com/index.html">102ironworks.weebly.com/index.html
If you do purchase a trailer with ramps... Make sure they dont store from the side.. If someone pulls in next to you you may not be able to get them out.
And I can't park next to a curb. One of my ramps stores under the back of the beavertail and it is too low to pull out at a curb. I need to close that storage door before moving the car too, as it digs into the ground and bends the hinges. Mine is PJ. I bought a pair of Race Ramps to extend the too short ramps that came with mine. The headers on both the '66 Chevelle and '67 Camaro caught on the peak. My '38 sat too low for the oil pan and trans crossmember to clear without the Race Ramps. No issues with any now. I am looking at building longer ramps and having them store from the back, or along the sides.
I am really leaning towards a tilt-bed, and would prefer the remote style, just not sure if I want to blow my budget for the remote? Or maybe a I pack away for an extra month or so, and get what I really want
Here ya go, this is a pretty good deal...
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/for/4413650004.html
One word....aluminum.
Loren, did you see this one? $4500 http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/rvs/4447156848.html
The used aluminum one is quite high for the appearance. It has been stored outside and left with salt to rust all the metal parts. Looks tough for a 3 year old trailer.
Zac Sales Near Fairmont has some really good prices on new H&H trailers.This one is steel and manual tilt but for the price of $2555, it's very attractive.
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/hvd/4448912158.html
http://www.zacssalesandservice.com/inventory
I’ve never used a tilt trailer for a car though only ramps; maybe someone that has could chime in.
Kevin,
You make a good point, balancing the number of times a year I would use it would take a while to recover the extra$$ spent for the aluminum. If all goes well will have a storage building completed this year that would allow me to store it inside, which would really help keep in nice condition for many years? Still not ready to jump yet, we will see how the next couple of months go?
Thanks all for the feedback
I am not a big fan of that h&h design. Having the wheels off the ground sure looks like it puts a lot of stress on the pivot point and the ball on the truck.
Why even play? Go big:
MY .02 I have both steel frame with alum deck 18' open and enclosed Haulmark 22' .and use them alot ....... Open , for sure alum ramps and side storage and dropped axles to keep trailer low for nice towing ........ ramps are nice as you can drive front wheels up onto ramp and work on car underneath..... great a t rack if you need to undo headers etc etc
I like beaver tail ,no need for tilt IMO save your money for a good wind deflector on front to save the paint /windshield on car plus a basic 3500lb winch I can load my chevelle by myself using the winch no door dings opening into fenders etcetc Best tires you can afford
-- Edited by CDNSS on Thursday 8th of May 2014 01:14:08 PM
How about this?