Just ordered all my parts to start my projects! I am going for it!
gearlube said
Apr 2, 2014
7" headlights HID 5000K
Thermo housing for the new EFI
EBC Red Brake pads
Aluminum radiator w/ electric fans
Halo lights
power windows kit w/ switch kit
Keyless entry w/ Door lock switch
Windows Mod to allow remote up/down
QuickFuel QFI EFI Throttle Body
Edelbrock 3607 sump kit
Dan Williams said
Apr 2, 2014
Cool stuff Tom! What radiator did you end up with? I went with a Dewitt. Real happy with the quality of this. Of course it is still sitting here, but looks great doing that!
gearlube said
Apr 2, 2014
Going with one from Auto City Classics. Kind of a no name brand but I know someone who got one. Plus I like the fan shroud. Dan how are your projects going? Going to be taking lots of video and pics when I do the carb because I will be one of the first people to have it....that's good and bad I guess but at least Quick Fuel knows their stuff.
John D said
Apr 2, 2014
Do your doors have grommets/accordion boots for the wires already?
I had to install them in "Blackie" when I put in power locks and it was somewhat of a bytch. The sheetmetal has "dimples" in it where the holes are centered, but you've still got to cut the holes...
Probably have plenty of time to get it done before we get any decent weather again. I'm hoping this isn't a prelude to another summer like last year...
Tony Hoffer said
Apr 2, 2014
Right on...
gearlube said
Apr 2, 2014
John D wrote:
Do your doors have grommets/accordion boots for the wires already?
I had to install them in "Blackie" when I put in power locks and it was somewhat of a bytch. The sheetmetal has "dimples" in it where the holes are centered, but you've still got to cut the holes...
John that looks excellent!! some boots come with the kit and I have done the holes in y old white 71 but it turned out like crap. Want to do it right this time. Where did you get that long extension? I need to pick one of those up for my collection. Will have to look on amazon.com. I will have to look for those dimples. Considering I am doing power locks and windows I will run all the wires at the same time....
gearlube said
Apr 2, 2014
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Probably have plenty of time to get it done before we get any decent weather again. I'm hoping this isn't a prelude to another summer like last year...
Agreed!! Mitch will stop by GSTA and say Hi! Who else is manning the booth with you? I am going to next Tuesday nights meeting.
Dan Williams said
Apr 2, 2014
gearlube wrote:
Going with one from Auto City Classics. Kind of a no name brand but I know someone who got one. Plus I like the fan shroud. Dan how are your projects going?
Slow but steady, parts are actually going back together instead of just comeing apart. Still waiting to get the carcass back form the body guy, but he is doing ok and it should be ready for the bigger chunks soon.
gearlube said
Apr 2, 2014
Dan steady is great! Better then yard art.
John D said
Apr 3, 2014
It's a 24" "hole saw arbor extension". That one is by Milwaukee, and fits their arbors (3/8" hex). I think Home Depot carries them. The trick is to find a standard hole saw that will work with your grommets. The hole saws are fractional - 3/4, 7/8, 1", 1-1/8, etc... the grommets seem to fall inbetween!
You'll find a lot of 12" extensions, but Milwaukee was the only one I found in 24". I use this thing nearly every day for drilling door frames & headers (for magnetic contacts) on card access doors.
gearlube said
Apr 3, 2014
Thanks John. Will stop Depot to check them out...Thanks for the warning on the grommets. May have to shave them down a little bit.
John D said
Apr 3, 2014
One important "tip/procedure" I didn't mention in the original reply...
Take an old bath towel, roll it up, and stuff it into the jamb area between the A-pillar and door before drilling. This way when the hole saw breaks through you won't jam forward and bugger up the edge of the door or the fender!! (Yeah, the towel will get wadded up on the holesaw, but it's a minor inconvenience compared to mangling the edge of the door/fender!)
Measure the inside diameter of the grommets (the "inner ring/groove") and get a holesaw(s) that is either right on, or the next step smaller. There's a bit of slop/wobble when cutting a hole with one of these, and the hole produced will be slightly larger than the dimension of the saw itself. (1" holesaw will make about a 1-1/16" hole...) If push comes to shove you can use a rat-tail file and open up a too-small hole a bit.
gearlube said
Apr 3, 2014
Thanks John. Great advice that will be used. When I used a hole saw in the past I kind of jog it to get it started. Agree?
John D said
Apr 3, 2014
Yeah... be careful when drilling the "pilot" hole - not much pressure, let the drill cut through - then coax the holesaw onto the material. The sheetmetal is really thin, and a new/sharp holesaw will go through it like butter.
Suggestion - go buy an inexpensive cookie sheet, or get a scrap/junk piece of a fender/hood and make several practice holes on the thin steel to get a feel for it.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 4, 2014
gearlube wrote:
Thanks John. Great advice that will be used. When I used a hole saw in the past I kind of jog it to get it started. Agree?
I usually hold the saw at a slight angle. Experience has shown that perfectly flat tends to keep the filings in the teeth and not cut as well and can cause chatter.
gearlube said
Apr 4, 2014
Since the door is an only cut once deal, will definitely practice on other metal. Great advice.
7" headlights HID 5000K
Thermo housing for the new EFI
EBC Red Brake pads
Aluminum radiator w/ electric fans
Halo lights
power windows kit w/ switch kit
Keyless entry w/ Door lock switch
Windows Mod to allow remote up/down
QuickFuel QFI EFI Throttle Body
Edelbrock 3607 sump kit
Cool stuff Tom! What radiator did you end up with? I went with a Dewitt. Real happy with the quality of this. Of course it is still sitting here, but looks great doing that!
Do your doors have grommets/accordion boots for the wires already?
I had to install them in "Blackie" when I put in power locks and it was somewhat of a bytch. The sheetmetal has "dimples" in it where the holes are centered, but you've still got to cut the holes...
Probably have plenty of time to get it done before we get any decent weather again. I'm hoping this isn't a prelude to another summer like last year...
John that looks excellent!! some boots come with the kit and I have done the holes in y old white 71 but it turned out like crap. Want to do it right this time. Where did you get that long extension? I need to pick one of those up for my collection. Will have to look on amazon.com. I will have to look for those dimples. Considering I am doing power locks and windows I will run all the wires at the same time....
Agreed!! Mitch will stop by GSTA and say Hi! Who else is manning the booth with you? I am going to next Tuesday nights meeting.
Slow but steady, parts are actually going back together instead of just comeing apart. Still waiting to get the carcass back form the body guy, but he is doing ok and it should be ready for the bigger chunks soon.
You'll find a lot of 12" extensions, but Milwaukee was the only one I found in 24". I use this thing nearly every day for drilling door frames & headers (for magnetic contacts) on card access doors.
One important "tip/procedure" I didn't mention in the original reply...
Take an old bath towel, roll it up, and stuff it into the jamb area between the A-pillar and door before drilling. This way when the hole saw breaks through you won't jam forward and bugger up the edge of the door or the fender!! (Yeah, the towel will get wadded up on the holesaw, but it's a minor inconvenience compared to mangling the edge of the door/fender!)
Measure the inside diameter of the grommets (the "inner ring/groove") and get a holesaw(s) that is either right on, or the next step smaller. There's a bit of slop/wobble when cutting a hole with one of these, and the hole produced will be slightly larger than the dimension of the saw itself. (1" holesaw will make about a 1-1/16" hole...) If push comes to shove you can use a rat-tail file and open up a too-small hole a bit.
Suggestion - go buy an inexpensive cookie sheet, or get a scrap/junk piece of a fender/hood and make several practice holes on the thin steel to get a feel for it.
I usually hold the saw at a slight angle. Experience has shown that perfectly flat tends to keep the filings in the teeth and not cut as well and can cause chatter.